People ask what the best city I have been to so far. Here are my thoughts on some of the places I have been so far.
Cities so far are:
NY, Reykavik, Oslo, Bergen, Stockholm, Karlstad, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Tallin, Riga, Ogre, Villenus, Prague, Chesky Krumlov, Dresden, Liepsig, Frankfurt, Darmstadt, Stuttgart, Munich, Berlin, Hamburg, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Groningen, Brussells, Paris.
The funnest cities I have been to are:
1. Prague/Chesky Krumlov. Cheap beer, not too touristy make for a fun environment
2. Munich. Expensive beer and touristy make for a fun environment
3. Krakow. Like Prague.
4. Copenhagen. Maybe.
The most overwelming/mind blowing places:
1. St. Petersburg. Very East-European. Police are corrupt.
2. Amsterdam. Traffic: People traffic; Drug traffic; Sex Traffic.
3. New York. A lot of energy.
4. Aushwitz near Krakow. Overwhelming.
The best hostels:
1. Elf Hostel in Prague. Except for a guy named Steve. Very cool place.
2. OK Hostel in Warsaw. Built in bar with "two for one" happy hour.
The worst hostels:
1. Pig Hostels in Amsterdam. Too many drugs in the Central Location. Bed bugs in Palace location.
2. Hostel in St. Petersburg. No hot water. No service. No common area.
Most dangerous cities:
1. St. Petersburg. Police are corrupt.
2. Poland. Train got broken into from Krakow to Prague. Supposedly police are corrupt here too, but I did not hear any direct examples. Half the people I met that went to Russia have some sort of shake down story to tell.
Most comfortable cities:
1. Oslo. Reminded me most of Vancouver
2. Helsinki. Relaxed city.
Coldest people:
1. Iceland. Though people in the tourism industry are not this way at all. Bus drivers and people on the street will stare through you and then angrily at you if you don't move along.
Friendliest people:
1. Small towns like Ogre
2. Copenhagen
3. Netherlands
Most expensive cities:
1. Reykavik
2. Paris
3. Oslo
Least expensive cities:
1. Prague
2. Krakow
Beautiful Cities:
1. Riga, Latvia. They have canals and greenspace down their main city centre which is very beatiful.
2. Copenhagen. Greenspace + canals.
3. Stockholm. Greenspace + canals. Though I found the buildings of Stockholm to be far too imposing: you'd fall into the canal trying to look at one.
Best beer:
1. Prague. Price is right
2. Brussells.
3. Germany - though I don't really like the Heffevisen (sp?)
Best tour:
1. Tour of Berlin. Even though the guide was a pedantic bigot, the tour was very informative.
Best food:
1. Brussels has quality.
2. Paris and New York have selection.
Best museums:
1. Con-Tiki museum in Oslo (about Thor Heyerdahl)
2. Metropolitan Museum of Art and History in New York
3. Porsche tour was cool too.
(note that I have not been going to alot of museums)
Tuesday, November 30, 2004
Paris notes
Random notes:
* Lots of fur coats on women. Old women are dressed in old but fashionable clothes.
* Men wear dark coats, scarves and dress shirts. Sweaters with diagonal zippers. In my T-Shirt and ski jacket outfit I am underdressed for Paris.
* People do actually walk around and ride around carrying bread sticks. I saw one person riding a scooter holding a breadstick in the middle with her mouth!
* The Louvre is huge. It has a beautiful campus towards the Champs.
* I was surprised to see streets named after U.S. Presidents (Wilson, Kennedy)
* Lots of people with small dogs. A couple poodles, but not with the fancy poodle haircuts.
* Expensive. Cappuchinos regularily sell for 4.50 euros.
* Minimal skyscrapers. There are two under construction. Other than those two the city is pretty much all classic looking.
* I can get by not speaking any English at all. My french is not that good, so often after asking a question people start to answer in english. I continue speaking in french though so I can get practice and get better at it. What is funny is I catch myself thinking in french - even though I am missing words - so I must not be thinking as well!
* Lots of motorcycles and scooters in Paris. More motorcycles and scooters than I have seen in any city to date. Motorcyclists and Scooterists have these leg coverings that they drape over their legs to keep themselves warm. These same coverings are used to cover the seat when the bike is parked. They are very aggressive and drive down the bicycle lanes, taxi lanes and between lanes to get where they are going. I have also seen alot of young men with older ladies on the back of their bikes. I am not sure if these guys are driving their moms around or not.
I have had a cold for the last couple days so I have been cooped up in a very small room on "Rue de Mauvais Garcons" :). Basically the room is just big enough to hold a window, sink and bed. The roof comes down towards the bottom of my bed so I can actually put my feet up on the 'ceiling' if I want. From the window I can see Notre Dame. The walls are covered with white wall paper with repeating patterns of 3 green and brown scenes of moose and deer near a lake with mountains in the background. Very Canadian looking.
Last night I went to a French restaurant and ordered the 15 euro menu (cheap compared to the more popular 26 euro menus around town): Included a nice Salade d'endive au bleu et noix, followed by a Poulet Basquaise and finished off with an Entrement Framboise.
Food here is very rich and my stomach is not really used to it. So far I prefer italian food - though I have had a really nice orange tart here a few nights ago.
* Lots of fur coats on women. Old women are dressed in old but fashionable clothes.
* Men wear dark coats, scarves and dress shirts. Sweaters with diagonal zippers. In my T-Shirt and ski jacket outfit I am underdressed for Paris.
* People do actually walk around and ride around carrying bread sticks. I saw one person riding a scooter holding a breadstick in the middle with her mouth!
* The Louvre is huge. It has a beautiful campus towards the Champs.
* I was surprised to see streets named after U.S. Presidents (Wilson, Kennedy)
* Lots of people with small dogs. A couple poodles, but not with the fancy poodle haircuts.
* Expensive. Cappuchinos regularily sell for 4.50 euros.
* Minimal skyscrapers. There are two under construction. Other than those two the city is pretty much all classic looking.
* I can get by not speaking any English at all. My french is not that good, so often after asking a question people start to answer in english. I continue speaking in french though so I can get practice and get better at it. What is funny is I catch myself thinking in french - even though I am missing words - so I must not be thinking as well!
* Lots of motorcycles and scooters in Paris. More motorcycles and scooters than I have seen in any city to date. Motorcyclists and Scooterists have these leg coverings that they drape over their legs to keep themselves warm. These same coverings are used to cover the seat when the bike is parked. They are very aggressive and drive down the bicycle lanes, taxi lanes and between lanes to get where they are going. I have also seen alot of young men with older ladies on the back of their bikes. I am not sure if these guys are driving their moms around or not.
I have had a cold for the last couple days so I have been cooped up in a very small room on "Rue de Mauvais Garcons" :). Basically the room is just big enough to hold a window, sink and bed. The roof comes down towards the bottom of my bed so I can actually put my feet up on the 'ceiling' if I want. From the window I can see Notre Dame. The walls are covered with white wall paper with repeating patterns of 3 green and brown scenes of moose and deer near a lake with mountains in the background. Very Canadian looking.
Last night I went to a French restaurant and ordered the 15 euro menu (cheap compared to the more popular 26 euro menus around town): Included a nice Salade d'endive au bleu et noix, followed by a Poulet Basquaise and finished off with an Entrement Framboise.
Food here is very rich and my stomach is not really used to it. So far I prefer italian food - though I have had a really nice orange tart here a few nights ago.
Belgian Beer and Food
Belgian beer and food is great. Overall it seems like the quality of the food served in Belgium is a notch higher than anywhere I have been so far (including France). I had one of the best tomato and cheese paninis in a small bar called Zebra in Brussells.
Of course I also sampled their fine beers, waffles and chocolates while I was there.
Of course I also sampled their fine beers, waffles and chocolates while I was there.
Drinking contest with the Dutch
I guess it was my fault.
Kaz came to visit me while I was in Amsterdam and we went to Groningen together.
Before heading to Groningen we went and saw a Sarah Mclaughlan concert in Amsterdam. Surprisingly there were no drugs smoked in the concert at all! In AMSTERDAM!
Actually I think the guy behind me had taken mushrooms. He was singing along badly throughout most of the concert. And by singing I mean he was making noices of varying pitch. For example - even when there were no lyrics being played - he would make noises when the musicians hit a high note: 'eeee' 'eeeee' he would say. He was a big guy in his early forties wearing a leather costume. At one point I did ask him to sing more quietly. He closed his eyes and nodded side to side sloppily like a baby or a drunk.
Fortunately he did walk around later in the concert during some of the more important songs (Building a mystery, your love, some comfort there, eddie..).
Anyway back to Groningen. I decided I need to learn to relax and I was looking for a bar for Kaz and I to go for a drink. I saw one that looked like a relaxing lounge and we went in. Turns out it was actually the waiting room for a movie theatre, but they served drinks. And it was relaxing.
We tried a couple of the local beers and then Kaz got us some "southern comforts" with some Pepsi as that is what she has back in Australia. Anyway, I was drinking my southern comfort straight and decided to mix a bit with the pepsi to try it that way...
The guy at the table next to me gave me a pretty disapproving look! I asked him what is problem was and he said.... "is your drink too strong?"
So I said: "Bah. I am just trying it the way Kaz suggested. What do you want to start a drinking contest or something???".
So that is how we got started. He and his friend Marlene had just seen a movie called the "Camel that cries" and we started talking about Dutch culture and then went through the drink menu together. Basically forming a bit of a drinking contest I suppose. We tried this kind of cold wine (bogger win?) and some Gins with different kinds of herbs, then some Guinness, Grolsh, etc.
We got to talking about Dutch culture and here is what I learned - from this small example:
* The Netherlands is actually the land of the rules. The Dutch love discussing the pros and cons about everything: "Why do it? Why not? Whaaatevvver..."
* To the Dutch, discussions about euthenasia are as important right now as any discussion about drugs or prostitution.
* As an example of rules: You cannot buy a house in Haarlem (a suburb of Amsterdam) unless you have a permit. You can only get a permit if you have a job in Haarlem (or are independently wealthy).
* Dutch generosity also has rules. If you visit a Dutch person they will often offer you a cookie. But you are only allowed one.
* What is typically Dutch is their generousity, but with 10 rules that need to be interpreted.
* The laws of the EU and how foreigners take advantage of what is available in the Netherlands is not part of their thinking. According to Marlene in England travel agents advertise: "55 euros to get drunk and laid in Amsterdam!"
* The dutch also have a Not in My Backyard kind of thinking. Drugs and Prostitution are ok - just in Amsterdam and not in my city!
What I found from this discussion is that the Dutch are very friendly in a gregarious way. I also found out that I am no good at drinking contests.
Kaz came to visit me while I was in Amsterdam and we went to Groningen together.
Before heading to Groningen we went and saw a Sarah Mclaughlan concert in Amsterdam. Surprisingly there were no drugs smoked in the concert at all! In AMSTERDAM!
Actually I think the guy behind me had taken mushrooms. He was singing along badly throughout most of the concert. And by singing I mean he was making noices of varying pitch. For example - even when there were no lyrics being played - he would make noises when the musicians hit a high note: 'eeee' 'eeeee' he would say. He was a big guy in his early forties wearing a leather costume. At one point I did ask him to sing more quietly. He closed his eyes and nodded side to side sloppily like a baby or a drunk.
Fortunately he did walk around later in the concert during some of the more important songs (Building a mystery, your love, some comfort there, eddie..).
Anyway back to Groningen. I decided I need to learn to relax and I was looking for a bar for Kaz and I to go for a drink. I saw one that looked like a relaxing lounge and we went in. Turns out it was actually the waiting room for a movie theatre, but they served drinks. And it was relaxing.
We tried a couple of the local beers and then Kaz got us some "southern comforts" with some Pepsi as that is what she has back in Australia. Anyway, I was drinking my southern comfort straight and decided to mix a bit with the pepsi to try it that way...
The guy at the table next to me gave me a pretty disapproving look! I asked him what is problem was and he said.... "is your drink too strong?"
So I said: "Bah. I am just trying it the way Kaz suggested. What do you want to start a drinking contest or something???".
So that is how we got started. He and his friend Marlene had just seen a movie called the "Camel that cries" and we started talking about Dutch culture and then went through the drink menu together. Basically forming a bit of a drinking contest I suppose. We tried this kind of cold wine (bogger win?) and some Gins with different kinds of herbs, then some Guinness, Grolsh, etc.
We got to talking about Dutch culture and here is what I learned - from this small example:
* The Netherlands is actually the land of the rules. The Dutch love discussing the pros and cons about everything: "Why do it? Why not? Whaaatevvver..."
* To the Dutch, discussions about euthenasia are as important right now as any discussion about drugs or prostitution.
* As an example of rules: You cannot buy a house in Haarlem (a suburb of Amsterdam) unless you have a permit. You can only get a permit if you have a job in Haarlem (or are independently wealthy).
* Dutch generosity also has rules. If you visit a Dutch person they will often offer you a cookie. But you are only allowed one.
* What is typically Dutch is their generousity, but with 10 rules that need to be interpreted.
* The laws of the EU and how foreigners take advantage of what is available in the Netherlands is not part of their thinking. According to Marlene in England travel agents advertise: "55 euros to get drunk and laid in Amsterdam!"
* The dutch also have a Not in My Backyard kind of thinking. Drugs and Prostitution are ok - just in Amsterdam and not in my city!
What I found from this discussion is that the Dutch are very friendly in a gregarious way. I also found out that I am no good at drinking contests.
When Sex becomes work
When I was in the Prostitution Information Centre there was a book written by a prostitute called "When Sex Becomes Work". Like the general bias of the PIC, it was supportive of legalized prostitution.
The book had some topics that I would never of thought of:
1. Hustling techniques. When should you do it and when not? The author refers to one prostitute who would charge a customer for each piece of clothing she took off and she would wear very complicated outfits to maximize her yield.
2. How to look attractive in the window. Not too close. Find a pose that suits you...
3. During sex - keeping it professional. Do not do things that turn you on. Suggestion to refuse clients who would turn you on outside of work.
4. What to do when you see people you know from your window.
The book had some topics that I would never of thought of:
1. Hustling techniques. When should you do it and when not? The author refers to one prostitute who would charge a customer for each piece of clothing she took off and she would wear very complicated outfits to maximize her yield.
2. How to look attractive in the window. Not too close. Find a pose that suits you...
3. During sex - keeping it professional. Do not do things that turn you on. Suggestion to refuse clients who would turn you on outside of work.
4. What to do when you see people you know from your window.
Prostitution in Amsterdam
Prostitution is legal in Amsterdam. My guess is that there are about 200 to 400 little windows that have women sitting in them along and between three streets in Amsterdam near Centraal Station.
The women are all dressed in lingerie and encourage people to come visit. Most windows are at ground level and as you walk by the will often open their doors and invite you to come in. From the street you can see that behind the sitting area they have a small bed and mirror where they bring their clients after closing the curtains.
What surprised me was that there was no nudity or particularily explicit gestures at all. I expect that they are required to conform to some sort of standardized practices.
By reading my guidebook and by also visiting the prostitution information centre I found out that:
* the women rent the rooms for about 200 Euros per shift. The going rate is 50 euros for 20 minutes for a standard service. Extra charges are levied for anything else.
* the rooms normally have alarm systems equipped. Because it is legal, prostitutes will call the police if there is trouble and not a pimp.
* one of Peter's friends apparently was going crazy one night and visited 4 prostitutes (180 euros. He got a discount from one). At the end he was apparently wanting to go and "get one so I can punch her in the face".
This was pretty shocking. I wondered if violence was a big issue in the Red Light District. I am not sure it is anymore. When I asked the lady in the Prostitution Information Centre about it she said violence was not a big issue.
She pointed out that:
1. it is all done in a very public way, so there is less opportunity
2. there is high security in the Red Light District, patrolled by police and video cameras
3. Consider "The Pickton situation you have in Vancouver. That would not happen here." She was originally from Toronto, but I was still surprised that she had heard about the Pickton pig farm.
The mention about the Pickton pig farm is pretty shocking. Is she right?
* Amsterdam is not opening up any more windows in the Red Light District. The windows currently there are in some strange places. Flanking a daycare centre, going around the back of a big church.
The women are all dressed in lingerie and encourage people to come visit. Most windows are at ground level and as you walk by the will often open their doors and invite you to come in. From the street you can see that behind the sitting area they have a small bed and mirror where they bring their clients after closing the curtains.
What surprised me was that there was no nudity or particularily explicit gestures at all. I expect that they are required to conform to some sort of standardized practices.
By reading my guidebook and by also visiting the prostitution information centre I found out that:
* the women rent the rooms for about 200 Euros per shift. The going rate is 50 euros for 20 minutes for a standard service. Extra charges are levied for anything else.
* the rooms normally have alarm systems equipped. Because it is legal, prostitutes will call the police if there is trouble and not a pimp.
* one of Peter's friends apparently was going crazy one night and visited 4 prostitutes (180 euros. He got a discount from one). At the end he was apparently wanting to go and "get one so I can punch her in the face".
This was pretty shocking. I wondered if violence was a big issue in the Red Light District. I am not sure it is anymore. When I asked the lady in the Prostitution Information Centre about it she said violence was not a big issue.
She pointed out that:
1. it is all done in a very public way, so there is less opportunity
2. there is high security in the Red Light District, patrolled by police and video cameras
3. Consider "The Pickton situation you have in Vancouver. That would not happen here." She was originally from Toronto, but I was still surprised that she had heard about the Pickton pig farm.
The mention about the Pickton pig farm is pretty shocking. Is she right?
* Amsterdam is not opening up any more windows in the Red Light District. The windows currently there are in some strange places. Flanking a daycare centre, going around the back of a big church.
Drugs in Amsterdam
Turns out that drugs are not even legal in Amsterdam. They are 'tolerated' here. I don't know how this works with the police - i.e. who decides what is appropriate or not but things are pretty standardized.
If a store is called a "Cafe", then they sell coffee.
If it is a "Coffee Shop" they sell pot as well as coffee. Different coffee shops have different menus of pot, hash and/or mushrooms. A good place will have about 10 different types of pot, 5 types of hash and about 5 types of mushrooms. Different places will have different selections or strains of pot. Most sell in 5 gram bags and will also sell pre-rolled joints.
Pot use is very open within the shops and the smell eminating outdoors. I think that you could spend alot of time in Amsterdam checking out all of the different varieties of pot each day. What is interesting is how legitimate and reputable it appears. You are very unlikely to get ripped off or provided with bad drugs because by maintaining such a visible presence the shops are held accountable.
On the street corners there are drug dealers offering cocaine. This surprised me because normally drug dealers usually offer softer drugs (e.g. if you walk in Gastown, you will often hear hushed offers for hash) first and then only the persistent dealers would then offer other things like cocaine. But I suppose when the 'legitimate' market is already providing pot and hash, the dealers have to move up the food chain. From what I have heard the cocaine is not very good.
I was curious to find out if their policy of 'toleration' reduces or encourage use. I was interested to know if by legalizing the marijuana if Dutch people were more or less hooked on it than North Americans. The Cannibis College had statistics that showed that experimentation rates were similar between the U.S. and the Dutch, but that chronic use was higher in the U.S.
I don't know if I really believe these statistics because there was little information posted about the source of their information. What I do know is that the Dutch are not all pot smokers and pot consumption is looked down on. The Dutch also have mixed feelings about the hordes of drug-tourists exploiting one aspect of their society.
At the Cannabis College I also read that there has not been any association between pot use and cancer, but there is a 6 fold increase in the amount of tar that you can inhale when compared to a cigarette of the same weight.
Amsterdam is interesting because it is a relatively safe place to experiment and the city is itself is a bit of an experiment.
If a store is called a "Cafe", then they sell coffee.
If it is a "Coffee Shop" they sell pot as well as coffee. Different coffee shops have different menus of pot, hash and/or mushrooms. A good place will have about 10 different types of pot, 5 types of hash and about 5 types of mushrooms. Different places will have different selections or strains of pot. Most sell in 5 gram bags and will also sell pre-rolled joints.
Pot use is very open within the shops and the smell eminating outdoors. I think that you could spend alot of time in Amsterdam checking out all of the different varieties of pot each day. What is interesting is how legitimate and reputable it appears. You are very unlikely to get ripped off or provided with bad drugs because by maintaining such a visible presence the shops are held accountable.
On the street corners there are drug dealers offering cocaine. This surprised me because normally drug dealers usually offer softer drugs (e.g. if you walk in Gastown, you will often hear hushed offers for hash) first and then only the persistent dealers would then offer other things like cocaine. But I suppose when the 'legitimate' market is already providing pot and hash, the dealers have to move up the food chain. From what I have heard the cocaine is not very good.
I was curious to find out if their policy of 'toleration' reduces or encourage use. I was interested to know if by legalizing the marijuana if Dutch people were more or less hooked on it than North Americans. The Cannibis College had statistics that showed that experimentation rates were similar between the U.S. and the Dutch, but that chronic use was higher in the U.S.
I don't know if I really believe these statistics because there was little information posted about the source of their information. What I do know is that the Dutch are not all pot smokers and pot consumption is looked down on. The Dutch also have mixed feelings about the hordes of drug-tourists exploiting one aspect of their society.
At the Cannabis College I also read that there has not been any association between pot use and cancer, but there is a 6 fold increase in the amount of tar that you can inhale when compared to a cigarette of the same weight.
Amsterdam is interesting because it is a relatively safe place to experiment and the city is itself is a bit of an experiment.
Scene in an Amsterdam Hostel
The situation:
It is close to midnight. Sally and Sean are going to bed.
The room has three bunks. Sean is on the bottom bunk near the window. Sally is on the top. The bunk across the room is empty. The bunk closest to the door has a guy who has been passed out since 5:30 pm sleeping there. What is a disconcerting is that he is completly un-responsive and has moved the garbage can close to his head so that he can puke into it.
Earlier Sally has told Sean that the day prior earlier there were Mexicans who had been dividing up a huge pile of marijuana on one of the beds. Also someone told her that the night before there was a girl laying in the middle of the room screaming and laughing all night tripping out on mushrooms.
... Peter enters the room ...
Peter (to comatose): "Hey man are you alright? You want to go out?"
Comatose: no response
Peter: "Hi, where are you from?"
Sally: "Do you think we should get him some water?"
Peter (to comotose): "DO YOU WANT SOME WATER?" (no response)
Peter: "He is ok. He bought three joints and smoked one too fast. Amateur. Thing is he was talking shit about being able to smoke all three."
Sally: "Israel"
Peter: "Dundee"
Peter (Staggers back hand in front of his body): "Israel, wow, Israel, that is too intense. I've never met someone from Israel. Wow. Israel? Israel?. I am going to freak out!"
Sally: "So are you on pot as well?"
Peter: "No". Jumps onto his bed.
Peter: "I'm not sure what I have been doing. I have done some cocaine and maybe some ecstacy. I can't remember.". Peter reaches into his pocket to grab a baggie. Baggie flies up into the air and down behind the bed. "Fuck. There goes my ecstacy, I cannot remember if I took some of that or not".
Sally: "So you are doing cocaine? That is pretty hardcore?"
Peter: "Yeah. I do it on weekends at home and while I am here why not?"
Sally: "Does the rest of your group do cocaine?"
Peter: "Nah. I am the only one. The rest are on pot or booze."
Sally: "Can I see the cocaine?"
Peter: "It isn't very good. I tested the first batch and the second batch I was a bit drunk at the time. I put some on my gums but to be honest I didn't really test it at all".
Peter jumps off his bed and shows Sally the cocaine: A bit of white powder wrapped in a small piece of white paper.
Peter then clears off a side table and puts the cocaine on the table. He then starts making a line with it using his key card.
Sally: "You don't have to do that now"
Peter: "Don't worry. It's ok. It's not that good anyway"
Sally takes out video camera and films the cocaine and Peter together.
Peter then snorts cocaine up his nose.
Sally: "How does that feel?"
Peter: "Ok"
Peter jumps back onto bed.
Sally: "So did you visit the Red Light district?"
Peter: "Yeah."
Sally: "Did you visit any of the women?"
Peter: "Getting personal no?...ok...Yeah I did"
Sally: "What did you do?
Peter: "I visited two."
Sally: "Two! How much did that cost?
Peter: "50 euros each. With the cocaine that was 200 euros tonight! Fuck I can't keep spending that kind of money."
Peter: "Actually I left my watch at the first hooker's. At first I thought it was stolen but I remembered and she was real nice about giving it back."
Sally: "So what was the experience it like?"
Peter: "Ok. Alright. You are in Amsterdam you have to do it for a larf"
Peter: "Actually...God... Nah... I cannot say.... Well actually I didn't 'finish' either time"
Peter: "It was pretty disappointing actually. The interaction is pretty shallow - not good. The conversation and interaction we are having right now is much better and open than the one with the prostitutes."
Sally: "So therefore, all you have to do is cocaine and you can get this better kind of interaction then."
Peter: "noh...that's not why I do it"
Peter: (slyly) "ok. yeah. it is".
... later, Peter stands up and puts his head through ceiling tiles ...
... next morning Sally gets out of Peter's bunk and heads home to Israel ...
... next day ...
Peter and friend:
Friend: "Nice tattoo"
Peter: "My mom was so upset when she saw it. She was almost crying"
Friend: "What if she found out about the cocaine"
Peter: "Someone already told her about the weekends"
Peter: "Well if she tries to kick me out, I will just tell her I'll quit uni"
It is close to midnight. Sally and Sean are going to bed.
The room has three bunks. Sean is on the bottom bunk near the window. Sally is on the top. The bunk across the room is empty. The bunk closest to the door has a guy who has been passed out since 5:30 pm sleeping there. What is a disconcerting is that he is completly un-responsive and has moved the garbage can close to his head so that he can puke into it.
Earlier Sally has told Sean that the day prior earlier there were Mexicans who had been dividing up a huge pile of marijuana on one of the beds. Also someone told her that the night before there was a girl laying in the middle of the room screaming and laughing all night tripping out on mushrooms.
... Peter enters the room ...
Peter (to comatose): "Hey man are you alright? You want to go out?"
Comatose: no response
Peter: "Hi, where are you from?"
Sally: "Do you think we should get him some water?"
Peter (to comotose): "DO YOU WANT SOME WATER?" (no response)
Peter: "He is ok. He bought three joints and smoked one too fast. Amateur. Thing is he was talking shit about being able to smoke all three."
Sally: "Israel"
Peter: "Dundee"
Peter (Staggers back hand in front of his body): "Israel, wow, Israel, that is too intense. I've never met someone from Israel. Wow. Israel? Israel?. I am going to freak out!"
Sally: "So are you on pot as well?"
Peter: "No". Jumps onto his bed.
Peter: "I'm not sure what I have been doing. I have done some cocaine and maybe some ecstacy. I can't remember.". Peter reaches into his pocket to grab a baggie. Baggie flies up into the air and down behind the bed. "Fuck. There goes my ecstacy, I cannot remember if I took some of that or not".
Sally: "So you are doing cocaine? That is pretty hardcore?"
Peter: "Yeah. I do it on weekends at home and while I am here why not?"
Sally: "Does the rest of your group do cocaine?"
Peter: "Nah. I am the only one. The rest are on pot or booze."
Sally: "Can I see the cocaine?"
Peter: "It isn't very good. I tested the first batch and the second batch I was a bit drunk at the time. I put some on my gums but to be honest I didn't really test it at all".
Peter jumps off his bed and shows Sally the cocaine: A bit of white powder wrapped in a small piece of white paper.
Peter then clears off a side table and puts the cocaine on the table. He then starts making a line with it using his key card.
Sally: "You don't have to do that now"
Peter: "Don't worry. It's ok. It's not that good anyway"
Sally takes out video camera and films the cocaine and Peter together.
Peter then snorts cocaine up his nose.
Sally: "How does that feel?"
Peter: "Ok"
Peter jumps back onto bed.
Sally: "So did you visit the Red Light district?"
Peter: "Yeah."
Sally: "Did you visit any of the women?"
Peter: "Getting personal no?...ok...Yeah I did"
Sally: "What did you do?
Peter: "I visited two."
Sally: "Two! How much did that cost?
Peter: "50 euros each. With the cocaine that was 200 euros tonight! Fuck I can't keep spending that kind of money."
Peter: "Actually I left my watch at the first hooker's. At first I thought it was stolen but I remembered and she was real nice about giving it back."
Sally: "So what was the experience it like?"
Peter: "Ok. Alright. You are in Amsterdam you have to do it for a larf"
Peter: "Actually...God... Nah... I cannot say.... Well actually I didn't 'finish' either time"
Peter: "It was pretty disappointing actually. The interaction is pretty shallow - not good. The conversation and interaction we are having right now is much better and open than the one with the prostitutes."
Sally: "So therefore, all you have to do is cocaine and you can get this better kind of interaction then."
Peter: "noh...that's not why I do it"
Peter: (slyly) "ok. yeah. it is".
... later, Peter stands up and puts his head through ceiling tiles ...
... next morning Sally gets out of Peter's bunk and heads home to Israel ...
... next day ...
Peter and friend:
Friend: "Nice tattoo"
Peter: "My mom was so upset when she saw it. She was almost crying"
Friend: "What if she found out about the cocaine"
Peter: "Someone already told her about the weekends"
Peter: "Well if she tries to kick me out, I will just tell her I'll quit uni"
Anne Frank House
While in Warsaw, I read that Auschwitz was near Krakow and I thought I should do some sort of thinking or research prior to visiting there. What I did was buy a copy of Anne Frank's diary and started reading it there.
After seeing Auschwitz, I was done with 'holocaust tourism' but as I bought the book I forced myself to finish it anyway.
As it turns out the book is not what I expected. The book was far more about the inner thoughts and feelings about a mature and maturing girl, her relationship with her father, her mother, her sister, another woman and her feelings about boys. The book is very interesting for me as it is the only book I can recall reading (I don't rember too much about the Judy Blume books anymore) that dealt so intensely regarding the relationship between women, their mothers and other women.
What I had expected was that the book would be about suffering and fear of Jews during the holocaust.
So when I got to Amsterdam I visited the Ann Frank Haus which has preserved the house that Ann Frank and her family had stayed in.
It was like walking into the book: They use quotes from the book throughout each of the rooms and also have computer terminals where practically every line from the book seems cross referenced. They also have a very useful 3d representation of the house which makes it easier to visualize their hiding place in reference to the rest of the house.
What I did not appreciate about the display is that they had biased the presentation to be about the holocaust and had marginalized the core of the book: Ann Frank's relationships and feelings with those close to her.
For example, in Anne Frank's diary she states things like that she could never love her mother, that she would never love her mother and that her mother does not behave as Anne would behave if she was to be a good mother! Anne mentions one interaction where her mother wants to read prayers with Anne, but Anne refuses to read her prayers with her mother even though she knows this will hurt her mother deeply - but Anne does not want to pretend that she loves her mother. These are pretty serious things to be thinking and writing, so in the Museum where the show a video clip of Otto Frank saying that after he read the diary for the first time that: "I was surprised at the seriousness and depth of her feelings" I interpret this to refer to her feelings towards her mother. However the way this is presented in the museum is that Otto's quote has something to do with Anne's feelings about the holocaust!
I discussed this with an Israeli girl I met in the hostel that night. Her point was that the purpose of the museum was to educate about the holocaust and not Anne Frank.
Anyway both the museum and the book are very good in their own -different- ways.
After seeing Auschwitz, I was done with 'holocaust tourism' but as I bought the book I forced myself to finish it anyway.
As it turns out the book is not what I expected. The book was far more about the inner thoughts and feelings about a mature and maturing girl, her relationship with her father, her mother, her sister, another woman and her feelings about boys. The book is very interesting for me as it is the only book I can recall reading (I don't rember too much about the Judy Blume books anymore) that dealt so intensely regarding the relationship between women, their mothers and other women.
What I had expected was that the book would be about suffering and fear of Jews during the holocaust.
So when I got to Amsterdam I visited the Ann Frank Haus which has preserved the house that Ann Frank and her family had stayed in.
It was like walking into the book: They use quotes from the book throughout each of the rooms and also have computer terminals where practically every line from the book seems cross referenced. They also have a very useful 3d representation of the house which makes it easier to visualize their hiding place in reference to the rest of the house.
What I did not appreciate about the display is that they had biased the presentation to be about the holocaust and had marginalized the core of the book: Ann Frank's relationships and feelings with those close to her.
For example, in Anne Frank's diary she states things like that she could never love her mother, that she would never love her mother and that her mother does not behave as Anne would behave if she was to be a good mother! Anne mentions one interaction where her mother wants to read prayers with Anne, but Anne refuses to read her prayers with her mother even though she knows this will hurt her mother deeply - but Anne does not want to pretend that she loves her mother. These are pretty serious things to be thinking and writing, so in the Museum where the show a video clip of Otto Frank saying that after he read the diary for the first time that: "I was surprised at the seriousness and depth of her feelings" I interpret this to refer to her feelings towards her mother. However the way this is presented in the museum is that Otto's quote has something to do with Anne's feelings about the holocaust!
I discussed this with an Israeli girl I met in the hostel that night. Her point was that the purpose of the museum was to educate about the holocaust and not Anne Frank.
Anyway both the museum and the book are very good in their own -different- ways.
Music and travel
I have noticed that I am far more receptive to music while travelling. Right now in this web cafe they are playing REM 'Losing my Religion' and it really resonates more. I wonder if it is because I am generally more receptive or if there is some other reason.
Junk food and travel burnout
I am eating alot of junk food, candy and not getting enough sleep. I am going to do better on keeping myself self-aware of these things otherwise this tour will turn into a 'Zombie tour of Europe'.
What I do miss is doing some sort of exercise. I actually did some jogging when I started in New York, but it is a whole lot of hassle and uses up precious clean clothes. After my wallet, my passport and camera - the thing I defend most in my pack are clean clothes. This is going to sound a bit weird or paranoid, but there have been at least a couple times that I have left my room and thought to myself: "I hope no one takes my clean clothes!" Take anything else. Just leave me a clean pair of pants!
My latest scheme is to try and find a pool and do swimming because it dirties the least amount of clothes. Hmm...If I could find a nudie pool - even better. I haven't done this yet though. I am also looking foreward to January where I want to do some snowboarding in the Alps.
What I do miss is doing some sort of exercise. I actually did some jogging when I started in New York, but it is a whole lot of hassle and uses up precious clean clothes. After my wallet, my passport and camera - the thing I defend most in my pack are clean clothes. This is going to sound a bit weird or paranoid, but there have been at least a couple times that I have left my room and thought to myself: "I hope no one takes my clean clothes!" Take anything else. Just leave me a clean pair of pants!
My latest scheme is to try and find a pool and do swimming because it dirties the least amount of clothes. Hmm...If I could find a nudie pool - even better. I haven't done this yet though. I am also looking foreward to January where I want to do some snowboarding in the Alps.
first times
Iceland is expensive
New York is smokey
Oslo has cobblestones
Russians don't speak English
Swedish people ride alot of bicycles
Amsterdam has a red light district
My associations above are subjective because the fact that I made the statement is because that is the first place I encountered it on my particular journey and not because it is the only place that it is true.
For example, because I went to Iceland I was shocked to see how expensive everything was. In fact towards the end of my visit in Iceland I had become a bit angry about it and spent the last couple days eating cheese and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is interesting is that when I got to Norway - where things cost about the same - I had accepted the situation completely and did not really notice or concern myself too much about it.
Where this comes up is when I meet another traveller who asks me what I thought about Norway - usually I mention that it reminds me of B.C. being a west coast country and a place that I think has lots of things to do... Often, the first thing they mention are the high prices.
When I started writing this blog it was easier to compare everything relative to B.C. This is harder as I learn more on my journey.
The point is that your experiences will differ because your journey will be different. Also I don't really notice or worry anymore if things are expensive, smokey, cobblestoney, foreigny, cycly, or naughty.
New York is smokey
Oslo has cobblestones
Russians don't speak English
Swedish people ride alot of bicycles
Amsterdam has a red light district
My associations above are subjective because the fact that I made the statement is because that is the first place I encountered it on my particular journey and not because it is the only place that it is true.
For example, because I went to Iceland I was shocked to see how expensive everything was. In fact towards the end of my visit in Iceland I had become a bit angry about it and spent the last couple days eating cheese and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is interesting is that when I got to Norway - where things cost about the same - I had accepted the situation completely and did not really notice or concern myself too much about it.
Where this comes up is when I meet another traveller who asks me what I thought about Norway - usually I mention that it reminds me of B.C. being a west coast country and a place that I think has lots of things to do... Often, the first thing they mention are the high prices.
When I started writing this blog it was easier to compare everything relative to B.C. This is harder as I learn more on my journey.
The point is that your experiences will differ because your journey will be different. Also I don't really notice or worry anymore if things are expensive, smokey, cobblestoney, foreigny, cycly, or naughty.
Reggae Christmas in Amsterdam?
On my second day in Amsterdam I went and had a walk around the main centre (called the Dam). Some bandstands had been setup and there were these guys dressed in colourful clothes and had fake black hair and had their faces painted black wearing red lipstick. They were dancing around and singing christmas songs. Later they were rappelling and bouncing off tall buildings in the square as well.
This was pretty surprising because it looked a bit reminicent of Amos and Andy and therefore something unlikely to be seen in North America. Because of the Jamaican theme of many of the coffee shops I actually thought at first that this was a Reggae Christmas!
There were hundreds of families gathering around a parade route and I joined in the wait. While waiting there I talked to a couple Dutch people and found out that - first off to the Dutch I look Norweigian! - and secondly that they celebrate St. Nicolas's day on Dec 6 and that St. Nicolas has a main black helper called Pieter. In their tradition, St. Nicolas rides a white horse and has hundreds of black helpers (like our 'elves') who make the presents, climb up the houses and deliver presents down the chimmney. Pieter is by far the most popular character and is featured in many storefronts and his name is called out continuously by the kids during the parade. Guys who deliver presents are pretty popular.
From what I can gather, originally the 'elves' where Moorish slaves and if you were good, you would be given presents, but if you were bad you would be taken away by the Moors. The current story has been updated so that they are black - not because they are Moors - but because they are covered in soot.
This was pretty surprising because it looked a bit reminicent of Amos and Andy and therefore something unlikely to be seen in North America. Because of the Jamaican theme of many of the coffee shops I actually thought at first that this was a Reggae Christmas!
There were hundreds of families gathering around a parade route and I joined in the wait. While waiting there I talked to a couple Dutch people and found out that - first off to the Dutch I look Norweigian! - and secondly that they celebrate St. Nicolas's day on Dec 6 and that St. Nicolas has a main black helper called Pieter. In their tradition, St. Nicolas rides a white horse and has hundreds of black helpers (like our 'elves') who make the presents, climb up the houses and deliver presents down the chimmney. Pieter is by far the most popular character and is featured in many storefronts and his name is called out continuously by the kids during the parade. Guys who deliver presents are pretty popular.
From what I can gather, originally the 'elves' where Moorish slaves and if you were good, you would be given presents, but if you were bad you would be taken away by the Moors. The current story has been updated so that they are black - not because they are Moors - but because they are covered in soot.
Friday, November 26, 2004
Now in Paris
Took a high speed train to Paris. The train was fast - as we rode next to the highway it reminded me of being on my motorcycle - Then I realized we were going so much faster than that. I think this was the fastest I have travelled on land. I then imagined the fear I would have going that fast on a highway.
This afternoon, I walked past the Louvre, down the Champs D'Elysee with Lemon Crêpe in hand towards the Arc de Triomphe while occasionally checking out the Eiffel Tower through the fog on my left.
Paris is big and expensive. Beautiful because it has canals, greenspace, architecture and art.
This afternoon, I walked past the Louvre, down the Champs D'Elysee with Lemon Crêpe in hand towards the Arc de Triomphe while occasionally checking out the Eiffel Tower through the fog on my left.
Paris is big and expensive. Beautiful because it has canals, greenspace, architecture and art.
Monday, November 22, 2004
now in tintin-land
Now in Brussells. Need to find better pc to post more details. this one is very bad.
Friday, November 19, 2004
Still in Amsterdam, Not in gutter
In case you are wondering why I have not posted lately: I am not in a drug induced haze in a gutter somewhere. Just been busy and haven't had time to post.
I have been to the Vincent Van Gogh museam, the Electric LadyLand, Ann Frank Haus. I also saw Sarah McLaughlan (from Vancouver) play here in Amsterdam.
I will comment in a few days about my roommates in the hostel, drugs, prostitution and Sarah's concert.
I have been to the Vincent Van Gogh museam, the Electric LadyLand, Ann Frank Haus. I also saw Sarah McLaughlan (from Vancouver) play here in Amsterdam.
I will comment in a few days about my roommates in the hostel, drugs, prostitution and Sarah's concert.
Sunday, November 14, 2004
Sat. night in Amsterdam
I walked around a little last night before going to bed. The area around my hostel has lots of 'coffee bars' and lots of stoned people walking around. It is kind of strange and surprising to be walking around in a stoned city.
Continuing east, I noticed a crowd of people jamming a small alley. I had found the red light district. Here there are prostitutes that have rented out small display windows, with a bed in behind who offer themselves for 50 euros. On the other side of the glass are groups of mostly English men - 99% seem to just be leering, though there was one guy that I managed to pass twice in different parts who was trying to negotiate something for 35 euros. This part of the city was far more crowded and, instead of the stoned vibe, had more of a drunken circus-show vibe.
Here is what my menu from the hostel breakfast had to say:
Tips from LaCana:
* Be careful when mixing alcohol and smoking
* Space cake can be heavy if you lack experience
* Don't mix alcohol and mushrooms
* If you feel sick or strange tell the staff and they will help you.
The same was also repeated in Italian or Spanish.
Continuing east, I noticed a crowd of people jamming a small alley. I had found the red light district. Here there are prostitutes that have rented out small display windows, with a bed in behind who offer themselves for 50 euros. On the other side of the glass are groups of mostly English men - 99% seem to just be leering, though there was one guy that I managed to pass twice in different parts who was trying to negotiate something for 35 euros. This part of the city was far more crowded and, instead of the stoned vibe, had more of a drunken circus-show vibe.
Here is what my menu from the hostel breakfast had to say:
Tips from LaCana:
* Be careful when mixing alcohol and smoking
* Space cake can be heavy if you lack experience
* Don't mix alcohol and mushrooms
* If you feel sick or strange tell the staff and they will help you.
The same was also repeated in Italian or Spanish.
Saturday, November 13, 2004
Another Pub Crawl, now in Amsterdam
Before I said I hope we don't buy rounds again... Well Phil, Richard, Mark and I and two girls (Sarah and Marie) we met at the hostel were out until around 6AM last night again. It's pretty tough because the Hostel really kicks you out of your rooms at 10AM in the morning.
So I spent the day travelling and napping my way to Amsterdam. I have been here about 1 hour now. So far a french guy helped me find a full hostel and wanted to show me another. I found one on my own.
The hostel is called 'La Canna' and the clerk at the desk was smoking a big doobie and selling pipes and other drug paraphenalia when I got in. It is midnight here so there is alot of squinty eyed people, pot smelling cafes and munchy stores open.
I am taking it easy tonight.
So I spent the day travelling and napping my way to Amsterdam. I have been here about 1 hour now. So far a french guy helped me find a full hostel and wanted to show me another. I found one on my own.
The hostel is called 'La Canna' and the clerk at the desk was smoking a big doobie and selling pipes and other drug paraphenalia when I got in. It is midnight here so there is alot of squinty eyed people, pot smelling cafes and munchy stores open.
I am taking it easy tonight.
Friday, November 12, 2004
Copenhagen is very nice
After Berlin, I made a quick stop in Hamburg and pressed on to Copenhagen. Copenhagen is very nice and the people here for the most part are very friendly. Because it is north of Germany, I expected it to have some sort of German influence but I was definately wrong about that. Copenhagen is very Scandinavian and very much like Oslo or Sweden. They have lots of 7-11s and french hotdog stands: which reminds me of Oslo.
They are all crazy about bikes here. It is pretty hilarious to see the variety of bikes that they ride, the bicycle traffic and seeing all of the bikes parked infront of their houses like we do with cars back home. At the train station and other popular places there are thousands of bikes parked side by side. Bikes even get junk mail stuck on their panniers (like those little notes you get on your car windshield to get rich making thousands working from home).
Everywhere in the city there are basically two sidewalks: one for bikes and one for pedestrians. The bike lanes have their own little traffic lights. As a pedestrian you have to remember not to just blindly step onto the 'nicer' sidewalk without looking.
Copenhagen is very marine oriented: It is nice to see sailboats and other ships so close to the city. I noticed Alcatel Submarine Networks has an office here and I wondered what they do.
I have been spending the last couple days with a few guys from Derby, England. Last night Phil, Mark, Richard and I went on a bit of a pub crawl. We started out at a gay bar by accident, however it was the nicest bar of the evening. The main event was to go see a blues bar called Mojo. Later we went to go see a Led Zeppelin cover band play across the way. Finally we ended up in an Irish sports pub. We are going out tonight - hopefully we won't be buying rounds like last night.
My next stop is Amsterdam I think. I will decide tomorrow.
They are all crazy about bikes here. It is pretty hilarious to see the variety of bikes that they ride, the bicycle traffic and seeing all of the bikes parked infront of their houses like we do with cars back home. At the train station and other popular places there are thousands of bikes parked side by side. Bikes even get junk mail stuck on their panniers (like those little notes you get on your car windshield to get rich making thousands working from home).
Everywhere in the city there are basically two sidewalks: one for bikes and one for pedestrians. The bike lanes have their own little traffic lights. As a pedestrian you have to remember not to just blindly step onto the 'nicer' sidewalk without looking.
Copenhagen is very marine oriented: It is nice to see sailboats and other ships so close to the city. I noticed Alcatel Submarine Networks has an office here and I wondered what they do.
I have been spending the last couple days with a few guys from Derby, England. Last night Phil, Mark, Richard and I went on a bit of a pub crawl. We started out at a gay bar by accident, however it was the nicest bar of the evening. The main event was to go see a blues bar called Mojo. Later we went to go see a Led Zeppelin cover band play across the way. Finally we ended up in an Irish sports pub. We are going out tonight - hopefully we won't be buying rounds like last night.
My next stop is Amsterdam I think. I will decide tomorrow.
Humbug Hamburg
I was only in Hamburg for half a day. The weather was not very nice so I just walked to the waterfront and checked out their 'like Amsterdam' red light district.
I think Hamburg would be a nice city to visit in the summer. Based on my short visit I was not very impressed.
I think Hamburg would be a nice city to visit in the summer. Based on my short visit I was not very impressed.
Wednesday, November 10, 2004
off to Hamburg... skipping France
I am off to Hamburg today and will go to Copenhagen and Amsterdam after that. I was going to go to France after Amsterdam but I am now thinking of skipping France and going straight to Spain because the weather is miserable and perhaps France will look better (with some snow?) on my way back.
Tuesday, November 09, 2004
Sauna in Germany
Went to the German sauna this evening. Very nice. Sauna was nude and mixed, with bathing suits for the pools and the hot tub. Pretty uneventful (though slightly distracting), except for when I was trying to act casual in the nudy sauna, wrapped myself with my towel, stood up and really bonked my head on the short ceiling on the row I was sitting on while trying to leave. The women suggested something to the effect that my circulation was affected (?).
today is the 15 year anniversary
Today is the 15 year anniversary of the Berlin wall being taken down.
There is nothing exciting really going on right now (2 am)...
I saw one event advertized, but certainly the city has mixed feelings about it or at least does not treat it as something to celebrate.
There is nothing exciting really going on right now (2 am)...
I saw one event advertized, but certainly the city has mixed feelings about it or at least does not treat it as something to celebrate.
Berlin tour
Yesterday, Lilly (Australia), Peter (North England, near Edinborough), Shuna (with Peter) and I went on a tour of East Germany.
We went on the Terry Brewer tour which is the longest one available (10 hours). Terry is an older Englishman with some old fashioned ideas about women and Germans (bloody stupid this and silly those) so it was a bit of a challenge to have to spend the whole day with him and some of his condescending affectations. Overall though the tour was very educational and we all learned alot.
Saw the berlin wall. Most of it is all gone. It is marked in the street with cobblestones though and some places, protected by some fences (you can buy chunks of it for a couple hundred euros if you want). Also saw checkpoint Charlie, which is completly gone, and now put back there (staged) by the museam to make it look like it used to.
Interesting highlights for me of the tour was the amount of security around the Jewish buildings here (each with at least 2 army people and some barricades and cameras.). This was nothing compared to the amount of security around the American and English embassys : At least 6 soldiers with closed streets with huge concrete and iron barriers preventing anything large from getting near the structures at all.
Also what was interesting was the idea of a partitioned Berlin - deep within the Russian occupation zone of Germany. For me the partition did not make sense, but apparently Communism was so clearly wrong for people there was a duty of the Allies to save the East Germans this way. It was an issue of duty according to Terry. I don't like foreign manipulation of sovereign states so I was not ready to give in to his rationale - but I can see his side of the story at least.
There is no evidence presented for Communism and Soviet Communism as being a benefit for the people of Germany.
We went on the Terry Brewer tour which is the longest one available (10 hours). Terry is an older Englishman with some old fashioned ideas about women and Germans (bloody stupid this and silly those) so it was a bit of a challenge to have to spend the whole day with him and some of his condescending affectations. Overall though the tour was very educational and we all learned alot.
Saw the berlin wall. Most of it is all gone. It is marked in the street with cobblestones though and some places, protected by some fences (you can buy chunks of it for a couple hundred euros if you want). Also saw checkpoint Charlie, which is completly gone, and now put back there (staged) by the museam to make it look like it used to.
Interesting highlights for me of the tour was the amount of security around the Jewish buildings here (each with at least 2 army people and some barricades and cameras.). This was nothing compared to the amount of security around the American and English embassys : At least 6 soldiers with closed streets with huge concrete and iron barriers preventing anything large from getting near the structures at all.
Also what was interesting was the idea of a partitioned Berlin - deep within the Russian occupation zone of Germany. For me the partition did not make sense, but apparently Communism was so clearly wrong for people there was a duty of the Allies to save the East Germans this way. It was an issue of duty according to Terry. I don't like foreign manipulation of sovereign states so I was not ready to give in to his rationale - but I can see his side of the story at least.
There is no evidence presented for Communism and Soviet Communism as being a benefit for the people of Germany.
Sunday, November 07, 2004
Berlin
I just got here an hour ago. It is strange to think I am here. So far it feels very big like New York, dark (street lights are dimmer than I am used to) and there is a Starbucks here (first one I have seen so far).
Hofbrauhaus hangover
I am pretty hungover today. Had a great time at the Hofbrauhaus sharing a table right next to the German band with some Brazilians, Germans, Italians, a Korean an American and a couple unknowns. Drinking beers one litre at a time is pretty crazy.
It is raining here in Munich today and the weather forecast has called for snow. I will be taking the train to Berlin this afternoon.
It is raining here in Munich today and the weather forecast has called for snow. I will be taking the train to Berlin this afternoon.
Saturday, November 06, 2004
Walking tour of Munich and FC Bayern Munchen match
I went on a walking tour of Munich this morning. What I learned was:
* Munich used to be the capital of Bavaria when it was it's own country
* Most of the money for Munich came from a monopoly on the Salt trade AKA White Gold in the 1100s
* Alot of the layout of the city now (pedestrian access only downtown) and the subway system were developed in 1971 prior to the Munich Olympics
* At the start of the tour I held a sign that said "walking tour" for the tour guide and attracted 6 more people to our tour. At 10 euros each, I think I could start a business...
On the tour I met a Mexican/San Diego couple that were travelling through Europe in a new Volvo that they bought in Sweden and were going to have it shipped back home used. Apparently this is pretty popular here and I now think that is what the two couples at the Porsche tour were doing as well.
After the tour I went to the Olympic Gardens to go watch a Hannover vs FC Bazern Munchen football game. Very big stadium and area. Going there I felt I was going to a fair and not just a single sporting event. There were 62,000 fans in the stadium for the game.
It was probably the biggest outdoor game I have ever been to. I prefer the hockey arenas because they are more intimate, but this was still a good game in a very cool stadium.
One interesting thing is how there was an announcer or mc for the game who got the fans into it. When the home team took to the field he called out each player's first name and everyone else chanted back their last name.
After a goal...
Announcer (in german): What is the score?
Everyone (64,000 people): "Ein!"
Announcer: "to?"
Everyone: "Nul"
Announcer: "Danke!"
Everyone: "Bitte!"
It was pretty funny!
Bayern Munchen won the game by trei to nul. According to the 10 year old next to me, almost all of the players for Bayern Munchen are on the German National team. I recognized only Oliver Kahn (their keeper) - but I have only seen Germany play once against Brazil in the world cup.
* Munich used to be the capital of Bavaria when it was it's own country
* Most of the money for Munich came from a monopoly on the Salt trade AKA White Gold in the 1100s
* Alot of the layout of the city now (pedestrian access only downtown) and the subway system were developed in 1971 prior to the Munich Olympics
* At the start of the tour I held a sign that said "walking tour" for the tour guide and attracted 6 more people to our tour. At 10 euros each, I think I could start a business...
On the tour I met a Mexican/San Diego couple that were travelling through Europe in a new Volvo that they bought in Sweden and were going to have it shipped back home used. Apparently this is pretty popular here and I now think that is what the two couples at the Porsche tour were doing as well.
After the tour I went to the Olympic Gardens to go watch a Hannover vs FC Bazern Munchen football game. Very big stadium and area. Going there I felt I was going to a fair and not just a single sporting event. There were 62,000 fans in the stadium for the game.
It was probably the biggest outdoor game I have ever been to. I prefer the hockey arenas because they are more intimate, but this was still a good game in a very cool stadium.
One interesting thing is how there was an announcer or mc for the game who got the fans into it. When the home team took to the field he called out each player's first name and everyone else chanted back their last name.
After a goal...
Announcer (in german): What is the score?
Everyone (64,000 people): "Ein!"
Announcer: "to?"
Everyone: "Nul"
Announcer: "Danke!"
Everyone: "Bitte!"
It was pretty funny!
Bayern Munchen won the game by trei to nul. According to the 10 year old next to me, almost all of the players for Bayern Munchen are on the German National team. I recognized only Oliver Kahn (their keeper) - but I have only seen Germany play once against Brazil in the world cup.
Friday, November 05, 2004
Now in Munich
I am now in Munich. Today I went and walked around in the centre of town and checked out main Neuhausen Strasse, the Hofbrauhaus as well as the Viktuahan (sp?) market.
There are a surprising number of people visiting Munich. Surprising because it is a very dark and rainy day and it is over a month since Oktoberfest.
I visited the Hofbrauhaus which is the most famous of the German beer drinking houses. It was mostly full of bloated looking people. I might just be jealous though ... because I did not feel comfortable drinking on my own so I just had a look and took a picture. Perhaps tomorrow, I´ll find someone to go with.
The Viktuahan market was very impressive and a surprise. This market has an amazing selection of tasty things. Tasty things such as all sort of different mushrooms, truffles (the mushroom type), olives, figs, nuts, cheeze, pickles and fresh pasta. I have never seen such a variety of food in such a small place. I think this market would be a major benefit for living here. I was tempted to buy a truffle (the mushroom type) but I wasn´t sure what to do with it. Do you just eat it? It looked like it wanted to be prepared, so I opted for a huge Buffallo Mozzerella ball. Picture someone eating a Mozzeralla like an apple. An apple the size of an orange.
Tomorrow´s plan is to go see their top football team FC Banyern Munchen play and take a walking tour. Football is more German than Hockey, so buying the football ticket made more sense. I hope the weather clears up tho.
There are a surprising number of people visiting Munich. Surprising because it is a very dark and rainy day and it is over a month since Oktoberfest.
I visited the Hofbrauhaus which is the most famous of the German beer drinking houses. It was mostly full of bloated looking people. I might just be jealous though ... because I did not feel comfortable drinking on my own so I just had a look and took a picture. Perhaps tomorrow, I´ll find someone to go with.
The Viktuahan market was very impressive and a surprise. This market has an amazing selection of tasty things. Tasty things such as all sort of different mushrooms, truffles (the mushroom type), olives, figs, nuts, cheeze, pickles and fresh pasta. I have never seen such a variety of food in such a small place. I think this market would be a major benefit for living here. I was tempted to buy a truffle (the mushroom type) but I wasn´t sure what to do with it. Do you just eat it? It looked like it wanted to be prepared, so I opted for a huge Buffallo Mozzerella ball. Picture someone eating a Mozzeralla like an apple. An apple the size of an orange.
Tomorrow´s plan is to go see their top football team FC Banyern Munchen play and take a walking tour. Football is more German than Hockey, so buying the football ticket made more sense. I hope the weather clears up tho.
Janosch and his Tiger Duck in Heilbronn
After Ritter Sport, I took the train to Heilbronn where I was going to meet Jessy (a friend from meet in Vancouver who has returned to Germany).
We were just going to go have dinner, but we saw that there was a gallery opening and thought we should join in. Janosch - a famous German animator - who I have never heard of was there displaying some of his works. His most famous character is this Wooden duck that is painted with tiger stripes.
Anyway we got stuck in the Gallery as the speeches started up. Next time I go to a gallery opening I am going to keep my eye on the exits.
We were just going to go have dinner, but we saw that there was a gallery opening and thought we should join in. Janosch - a famous German animator - who I have never heard of was there displaying some of his works. His most famous character is this Wooden duck that is painted with tiger stripes.
Anyway we got stuck in the Gallery as the speeches started up. Next time I go to a gallery opening I am going to keep my eye on the exits.
Ritter Sport near Stuttgart
After seeing the Porsches being built I went to the Ritter Sport chocolate factory. I discovered Ritter Sport in the local IGA in Burnaby. I like their product and figured it would be cool to see the factory.
The factory was way out in the country side in a town called Waldenbuch. From what I understand about the history of the company, the wife of the founder suggested that he make a chocolate bar in a rectangular shape that fit properly into the pocket of a sport jacket - hence the ´sport´ in Ritter Sport chocolate.
The factory is still constructing a museam right now. What they did have was a few displays about how chocolate is processed and a cheezy kids movie about chocolate and this boy´s sister who found it necessary to pose as some sort of ninja spy to design him a new kind of chocolate for his birthday.
What was interesting for me was to see a cocoa plant, the cocoa fruit and the inside of the cocoa fruits.
The factory was way out in the country side in a town called Waldenbuch. From what I understand about the history of the company, the wife of the founder suggested that he make a chocolate bar in a rectangular shape that fit properly into the pocket of a sport jacket - hence the ´sport´ in Ritter Sport chocolate.
The factory is still constructing a museam right now. What they did have was a few displays about how chocolate is processed and a cheezy kids movie about chocolate and this boy´s sister who found it necessary to pose as some sort of ninja spy to design him a new kind of chocolate for his birthday.
What was interesting for me was to see a cocoa plant, the cocoa fruit and the inside of the cocoa fruits.
Dangerous pretzels
I am now ordering Prezels in German. I know, it is not much but it is a start. I did pretty good yesterday.
I said: "Ein Bretzel, bitte"
The clerk replied with emphasis: "EinE Brezel?"
I said yes.
I was lucky that she asked. Or I might have accidentally ended up with a male pretzel!
I said: "Ein Bretzel, bitte"
The clerk replied with emphasis: "EinE Brezel?"
I said yes.
I was lucky that she asked. Or I might have accidentally ended up with a male pretzel!
Porches in Stuttgart
First I visited the Mercedes museam in Stuttgart. Stuttgart is the headquarters for Daimler Chrysler and is where the automobile was invented. The Mercedes museam was pretty good as it displays the original vehicles that were produced by Daimler and Benz as well as some of their race cars and current cars. There were alot of Japanese tourists here.
For some reason I thought that Germans would all be driving German cars, but that is not the case here. I am not sure if even the majority of cars are German. Maybe... There are alot of Mazdas, Renaults, Peugots, Fords as well.
Stuttgart is a beautiful city. The city centre is encircled by a steep valley. I learned pretty quick how steep it is, because the hostel is located up about 15 minutes of straight stairs (like a quarter grouse grind - say)
On my second day in Stuttgart I went to the Porsche museam and factory tour. The factory tour was very cool:
* At this location they produce about 150 911s a day
* Every station in the car assembly is timed to 5 minutes
* The car engines are each assembled by only one mechanic. The mechanics used to sign the engine, but when Porsche enthusiasts discovered that some mechanics were producing consistely better engines, and were then requesting certain engine mechanics to build their Porches, Porsche put an end to the signitures.
* The factory is very small and compact. The assembly line takes the cars between several different floors (I expected the factory to be all on one floor)
* There are these little robot carts that drive around and were bumping into us on the tour
* All engines for all the cars are built in Stuttgart (except one)
* The workers are required to have about 3 years experience before they are allowed on the assembly line
* All engines are stress tested before being put into the cars. Almost all cars are given road tests prior to delivery
* Porsche is out of real estate and they are operating at capacity in Stuttgart. There are a couple old buildings in the middle of their complex which they are not allowed to tear down and rebuild because of German heritage laws. The VW beetle was designed in these buildings. (Ferdinand Porshe was a famous designer for Mercedes and he then founded Porsche as a design company and, among other things, designed the Bug for VW).
* Two couples (of about 15 people) on our tour had just bought Porshes and had come here to see the assembly. I don´t know if they get to see their Porshes yet.
* The Porsche philosophy is based on the Japanese Kaisen principles:
1. Workers must see the product of their labour
2. Workers must be able to make improvements
Workers are required to suggest improvements and if the improvements are adopted, then the worker gets 30% of the savings earned by the company for one year. The tour guide said that either 3Million or 30Million euros were paid out of this plan last year (I don´t remember which)
* The tour guide was proud of what his CEO was doing.
For some reason I thought that Germans would all be driving German cars, but that is not the case here. I am not sure if even the majority of cars are German. Maybe... There are alot of Mazdas, Renaults, Peugots, Fords as well.
Stuttgart is a beautiful city. The city centre is encircled by a steep valley. I learned pretty quick how steep it is, because the hostel is located up about 15 minutes of straight stairs (like a quarter grouse grind - say)
On my second day in Stuttgart I went to the Porsche museam and factory tour. The factory tour was very cool:
* At this location they produce about 150 911s a day
* Every station in the car assembly is timed to 5 minutes
* The car engines are each assembled by only one mechanic. The mechanics used to sign the engine, but when Porsche enthusiasts discovered that some mechanics were producing consistely better engines, and were then requesting certain engine mechanics to build their Porches, Porsche put an end to the signitures.
* The factory is very small and compact. The assembly line takes the cars between several different floors (I expected the factory to be all on one floor)
* There are these little robot carts that drive around and were bumping into us on the tour
* All engines for all the cars are built in Stuttgart (except one)
* The workers are required to have about 3 years experience before they are allowed on the assembly line
* All engines are stress tested before being put into the cars. Almost all cars are given road tests prior to delivery
* Porsche is out of real estate and they are operating at capacity in Stuttgart. There are a couple old buildings in the middle of their complex which they are not allowed to tear down and rebuild because of German heritage laws. The VW beetle was designed in these buildings. (Ferdinand Porshe was a famous designer for Mercedes and he then founded Porsche as a design company and, among other things, designed the Bug for VW).
* Two couples (of about 15 people) on our tour had just bought Porshes and had come here to see the assembly. I don´t know if they get to see their Porshes yet.
* The Porsche philosophy is based on the Japanese Kaisen principles:
1. Workers must see the product of their labour
2. Workers must be able to make improvements
Workers are required to suggest improvements and if the improvements are adopted, then the worker gets 30% of the savings earned by the company for one year. The tour guide said that either 3Million or 30Million euros were paid out of this plan last year (I don´t remember which)
* The tour guide was proud of what his CEO was doing.
Trip to Darmstadt
On the way to Darmstadt, I sat next to an Architect who worked in Berlin and in Frankfurt (and had a girlfriend in Dresden). We talked about a few things.
One was the difference between East and West Germans. His opinion was that right now East Germany is being used to soften the west German unions. i.e. if the West Germans do not agree to terms than work is moved East. He also mentioned that for East Germans things have been difficult in three areas:
1. Trust. The GDR was not a very good environment to live in and people did not trust each other. One of his close friends was being spied on by a climbing friend of his that was working for the Stasi. This mistrust of others is still part of the East German culture. This manifests itself in business where East Germans do not want anything in writing. They prefer all agreements to be verbal, therefore harder to be tracked.
2. Savings. East Germans do not have any savings. What this means is that compared to West Germans they are very insecure about their jobs and position. Under communism you did not have to have money saved in case of hard times, like you do in a capitalist society.
3. Inheritence and inherited money. Similar to number 2 - East Germans do not have family money that the West Germans do.
He was a pretty interesting guy and was very interested in things that were timeless. For example, doors are timeless according to him. His Apple IMac that died completly was not timeless. He got rid of his TV years ago and is now memorizing poetry in his spare time. (Poetry being more timeless than TV)
One was the difference between East and West Germans. His opinion was that right now East Germany is being used to soften the west German unions. i.e. if the West Germans do not agree to terms than work is moved East. He also mentioned that for East Germans things have been difficult in three areas:
1. Trust. The GDR was not a very good environment to live in and people did not trust each other. One of his close friends was being spied on by a climbing friend of his that was working for the Stasi. This mistrust of others is still part of the East German culture. This manifests itself in business where East Germans do not want anything in writing. They prefer all agreements to be verbal, therefore harder to be tracked.
2. Savings. East Germans do not have any savings. What this means is that compared to West Germans they are very insecure about their jobs and position. Under communism you did not have to have money saved in case of hard times, like you do in a capitalist society.
3. Inheritence and inherited money. Similar to number 2 - East Germans do not have family money that the West Germans do.
He was a pretty interesting guy and was very interested in things that were timeless. For example, doors are timeless according to him. His Apple IMac that died completly was not timeless. He got rid of his TV years ago and is now memorizing poetry in his spare time. (Poetry being more timeless than TV)
Visiting Alexandra in Darmstadt
After Leipsig, I took the train to Darmstadt which is near where Alexandra lives. Alexandra is a friend that I met this year while doing the west coast trail.
Getting a hold of Alexandra was a bit complicated. Alexandra was not at home when I called and her parents number her parents did not speak English.
I was able to get the clerk at the phone centre to translate for me and we agreed that I should call back at 8. In the meantime, I went and did my laundry.
When I finished my laundry and got back to the hostel, the hostel clerk asked if I was Sean and when I said yes, she said that she had a funny story to tell. While I was out, Alexandra called for me and the clerks went to go look for the ´Canadian´ (Alex asked for Sean, but they translated that into the Canadian). Anyway, through these translations, they went and accidentally got an Englishman (John) to come and answer the phone. Apparently John and Alexandra talked on the phone for 5 or 10 minutes!
Naturally, later that evening, John, Alexandra and I went out to dinner together.
Getting a hold of Alexandra was a bit complicated. Alexandra was not at home when I called and her parents number her parents did not speak English.
I was able to get the clerk at the phone centre to translate for me and we agreed that I should call back at 8. In the meantime, I went and did my laundry.
When I finished my laundry and got back to the hostel, the hostel clerk asked if I was Sean and when I said yes, she said that she had a funny story to tell. While I was out, Alexandra called for me and the clerks went to go look for the ´Canadian´ (Alex asked for Sean, but they translated that into the Canadian). Anyway, through these translations, they went and accidentally got an Englishman (John) to come and answer the phone. Apparently John and Alexandra talked on the phone for 5 or 10 minutes!
Naturally, later that evening, John, Alexandra and I went out to dinner together.
Matt and Amanda in Leipsig
I did meet Matt from Winnipeg and Amanda from Sacramento while in the Hostel. Amanda and I went to the Bach Museum, the Stasi Museam (German Secret Police) and the GDR museam. The GDR museam was very cool especially considering it was free.
Bach spent his latter years in Leipsig and raised his family there. He was quite prolific. He had 20 kids from two marriages. Bach is now buried in the Altar of the Thomaskilne church in the centre of Leipsig.
Amanda was an interesting person to meet. She is 17 years old and had no money. Because I wanted to go to the Bach museum, I insisted on paying for her. When she left to go to Paris, the hostel woman gave her some free food. At the last second when Matt and I walked her to the train, Matt gave her 5 Euros to buy something to eat.
After Amanda left, Matt and I went to the Auerbachs Keller Restaurant which is famous because it was a favourite of Goethe and is featured in the opening act of Faust. Being halloween night, it seemed to be semi appropriate as there are many paintings of Damocles there.
Bach spent his latter years in Leipsig and raised his family there. He was quite prolific. He had 20 kids from two marriages. Bach is now buried in the Altar of the Thomaskilne church in the centre of Leipsig.
Amanda was an interesting person to meet. She is 17 years old and had no money. Because I wanted to go to the Bach museum, I insisted on paying for her. When she left to go to Paris, the hostel woman gave her some free food. At the last second when Matt and I walked her to the train, Matt gave her 5 Euros to buy something to eat.
After Amanda left, Matt and I went to the Auerbachs Keller Restaurant which is famous because it was a favourite of Goethe and is featured in the opening act of Faust. Being halloween night, it seemed to be semi appropriate as there are many paintings of Damocles there.
Leipsig and German hostels
Ok. First it is not pronounced Lip Sig. It is pronounced Lype Sitch. I have had about four people explain to me how it is pronounced and when the g suffix is pronounced as a ch in German. Now you know.
I got to the hostel fairly late. I had planned to go to Berlin but ended up here because I missed the train. This hostel, like the one in Dresden, was primarily occupied by Germans. A couple German families that looked like they were travelling together and a group of german students. That there are ´locals´ in the hostel is something very different to Germany compared to other countries I have visited. In fact, in none of the hostels I have been in to date (man - it has to be over 15 by now) I cannot recall meeting anyone who was staying there that was the same country. Everyone has been from foreign countries and speaking English in the hostel. Here German is much more popular. Alex told me that the Germans invented the hostel concept so that is why it is quite popular with Germans. Because I am actually writing this in the future, I know now that the official hostels are frequented by a higher percentage of Germans than the independent ones.
I think this difference is interesting. Normally I would not think of a hostel as a place to bring a family, however I have seen it done here in Leipsig.
I got to the hostel fairly late. I had planned to go to Berlin but ended up here because I missed the train. This hostel, like the one in Dresden, was primarily occupied by Germans. A couple German families that looked like they were travelling together and a group of german students. That there are ´locals´ in the hostel is something very different to Germany compared to other countries I have visited. In fact, in none of the hostels I have been in to date (man - it has to be over 15 by now) I cannot recall meeting anyone who was staying there that was the same country. Everyone has been from foreign countries and speaking English in the hostel. Here German is much more popular. Alex told me that the Germans invented the hostel concept so that is why it is quite popular with Germans. Because I am actually writing this in the future, I know now that the official hostels are frequented by a higher percentage of Germans than the independent ones.
I think this difference is interesting. Normally I would not think of a hostel as a place to bring a family, however I have seen it done here in Leipsig.
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