Random notes:
* Lots of fur coats on women. Old women are dressed in old but fashionable clothes.
* Men wear dark coats, scarves and dress shirts. Sweaters with diagonal zippers. In my T-Shirt and ski jacket outfit I am underdressed for Paris.
* People do actually walk around and ride around carrying bread sticks. I saw one person riding a scooter holding a breadstick in the middle with her mouth!
* The Louvre is huge. It has a beautiful campus towards the Champs.
* I was surprised to see streets named after U.S. Presidents (Wilson, Kennedy)
* Lots of people with small dogs. A couple poodles, but not with the fancy poodle haircuts.
* Expensive. Cappuchinos regularily sell for 4.50 euros.
* Minimal skyscrapers. There are two under construction. Other than those two the city is pretty much all classic looking.
* I can get by not speaking any English at all. My french is not that good, so often after asking a question people start to answer in english. I continue speaking in french though so I can get practice and get better at it. What is funny is I catch myself thinking in french - even though I am missing words - so I must not be thinking as well!
* Lots of motorcycles and scooters in Paris. More motorcycles and scooters than I have seen in any city to date. Motorcyclists and Scooterists have these leg coverings that they drape over their legs to keep themselves warm. These same coverings are used to cover the seat when the bike is parked. They are very aggressive and drive down the bicycle lanes, taxi lanes and between lanes to get where they are going. I have also seen alot of young men with older ladies on the back of their bikes. I am not sure if these guys are driving their moms around or not.
I have had a cold for the last couple days so I have been cooped up in a very small room on "Rue de Mauvais Garcons" :). Basically the room is just big enough to hold a window, sink and bed. The roof comes down towards the bottom of my bed so I can actually put my feet up on the 'ceiling' if I want. From the window I can see Notre Dame. The walls are covered with white wall paper with repeating patterns of 3 green and brown scenes of moose and deer near a lake with mountains in the background. Very Canadian looking.
Last night I went to a French restaurant and ordered the 15 euro menu (cheap compared to the more popular 26 euro menus around town): Included a nice Salade d'endive au bleu et noix, followed by a Poulet Basquaise and finished off with an Entrement Framboise.
Food here is very rich and my stomach is not really used to it. So far I prefer italian food - though I have had a really nice orange tart here a few nights ago.
Tuesday, November 30, 2004
Belgian Beer and Food
Belgian beer and food is great. Overall it seems like the quality of the food served in Belgium is a notch higher than anywhere I have been so far (including France). I had one of the best tomato and cheese paninis in a small bar called Zebra in Brussells.
Of course I also sampled their fine beers, waffles and chocolates while I was there.
Of course I also sampled their fine beers, waffles and chocolates while I was there.
Drinking contest with the Dutch
I guess it was my fault.
Kaz came to visit me while I was in Amsterdam and we went to Groningen together.
Before heading to Groningen we went and saw a Sarah Mclaughlan concert in Amsterdam. Surprisingly there were no drugs smoked in the concert at all! In AMSTERDAM!
Actually I think the guy behind me had taken mushrooms. He was singing along badly throughout most of the concert. And by singing I mean he was making noices of varying pitch. For example - even when there were no lyrics being played - he would make noises when the musicians hit a high note: 'eeee' 'eeeee' he would say. He was a big guy in his early forties wearing a leather costume. At one point I did ask him to sing more quietly. He closed his eyes and nodded side to side sloppily like a baby or a drunk.
Fortunately he did walk around later in the concert during some of the more important songs (Building a mystery, your love, some comfort there, eddie..).
Anyway back to Groningen. I decided I need to learn to relax and I was looking for a bar for Kaz and I to go for a drink. I saw one that looked like a relaxing lounge and we went in. Turns out it was actually the waiting room for a movie theatre, but they served drinks. And it was relaxing.
We tried a couple of the local beers and then Kaz got us some "southern comforts" with some Pepsi as that is what she has back in Australia. Anyway, I was drinking my southern comfort straight and decided to mix a bit with the pepsi to try it that way...
The guy at the table next to me gave me a pretty disapproving look! I asked him what is problem was and he said.... "is your drink too strong?"
So I said: "Bah. I am just trying it the way Kaz suggested. What do you want to start a drinking contest or something???".
So that is how we got started. He and his friend Marlene had just seen a movie called the "Camel that cries" and we started talking about Dutch culture and then went through the drink menu together. Basically forming a bit of a drinking contest I suppose. We tried this kind of cold wine (bogger win?) and some Gins with different kinds of herbs, then some Guinness, Grolsh, etc.
We got to talking about Dutch culture and here is what I learned - from this small example:
* The Netherlands is actually the land of the rules. The Dutch love discussing the pros and cons about everything: "Why do it? Why not? Whaaatevvver..."
* To the Dutch, discussions about euthenasia are as important right now as any discussion about drugs or prostitution.
* As an example of rules: You cannot buy a house in Haarlem (a suburb of Amsterdam) unless you have a permit. You can only get a permit if you have a job in Haarlem (or are independently wealthy).
* Dutch generosity also has rules. If you visit a Dutch person they will often offer you a cookie. But you are only allowed one.
* What is typically Dutch is their generousity, but with 10 rules that need to be interpreted.
* The laws of the EU and how foreigners take advantage of what is available in the Netherlands is not part of their thinking. According to Marlene in England travel agents advertise: "55 euros to get drunk and laid in Amsterdam!"
* The dutch also have a Not in My Backyard kind of thinking. Drugs and Prostitution are ok - just in Amsterdam and not in my city!
What I found from this discussion is that the Dutch are very friendly in a gregarious way. I also found out that I am no good at drinking contests.
Kaz came to visit me while I was in Amsterdam and we went to Groningen together.
Before heading to Groningen we went and saw a Sarah Mclaughlan concert in Amsterdam. Surprisingly there were no drugs smoked in the concert at all! In AMSTERDAM!
Actually I think the guy behind me had taken mushrooms. He was singing along badly throughout most of the concert. And by singing I mean he was making noices of varying pitch. For example - even when there were no lyrics being played - he would make noises when the musicians hit a high note: 'eeee' 'eeeee' he would say. He was a big guy in his early forties wearing a leather costume. At one point I did ask him to sing more quietly. He closed his eyes and nodded side to side sloppily like a baby or a drunk.
Fortunately he did walk around later in the concert during some of the more important songs (Building a mystery, your love, some comfort there, eddie..).
Anyway back to Groningen. I decided I need to learn to relax and I was looking for a bar for Kaz and I to go for a drink. I saw one that looked like a relaxing lounge and we went in. Turns out it was actually the waiting room for a movie theatre, but they served drinks. And it was relaxing.
We tried a couple of the local beers and then Kaz got us some "southern comforts" with some Pepsi as that is what she has back in Australia. Anyway, I was drinking my southern comfort straight and decided to mix a bit with the pepsi to try it that way...
The guy at the table next to me gave me a pretty disapproving look! I asked him what is problem was and he said.... "is your drink too strong?"
So I said: "Bah. I am just trying it the way Kaz suggested. What do you want to start a drinking contest or something???".
So that is how we got started. He and his friend Marlene had just seen a movie called the "Camel that cries" and we started talking about Dutch culture and then went through the drink menu together. Basically forming a bit of a drinking contest I suppose. We tried this kind of cold wine (bogger win?) and some Gins with different kinds of herbs, then some Guinness, Grolsh, etc.
We got to talking about Dutch culture and here is what I learned - from this small example:
* The Netherlands is actually the land of the rules. The Dutch love discussing the pros and cons about everything: "Why do it? Why not? Whaaatevvver..."
* To the Dutch, discussions about euthenasia are as important right now as any discussion about drugs or prostitution.
* As an example of rules: You cannot buy a house in Haarlem (a suburb of Amsterdam) unless you have a permit. You can only get a permit if you have a job in Haarlem (or are independently wealthy).
* Dutch generosity also has rules. If you visit a Dutch person they will often offer you a cookie. But you are only allowed one.
* What is typically Dutch is their generousity, but with 10 rules that need to be interpreted.
* The laws of the EU and how foreigners take advantage of what is available in the Netherlands is not part of their thinking. According to Marlene in England travel agents advertise: "55 euros to get drunk and laid in Amsterdam!"
* The dutch also have a Not in My Backyard kind of thinking. Drugs and Prostitution are ok - just in Amsterdam and not in my city!
What I found from this discussion is that the Dutch are very friendly in a gregarious way. I also found out that I am no good at drinking contests.
When Sex becomes work
When I was in the Prostitution Information Centre there was a book written by a prostitute called "When Sex Becomes Work". Like the general bias of the PIC, it was supportive of legalized prostitution.
The book had some topics that I would never of thought of:
1. Hustling techniques. When should you do it and when not? The author refers to one prostitute who would charge a customer for each piece of clothing she took off and she would wear very complicated outfits to maximize her yield.
2. How to look attractive in the window. Not too close. Find a pose that suits you...
3. During sex - keeping it professional. Do not do things that turn you on. Suggestion to refuse clients who would turn you on outside of work.
4. What to do when you see people you know from your window.
The book had some topics that I would never of thought of:
1. Hustling techniques. When should you do it and when not? The author refers to one prostitute who would charge a customer for each piece of clothing she took off and she would wear very complicated outfits to maximize her yield.
2. How to look attractive in the window. Not too close. Find a pose that suits you...
3. During sex - keeping it professional. Do not do things that turn you on. Suggestion to refuse clients who would turn you on outside of work.
4. What to do when you see people you know from your window.
Prostitution in Amsterdam
Prostitution is legal in Amsterdam. My guess is that there are about 200 to 400 little windows that have women sitting in them along and between three streets in Amsterdam near Centraal Station.
The women are all dressed in lingerie and encourage people to come visit. Most windows are at ground level and as you walk by the will often open their doors and invite you to come in. From the street you can see that behind the sitting area they have a small bed and mirror where they bring their clients after closing the curtains.
What surprised me was that there was no nudity or particularily explicit gestures at all. I expect that they are required to conform to some sort of standardized practices.
By reading my guidebook and by also visiting the prostitution information centre I found out that:
* the women rent the rooms for about 200 Euros per shift. The going rate is 50 euros for 20 minutes for a standard service. Extra charges are levied for anything else.
* the rooms normally have alarm systems equipped. Because it is legal, prostitutes will call the police if there is trouble and not a pimp.
* one of Peter's friends apparently was going crazy one night and visited 4 prostitutes (180 euros. He got a discount from one). At the end he was apparently wanting to go and "get one so I can punch her in the face".
This was pretty shocking. I wondered if violence was a big issue in the Red Light District. I am not sure it is anymore. When I asked the lady in the Prostitution Information Centre about it she said violence was not a big issue.
She pointed out that:
1. it is all done in a very public way, so there is less opportunity
2. there is high security in the Red Light District, patrolled by police and video cameras
3. Consider "The Pickton situation you have in Vancouver. That would not happen here." She was originally from Toronto, but I was still surprised that she had heard about the Pickton pig farm.
The mention about the Pickton pig farm is pretty shocking. Is she right?
* Amsterdam is not opening up any more windows in the Red Light District. The windows currently there are in some strange places. Flanking a daycare centre, going around the back of a big church.
The women are all dressed in lingerie and encourage people to come visit. Most windows are at ground level and as you walk by the will often open their doors and invite you to come in. From the street you can see that behind the sitting area they have a small bed and mirror where they bring their clients after closing the curtains.
What surprised me was that there was no nudity or particularily explicit gestures at all. I expect that they are required to conform to some sort of standardized practices.
By reading my guidebook and by also visiting the prostitution information centre I found out that:
* the women rent the rooms for about 200 Euros per shift. The going rate is 50 euros for 20 minutes for a standard service. Extra charges are levied for anything else.
* the rooms normally have alarm systems equipped. Because it is legal, prostitutes will call the police if there is trouble and not a pimp.
* one of Peter's friends apparently was going crazy one night and visited 4 prostitutes (180 euros. He got a discount from one). At the end he was apparently wanting to go and "get one so I can punch her in the face".
This was pretty shocking. I wondered if violence was a big issue in the Red Light District. I am not sure it is anymore. When I asked the lady in the Prostitution Information Centre about it she said violence was not a big issue.
She pointed out that:
1. it is all done in a very public way, so there is less opportunity
2. there is high security in the Red Light District, patrolled by police and video cameras
3. Consider "The Pickton situation you have in Vancouver. That would not happen here." She was originally from Toronto, but I was still surprised that she had heard about the Pickton pig farm.
The mention about the Pickton pig farm is pretty shocking. Is she right?
* Amsterdam is not opening up any more windows in the Red Light District. The windows currently there are in some strange places. Flanking a daycare centre, going around the back of a big church.
Drugs in Amsterdam
Turns out that drugs are not even legal in Amsterdam. They are 'tolerated' here. I don't know how this works with the police - i.e. who decides what is appropriate or not but things are pretty standardized.
If a store is called a "Cafe", then they sell coffee.
If it is a "Coffee Shop" they sell pot as well as coffee. Different coffee shops have different menus of pot, hash and/or mushrooms. A good place will have about 10 different types of pot, 5 types of hash and about 5 types of mushrooms. Different places will have different selections or strains of pot. Most sell in 5 gram bags and will also sell pre-rolled joints.
Pot use is very open within the shops and the smell eminating outdoors. I think that you could spend alot of time in Amsterdam checking out all of the different varieties of pot each day. What is interesting is how legitimate and reputable it appears. You are very unlikely to get ripped off or provided with bad drugs because by maintaining such a visible presence the shops are held accountable.
On the street corners there are drug dealers offering cocaine. This surprised me because normally drug dealers usually offer softer drugs (e.g. if you walk in Gastown, you will often hear hushed offers for hash) first and then only the persistent dealers would then offer other things like cocaine. But I suppose when the 'legitimate' market is already providing pot and hash, the dealers have to move up the food chain. From what I have heard the cocaine is not very good.
I was curious to find out if their policy of 'toleration' reduces or encourage use. I was interested to know if by legalizing the marijuana if Dutch people were more or less hooked on it than North Americans. The Cannibis College had statistics that showed that experimentation rates were similar between the U.S. and the Dutch, but that chronic use was higher in the U.S.
I don't know if I really believe these statistics because there was little information posted about the source of their information. What I do know is that the Dutch are not all pot smokers and pot consumption is looked down on. The Dutch also have mixed feelings about the hordes of drug-tourists exploiting one aspect of their society.
At the Cannabis College I also read that there has not been any association between pot use and cancer, but there is a 6 fold increase in the amount of tar that you can inhale when compared to a cigarette of the same weight.
Amsterdam is interesting because it is a relatively safe place to experiment and the city is itself is a bit of an experiment.
If a store is called a "Cafe", then they sell coffee.
If it is a "Coffee Shop" they sell pot as well as coffee. Different coffee shops have different menus of pot, hash and/or mushrooms. A good place will have about 10 different types of pot, 5 types of hash and about 5 types of mushrooms. Different places will have different selections or strains of pot. Most sell in 5 gram bags and will also sell pre-rolled joints.
Pot use is very open within the shops and the smell eminating outdoors. I think that you could spend alot of time in Amsterdam checking out all of the different varieties of pot each day. What is interesting is how legitimate and reputable it appears. You are very unlikely to get ripped off or provided with bad drugs because by maintaining such a visible presence the shops are held accountable.
On the street corners there are drug dealers offering cocaine. This surprised me because normally drug dealers usually offer softer drugs (e.g. if you walk in Gastown, you will often hear hushed offers for hash) first and then only the persistent dealers would then offer other things like cocaine. But I suppose when the 'legitimate' market is already providing pot and hash, the dealers have to move up the food chain. From what I have heard the cocaine is not very good.
I was curious to find out if their policy of 'toleration' reduces or encourage use. I was interested to know if by legalizing the marijuana if Dutch people were more or less hooked on it than North Americans. The Cannibis College had statistics that showed that experimentation rates were similar between the U.S. and the Dutch, but that chronic use was higher in the U.S.
I don't know if I really believe these statistics because there was little information posted about the source of their information. What I do know is that the Dutch are not all pot smokers and pot consumption is looked down on. The Dutch also have mixed feelings about the hordes of drug-tourists exploiting one aspect of their society.
At the Cannabis College I also read that there has not been any association between pot use and cancer, but there is a 6 fold increase in the amount of tar that you can inhale when compared to a cigarette of the same weight.
Amsterdam is interesting because it is a relatively safe place to experiment and the city is itself is a bit of an experiment.
Scene in an Amsterdam Hostel
The situation:
It is close to midnight. Sally and Sean are going to bed.
The room has three bunks. Sean is on the bottom bunk near the window. Sally is on the top. The bunk across the room is empty. The bunk closest to the door has a guy who has been passed out since 5:30 pm sleeping there. What is a disconcerting is that he is completly un-responsive and has moved the garbage can close to his head so that he can puke into it.
Earlier Sally has told Sean that the day prior earlier there were Mexicans who had been dividing up a huge pile of marijuana on one of the beds. Also someone told her that the night before there was a girl laying in the middle of the room screaming and laughing all night tripping out on mushrooms.
... Peter enters the room ...
Peter (to comatose): "Hey man are you alright? You want to go out?"
Comatose: no response
Peter: "Hi, where are you from?"
Sally: "Do you think we should get him some water?"
Peter (to comotose): "DO YOU WANT SOME WATER?" (no response)
Peter: "He is ok. He bought three joints and smoked one too fast. Amateur. Thing is he was talking shit about being able to smoke all three."
Sally: "Israel"
Peter: "Dundee"
Peter (Staggers back hand in front of his body): "Israel, wow, Israel, that is too intense. I've never met someone from Israel. Wow. Israel? Israel?. I am going to freak out!"
Sally: "So are you on pot as well?"
Peter: "No". Jumps onto his bed.
Peter: "I'm not sure what I have been doing. I have done some cocaine and maybe some ecstacy. I can't remember.". Peter reaches into his pocket to grab a baggie. Baggie flies up into the air and down behind the bed. "Fuck. There goes my ecstacy, I cannot remember if I took some of that or not".
Sally: "So you are doing cocaine? That is pretty hardcore?"
Peter: "Yeah. I do it on weekends at home and while I am here why not?"
Sally: "Does the rest of your group do cocaine?"
Peter: "Nah. I am the only one. The rest are on pot or booze."
Sally: "Can I see the cocaine?"
Peter: "It isn't very good. I tested the first batch and the second batch I was a bit drunk at the time. I put some on my gums but to be honest I didn't really test it at all".
Peter jumps off his bed and shows Sally the cocaine: A bit of white powder wrapped in a small piece of white paper.
Peter then clears off a side table and puts the cocaine on the table. He then starts making a line with it using his key card.
Sally: "You don't have to do that now"
Peter: "Don't worry. It's ok. It's not that good anyway"
Sally takes out video camera and films the cocaine and Peter together.
Peter then snorts cocaine up his nose.
Sally: "How does that feel?"
Peter: "Ok"
Peter jumps back onto bed.
Sally: "So did you visit the Red Light district?"
Peter: "Yeah."
Sally: "Did you visit any of the women?"
Peter: "Getting personal no?...ok...Yeah I did"
Sally: "What did you do?
Peter: "I visited two."
Sally: "Two! How much did that cost?
Peter: "50 euros each. With the cocaine that was 200 euros tonight! Fuck I can't keep spending that kind of money."
Peter: "Actually I left my watch at the first hooker's. At first I thought it was stolen but I remembered and she was real nice about giving it back."
Sally: "So what was the experience it like?"
Peter: "Ok. Alright. You are in Amsterdam you have to do it for a larf"
Peter: "Actually...God... Nah... I cannot say.... Well actually I didn't 'finish' either time"
Peter: "It was pretty disappointing actually. The interaction is pretty shallow - not good. The conversation and interaction we are having right now is much better and open than the one with the prostitutes."
Sally: "So therefore, all you have to do is cocaine and you can get this better kind of interaction then."
Peter: "noh...that's not why I do it"
Peter: (slyly) "ok. yeah. it is".
... later, Peter stands up and puts his head through ceiling tiles ...
... next morning Sally gets out of Peter's bunk and heads home to Israel ...
... next day ...
Peter and friend:
Friend: "Nice tattoo"
Peter: "My mom was so upset when she saw it. She was almost crying"
Friend: "What if she found out about the cocaine"
Peter: "Someone already told her about the weekends"
Peter: "Well if she tries to kick me out, I will just tell her I'll quit uni"
It is close to midnight. Sally and Sean are going to bed.
The room has three bunks. Sean is on the bottom bunk near the window. Sally is on the top. The bunk across the room is empty. The bunk closest to the door has a guy who has been passed out since 5:30 pm sleeping there. What is a disconcerting is that he is completly un-responsive and has moved the garbage can close to his head so that he can puke into it.
Earlier Sally has told Sean that the day prior earlier there were Mexicans who had been dividing up a huge pile of marijuana on one of the beds. Also someone told her that the night before there was a girl laying in the middle of the room screaming and laughing all night tripping out on mushrooms.
... Peter enters the room ...
Peter (to comatose): "Hey man are you alright? You want to go out?"
Comatose: no response
Peter: "Hi, where are you from?"
Sally: "Do you think we should get him some water?"
Peter (to comotose): "DO YOU WANT SOME WATER?" (no response)
Peter: "He is ok. He bought three joints and smoked one too fast. Amateur. Thing is he was talking shit about being able to smoke all three."
Sally: "Israel"
Peter: "Dundee"
Peter (Staggers back hand in front of his body): "Israel, wow, Israel, that is too intense. I've never met someone from Israel. Wow. Israel? Israel?. I am going to freak out!"
Sally: "So are you on pot as well?"
Peter: "No". Jumps onto his bed.
Peter: "I'm not sure what I have been doing. I have done some cocaine and maybe some ecstacy. I can't remember.". Peter reaches into his pocket to grab a baggie. Baggie flies up into the air and down behind the bed. "Fuck. There goes my ecstacy, I cannot remember if I took some of that or not".
Sally: "So you are doing cocaine? That is pretty hardcore?"
Peter: "Yeah. I do it on weekends at home and while I am here why not?"
Sally: "Does the rest of your group do cocaine?"
Peter: "Nah. I am the only one. The rest are on pot or booze."
Sally: "Can I see the cocaine?"
Peter: "It isn't very good. I tested the first batch and the second batch I was a bit drunk at the time. I put some on my gums but to be honest I didn't really test it at all".
Peter jumps off his bed and shows Sally the cocaine: A bit of white powder wrapped in a small piece of white paper.
Peter then clears off a side table and puts the cocaine on the table. He then starts making a line with it using his key card.
Sally: "You don't have to do that now"
Peter: "Don't worry. It's ok. It's not that good anyway"
Sally takes out video camera and films the cocaine and Peter together.
Peter then snorts cocaine up his nose.
Sally: "How does that feel?"
Peter: "Ok"
Peter jumps back onto bed.
Sally: "So did you visit the Red Light district?"
Peter: "Yeah."
Sally: "Did you visit any of the women?"
Peter: "Getting personal no?...ok...Yeah I did"
Sally: "What did you do?
Peter: "I visited two."
Sally: "Two! How much did that cost?
Peter: "50 euros each. With the cocaine that was 200 euros tonight! Fuck I can't keep spending that kind of money."
Peter: "Actually I left my watch at the first hooker's. At first I thought it was stolen but I remembered and she was real nice about giving it back."
Sally: "So what was the experience it like?"
Peter: "Ok. Alright. You are in Amsterdam you have to do it for a larf"
Peter: "Actually...God... Nah... I cannot say.... Well actually I didn't 'finish' either time"
Peter: "It was pretty disappointing actually. The interaction is pretty shallow - not good. The conversation and interaction we are having right now is much better and open than the one with the prostitutes."
Sally: "So therefore, all you have to do is cocaine and you can get this better kind of interaction then."
Peter: "noh...that's not why I do it"
Peter: (slyly) "ok. yeah. it is".
... later, Peter stands up and puts his head through ceiling tiles ...
... next morning Sally gets out of Peter's bunk and heads home to Israel ...
... next day ...
Peter and friend:
Friend: "Nice tattoo"
Peter: "My mom was so upset when she saw it. She was almost crying"
Friend: "What if she found out about the cocaine"
Peter: "Someone already told her about the weekends"
Peter: "Well if she tries to kick me out, I will just tell her I'll quit uni"
Anne Frank House
While in Warsaw, I read that Auschwitz was near Krakow and I thought I should do some sort of thinking or research prior to visiting there. What I did was buy a copy of Anne Frank's diary and started reading it there.
After seeing Auschwitz, I was done with 'holocaust tourism' but as I bought the book I forced myself to finish it anyway.
As it turns out the book is not what I expected. The book was far more about the inner thoughts and feelings about a mature and maturing girl, her relationship with her father, her mother, her sister, another woman and her feelings about boys. The book is very interesting for me as it is the only book I can recall reading (I don't rember too much about the Judy Blume books anymore) that dealt so intensely regarding the relationship between women, their mothers and other women.
What I had expected was that the book would be about suffering and fear of Jews during the holocaust.
So when I got to Amsterdam I visited the Ann Frank Haus which has preserved the house that Ann Frank and her family had stayed in.
It was like walking into the book: They use quotes from the book throughout each of the rooms and also have computer terminals where practically every line from the book seems cross referenced. They also have a very useful 3d representation of the house which makes it easier to visualize their hiding place in reference to the rest of the house.
What I did not appreciate about the display is that they had biased the presentation to be about the holocaust and had marginalized the core of the book: Ann Frank's relationships and feelings with those close to her.
For example, in Anne Frank's diary she states things like that she could never love her mother, that she would never love her mother and that her mother does not behave as Anne would behave if she was to be a good mother! Anne mentions one interaction where her mother wants to read prayers with Anne, but Anne refuses to read her prayers with her mother even though she knows this will hurt her mother deeply - but Anne does not want to pretend that she loves her mother. These are pretty serious things to be thinking and writing, so in the Museum where the show a video clip of Otto Frank saying that after he read the diary for the first time that: "I was surprised at the seriousness and depth of her feelings" I interpret this to refer to her feelings towards her mother. However the way this is presented in the museum is that Otto's quote has something to do with Anne's feelings about the holocaust!
I discussed this with an Israeli girl I met in the hostel that night. Her point was that the purpose of the museum was to educate about the holocaust and not Anne Frank.
Anyway both the museum and the book are very good in their own -different- ways.
After seeing Auschwitz, I was done with 'holocaust tourism' but as I bought the book I forced myself to finish it anyway.
As it turns out the book is not what I expected. The book was far more about the inner thoughts and feelings about a mature and maturing girl, her relationship with her father, her mother, her sister, another woman and her feelings about boys. The book is very interesting for me as it is the only book I can recall reading (I don't rember too much about the Judy Blume books anymore) that dealt so intensely regarding the relationship between women, their mothers and other women.
What I had expected was that the book would be about suffering and fear of Jews during the holocaust.
So when I got to Amsterdam I visited the Ann Frank Haus which has preserved the house that Ann Frank and her family had stayed in.
It was like walking into the book: They use quotes from the book throughout each of the rooms and also have computer terminals where practically every line from the book seems cross referenced. They also have a very useful 3d representation of the house which makes it easier to visualize their hiding place in reference to the rest of the house.
What I did not appreciate about the display is that they had biased the presentation to be about the holocaust and had marginalized the core of the book: Ann Frank's relationships and feelings with those close to her.
For example, in Anne Frank's diary she states things like that she could never love her mother, that she would never love her mother and that her mother does not behave as Anne would behave if she was to be a good mother! Anne mentions one interaction where her mother wants to read prayers with Anne, but Anne refuses to read her prayers with her mother even though she knows this will hurt her mother deeply - but Anne does not want to pretend that she loves her mother. These are pretty serious things to be thinking and writing, so in the Museum where the show a video clip of Otto Frank saying that after he read the diary for the first time that: "I was surprised at the seriousness and depth of her feelings" I interpret this to refer to her feelings towards her mother. However the way this is presented in the museum is that Otto's quote has something to do with Anne's feelings about the holocaust!
I discussed this with an Israeli girl I met in the hostel that night. Her point was that the purpose of the museum was to educate about the holocaust and not Anne Frank.
Anyway both the museum and the book are very good in their own -different- ways.
Music and travel
I have noticed that I am far more receptive to music while travelling. Right now in this web cafe they are playing REM 'Losing my Religion' and it really resonates more. I wonder if it is because I am generally more receptive or if there is some other reason.
Junk food and travel burnout
I am eating alot of junk food, candy and not getting enough sleep. I am going to do better on keeping myself self-aware of these things otherwise this tour will turn into a 'Zombie tour of Europe'.
What I do miss is doing some sort of exercise. I actually did some jogging when I started in New York, but it is a whole lot of hassle and uses up precious clean clothes. After my wallet, my passport and camera - the thing I defend most in my pack are clean clothes. This is going to sound a bit weird or paranoid, but there have been at least a couple times that I have left my room and thought to myself: "I hope no one takes my clean clothes!" Take anything else. Just leave me a clean pair of pants!
My latest scheme is to try and find a pool and do swimming because it dirties the least amount of clothes. Hmm...If I could find a nudie pool - even better. I haven't done this yet though. I am also looking foreward to January where I want to do some snowboarding in the Alps.
What I do miss is doing some sort of exercise. I actually did some jogging when I started in New York, but it is a whole lot of hassle and uses up precious clean clothes. After my wallet, my passport and camera - the thing I defend most in my pack are clean clothes. This is going to sound a bit weird or paranoid, but there have been at least a couple times that I have left my room and thought to myself: "I hope no one takes my clean clothes!" Take anything else. Just leave me a clean pair of pants!
My latest scheme is to try and find a pool and do swimming because it dirties the least amount of clothes. Hmm...If I could find a nudie pool - even better. I haven't done this yet though. I am also looking foreward to January where I want to do some snowboarding in the Alps.
first times
Iceland is expensive
New York is smokey
Oslo has cobblestones
Russians don't speak English
Swedish people ride alot of bicycles
Amsterdam has a red light district
My associations above are subjective because the fact that I made the statement is because that is the first place I encountered it on my particular journey and not because it is the only place that it is true.
For example, because I went to Iceland I was shocked to see how expensive everything was. In fact towards the end of my visit in Iceland I had become a bit angry about it and spent the last couple days eating cheese and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is interesting is that when I got to Norway - where things cost about the same - I had accepted the situation completely and did not really notice or concern myself too much about it.
Where this comes up is when I meet another traveller who asks me what I thought about Norway - usually I mention that it reminds me of B.C. being a west coast country and a place that I think has lots of things to do... Often, the first thing they mention are the high prices.
When I started writing this blog it was easier to compare everything relative to B.C. This is harder as I learn more on my journey.
The point is that your experiences will differ because your journey will be different. Also I don't really notice or worry anymore if things are expensive, smokey, cobblestoney, foreigny, cycly, or naughty.
New York is smokey
Oslo has cobblestones
Russians don't speak English
Swedish people ride alot of bicycles
Amsterdam has a red light district
My associations above are subjective because the fact that I made the statement is because that is the first place I encountered it on my particular journey and not because it is the only place that it is true.
For example, because I went to Iceland I was shocked to see how expensive everything was. In fact towards the end of my visit in Iceland I had become a bit angry about it and spent the last couple days eating cheese and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is interesting is that when I got to Norway - where things cost about the same - I had accepted the situation completely and did not really notice or concern myself too much about it.
Where this comes up is when I meet another traveller who asks me what I thought about Norway - usually I mention that it reminds me of B.C. being a west coast country and a place that I think has lots of things to do... Often, the first thing they mention are the high prices.
When I started writing this blog it was easier to compare everything relative to B.C. This is harder as I learn more on my journey.
The point is that your experiences will differ because your journey will be different. Also I don't really notice or worry anymore if things are expensive, smokey, cobblestoney, foreigny, cycly, or naughty.
Reggae Christmas in Amsterdam?
On my second day in Amsterdam I went and had a walk around the main centre (called the Dam). Some bandstands had been setup and there were these guys dressed in colourful clothes and had fake black hair and had their faces painted black wearing red lipstick. They were dancing around and singing christmas songs. Later they were rappelling and bouncing off tall buildings in the square as well.
This was pretty surprising because it looked a bit reminicent of Amos and Andy and therefore something unlikely to be seen in North America. Because of the Jamaican theme of many of the coffee shops I actually thought at first that this was a Reggae Christmas!
There were hundreds of families gathering around a parade route and I joined in the wait. While waiting there I talked to a couple Dutch people and found out that - first off to the Dutch I look Norweigian! - and secondly that they celebrate St. Nicolas's day on Dec 6 and that St. Nicolas has a main black helper called Pieter. In their tradition, St. Nicolas rides a white horse and has hundreds of black helpers (like our 'elves') who make the presents, climb up the houses and deliver presents down the chimmney. Pieter is by far the most popular character and is featured in many storefronts and his name is called out continuously by the kids during the parade. Guys who deliver presents are pretty popular.
From what I can gather, originally the 'elves' where Moorish slaves and if you were good, you would be given presents, but if you were bad you would be taken away by the Moors. The current story has been updated so that they are black - not because they are Moors - but because they are covered in soot.
This was pretty surprising because it looked a bit reminicent of Amos and Andy and therefore something unlikely to be seen in North America. Because of the Jamaican theme of many of the coffee shops I actually thought at first that this was a Reggae Christmas!
There were hundreds of families gathering around a parade route and I joined in the wait. While waiting there I talked to a couple Dutch people and found out that - first off to the Dutch I look Norweigian! - and secondly that they celebrate St. Nicolas's day on Dec 6 and that St. Nicolas has a main black helper called Pieter. In their tradition, St. Nicolas rides a white horse and has hundreds of black helpers (like our 'elves') who make the presents, climb up the houses and deliver presents down the chimmney. Pieter is by far the most popular character and is featured in many storefronts and his name is called out continuously by the kids during the parade. Guys who deliver presents are pretty popular.
From what I can gather, originally the 'elves' where Moorish slaves and if you were good, you would be given presents, but if you were bad you would be taken away by the Moors. The current story has been updated so that they are black - not because they are Moors - but because they are covered in soot.
Friday, November 26, 2004
Now in Paris
Took a high speed train to Paris. The train was fast - as we rode next to the highway it reminded me of being on my motorcycle - Then I realized we were going so much faster than that. I think this was the fastest I have travelled on land. I then imagined the fear I would have going that fast on a highway.
This afternoon, I walked past the Louvre, down the Champs D'Elysee with Lemon Crêpe in hand towards the Arc de Triomphe while occasionally checking out the Eiffel Tower through the fog on my left.
Paris is big and expensive. Beautiful because it has canals, greenspace, architecture and art.
This afternoon, I walked past the Louvre, down the Champs D'Elysee with Lemon Crêpe in hand towards the Arc de Triomphe while occasionally checking out the Eiffel Tower through the fog on my left.
Paris is big and expensive. Beautiful because it has canals, greenspace, architecture and art.
Monday, November 22, 2004
now in tintin-land
Now in Brussells. Need to find better pc to post more details. this one is very bad.
Friday, November 19, 2004
Still in Amsterdam, Not in gutter
In case you are wondering why I have not posted lately: I am not in a drug induced haze in a gutter somewhere. Just been busy and haven't had time to post.
I have been to the Vincent Van Gogh museam, the Electric LadyLand, Ann Frank Haus. I also saw Sarah McLaughlan (from Vancouver) play here in Amsterdam.
I will comment in a few days about my roommates in the hostel, drugs, prostitution and Sarah's concert.
I have been to the Vincent Van Gogh museam, the Electric LadyLand, Ann Frank Haus. I also saw Sarah McLaughlan (from Vancouver) play here in Amsterdam.
I will comment in a few days about my roommates in the hostel, drugs, prostitution and Sarah's concert.
Sunday, November 14, 2004
Sat. night in Amsterdam
I walked around a little last night before going to bed. The area around my hostel has lots of 'coffee bars' and lots of stoned people walking around. It is kind of strange and surprising to be walking around in a stoned city.
Continuing east, I noticed a crowd of people jamming a small alley. I had found the red light district. Here there are prostitutes that have rented out small display windows, with a bed in behind who offer themselves for 50 euros. On the other side of the glass are groups of mostly English men - 99% seem to just be leering, though there was one guy that I managed to pass twice in different parts who was trying to negotiate something for 35 euros. This part of the city was far more crowded and, instead of the stoned vibe, had more of a drunken circus-show vibe.
Here is what my menu from the hostel breakfast had to say:
Tips from LaCana:
* Be careful when mixing alcohol and smoking
* Space cake can be heavy if you lack experience
* Don't mix alcohol and mushrooms
* If you feel sick or strange tell the staff and they will help you.
The same was also repeated in Italian or Spanish.
Continuing east, I noticed a crowd of people jamming a small alley. I had found the red light district. Here there are prostitutes that have rented out small display windows, with a bed in behind who offer themselves for 50 euros. On the other side of the glass are groups of mostly English men - 99% seem to just be leering, though there was one guy that I managed to pass twice in different parts who was trying to negotiate something for 35 euros. This part of the city was far more crowded and, instead of the stoned vibe, had more of a drunken circus-show vibe.
Here is what my menu from the hostel breakfast had to say:
Tips from LaCana:
* Be careful when mixing alcohol and smoking
* Space cake can be heavy if you lack experience
* Don't mix alcohol and mushrooms
* If you feel sick or strange tell the staff and they will help you.
The same was also repeated in Italian or Spanish.
Saturday, November 13, 2004
Another Pub Crawl, now in Amsterdam
Before I said I hope we don't buy rounds again... Well Phil, Richard, Mark and I and two girls (Sarah and Marie) we met at the hostel were out until around 6AM last night again. It's pretty tough because the Hostel really kicks you out of your rooms at 10AM in the morning.
So I spent the day travelling and napping my way to Amsterdam. I have been here about 1 hour now. So far a french guy helped me find a full hostel and wanted to show me another. I found one on my own.
The hostel is called 'La Canna' and the clerk at the desk was smoking a big doobie and selling pipes and other drug paraphenalia when I got in. It is midnight here so there is alot of squinty eyed people, pot smelling cafes and munchy stores open.
I am taking it easy tonight.
So I spent the day travelling and napping my way to Amsterdam. I have been here about 1 hour now. So far a french guy helped me find a full hostel and wanted to show me another. I found one on my own.
The hostel is called 'La Canna' and the clerk at the desk was smoking a big doobie and selling pipes and other drug paraphenalia when I got in. It is midnight here so there is alot of squinty eyed people, pot smelling cafes and munchy stores open.
I am taking it easy tonight.
Friday, November 12, 2004
Copenhagen is very nice
After Berlin, I made a quick stop in Hamburg and pressed on to Copenhagen. Copenhagen is very nice and the people here for the most part are very friendly. Because it is north of Germany, I expected it to have some sort of German influence but I was definately wrong about that. Copenhagen is very Scandinavian and very much like Oslo or Sweden. They have lots of 7-11s and french hotdog stands: which reminds me of Oslo.
They are all crazy about bikes here. It is pretty hilarious to see the variety of bikes that they ride, the bicycle traffic and seeing all of the bikes parked infront of their houses like we do with cars back home. At the train station and other popular places there are thousands of bikes parked side by side. Bikes even get junk mail stuck on their panniers (like those little notes you get on your car windshield to get rich making thousands working from home).
Everywhere in the city there are basically two sidewalks: one for bikes and one for pedestrians. The bike lanes have their own little traffic lights. As a pedestrian you have to remember not to just blindly step onto the 'nicer' sidewalk without looking.
Copenhagen is very marine oriented: It is nice to see sailboats and other ships so close to the city. I noticed Alcatel Submarine Networks has an office here and I wondered what they do.
I have been spending the last couple days with a few guys from Derby, England. Last night Phil, Mark, Richard and I went on a bit of a pub crawl. We started out at a gay bar by accident, however it was the nicest bar of the evening. The main event was to go see a blues bar called Mojo. Later we went to go see a Led Zeppelin cover band play across the way. Finally we ended up in an Irish sports pub. We are going out tonight - hopefully we won't be buying rounds like last night.
My next stop is Amsterdam I think. I will decide tomorrow.
They are all crazy about bikes here. It is pretty hilarious to see the variety of bikes that they ride, the bicycle traffic and seeing all of the bikes parked infront of their houses like we do with cars back home. At the train station and other popular places there are thousands of bikes parked side by side. Bikes even get junk mail stuck on their panniers (like those little notes you get on your car windshield to get rich making thousands working from home).
Everywhere in the city there are basically two sidewalks: one for bikes and one for pedestrians. The bike lanes have their own little traffic lights. As a pedestrian you have to remember not to just blindly step onto the 'nicer' sidewalk without looking.
Copenhagen is very marine oriented: It is nice to see sailboats and other ships so close to the city. I noticed Alcatel Submarine Networks has an office here and I wondered what they do.
I have been spending the last couple days with a few guys from Derby, England. Last night Phil, Mark, Richard and I went on a bit of a pub crawl. We started out at a gay bar by accident, however it was the nicest bar of the evening. The main event was to go see a blues bar called Mojo. Later we went to go see a Led Zeppelin cover band play across the way. Finally we ended up in an Irish sports pub. We are going out tonight - hopefully we won't be buying rounds like last night.
My next stop is Amsterdam I think. I will decide tomorrow.
Humbug Hamburg
I was only in Hamburg for half a day. The weather was not very nice so I just walked to the waterfront and checked out their 'like Amsterdam' red light district.
I think Hamburg would be a nice city to visit in the summer. Based on my short visit I was not very impressed.
I think Hamburg would be a nice city to visit in the summer. Based on my short visit I was not very impressed.
Wednesday, November 10, 2004
off to Hamburg... skipping France
I am off to Hamburg today and will go to Copenhagen and Amsterdam after that. I was going to go to France after Amsterdam but I am now thinking of skipping France and going straight to Spain because the weather is miserable and perhaps France will look better (with some snow?) on my way back.
Tuesday, November 09, 2004
Sauna in Germany
Went to the German sauna this evening. Very nice. Sauna was nude and mixed, with bathing suits for the pools and the hot tub. Pretty uneventful (though slightly distracting), except for when I was trying to act casual in the nudy sauna, wrapped myself with my towel, stood up and really bonked my head on the short ceiling on the row I was sitting on while trying to leave. The women suggested something to the effect that my circulation was affected (?).
today is the 15 year anniversary
Today is the 15 year anniversary of the Berlin wall being taken down.
There is nothing exciting really going on right now (2 am)...
I saw one event advertized, but certainly the city has mixed feelings about it or at least does not treat it as something to celebrate.
There is nothing exciting really going on right now (2 am)...
I saw one event advertized, but certainly the city has mixed feelings about it or at least does not treat it as something to celebrate.
Berlin tour
Yesterday, Lilly (Australia), Peter (North England, near Edinborough), Shuna (with Peter) and I went on a tour of East Germany.
We went on the Terry Brewer tour which is the longest one available (10 hours). Terry is an older Englishman with some old fashioned ideas about women and Germans (bloody stupid this and silly those) so it was a bit of a challenge to have to spend the whole day with him and some of his condescending affectations. Overall though the tour was very educational and we all learned alot.
Saw the berlin wall. Most of it is all gone. It is marked in the street with cobblestones though and some places, protected by some fences (you can buy chunks of it for a couple hundred euros if you want). Also saw checkpoint Charlie, which is completly gone, and now put back there (staged) by the museam to make it look like it used to.
Interesting highlights for me of the tour was the amount of security around the Jewish buildings here (each with at least 2 army people and some barricades and cameras.). This was nothing compared to the amount of security around the American and English embassys : At least 6 soldiers with closed streets with huge concrete and iron barriers preventing anything large from getting near the structures at all.
Also what was interesting was the idea of a partitioned Berlin - deep within the Russian occupation zone of Germany. For me the partition did not make sense, but apparently Communism was so clearly wrong for people there was a duty of the Allies to save the East Germans this way. It was an issue of duty according to Terry. I don't like foreign manipulation of sovereign states so I was not ready to give in to his rationale - but I can see his side of the story at least.
There is no evidence presented for Communism and Soviet Communism as being a benefit for the people of Germany.
We went on the Terry Brewer tour which is the longest one available (10 hours). Terry is an older Englishman with some old fashioned ideas about women and Germans (bloody stupid this and silly those) so it was a bit of a challenge to have to spend the whole day with him and some of his condescending affectations. Overall though the tour was very educational and we all learned alot.
Saw the berlin wall. Most of it is all gone. It is marked in the street with cobblestones though and some places, protected by some fences (you can buy chunks of it for a couple hundred euros if you want). Also saw checkpoint Charlie, which is completly gone, and now put back there (staged) by the museam to make it look like it used to.
Interesting highlights for me of the tour was the amount of security around the Jewish buildings here (each with at least 2 army people and some barricades and cameras.). This was nothing compared to the amount of security around the American and English embassys : At least 6 soldiers with closed streets with huge concrete and iron barriers preventing anything large from getting near the structures at all.
Also what was interesting was the idea of a partitioned Berlin - deep within the Russian occupation zone of Germany. For me the partition did not make sense, but apparently Communism was so clearly wrong for people there was a duty of the Allies to save the East Germans this way. It was an issue of duty according to Terry. I don't like foreign manipulation of sovereign states so I was not ready to give in to his rationale - but I can see his side of the story at least.
There is no evidence presented for Communism and Soviet Communism as being a benefit for the people of Germany.
Sunday, November 07, 2004
Berlin
I just got here an hour ago. It is strange to think I am here. So far it feels very big like New York, dark (street lights are dimmer than I am used to) and there is a Starbucks here (first one I have seen so far).
Hofbrauhaus hangover
I am pretty hungover today. Had a great time at the Hofbrauhaus sharing a table right next to the German band with some Brazilians, Germans, Italians, a Korean an American and a couple unknowns. Drinking beers one litre at a time is pretty crazy.
It is raining here in Munich today and the weather forecast has called for snow. I will be taking the train to Berlin this afternoon.
It is raining here in Munich today and the weather forecast has called for snow. I will be taking the train to Berlin this afternoon.
Saturday, November 06, 2004
Walking tour of Munich and FC Bayern Munchen match
I went on a walking tour of Munich this morning. What I learned was:
* Munich used to be the capital of Bavaria when it was it's own country
* Most of the money for Munich came from a monopoly on the Salt trade AKA White Gold in the 1100s
* Alot of the layout of the city now (pedestrian access only downtown) and the subway system were developed in 1971 prior to the Munich Olympics
* At the start of the tour I held a sign that said "walking tour" for the tour guide and attracted 6 more people to our tour. At 10 euros each, I think I could start a business...
On the tour I met a Mexican/San Diego couple that were travelling through Europe in a new Volvo that they bought in Sweden and were going to have it shipped back home used. Apparently this is pretty popular here and I now think that is what the two couples at the Porsche tour were doing as well.
After the tour I went to the Olympic Gardens to go watch a Hannover vs FC Bazern Munchen football game. Very big stadium and area. Going there I felt I was going to a fair and not just a single sporting event. There were 62,000 fans in the stadium for the game.
It was probably the biggest outdoor game I have ever been to. I prefer the hockey arenas because they are more intimate, but this was still a good game in a very cool stadium.
One interesting thing is how there was an announcer or mc for the game who got the fans into it. When the home team took to the field he called out each player's first name and everyone else chanted back their last name.
After a goal...
Announcer (in german): What is the score?
Everyone (64,000 people): "Ein!"
Announcer: "to?"
Everyone: "Nul"
Announcer: "Danke!"
Everyone: "Bitte!"
It was pretty funny!
Bayern Munchen won the game by trei to nul. According to the 10 year old next to me, almost all of the players for Bayern Munchen are on the German National team. I recognized only Oliver Kahn (their keeper) - but I have only seen Germany play once against Brazil in the world cup.
* Munich used to be the capital of Bavaria when it was it's own country
* Most of the money for Munich came from a monopoly on the Salt trade AKA White Gold in the 1100s
* Alot of the layout of the city now (pedestrian access only downtown) and the subway system were developed in 1971 prior to the Munich Olympics
* At the start of the tour I held a sign that said "walking tour" for the tour guide and attracted 6 more people to our tour. At 10 euros each, I think I could start a business...
On the tour I met a Mexican/San Diego couple that were travelling through Europe in a new Volvo that they bought in Sweden and were going to have it shipped back home used. Apparently this is pretty popular here and I now think that is what the two couples at the Porsche tour were doing as well.
After the tour I went to the Olympic Gardens to go watch a Hannover vs FC Bazern Munchen football game. Very big stadium and area. Going there I felt I was going to a fair and not just a single sporting event. There were 62,000 fans in the stadium for the game.
It was probably the biggest outdoor game I have ever been to. I prefer the hockey arenas because they are more intimate, but this was still a good game in a very cool stadium.
One interesting thing is how there was an announcer or mc for the game who got the fans into it. When the home team took to the field he called out each player's first name and everyone else chanted back their last name.
After a goal...
Announcer (in german): What is the score?
Everyone (64,000 people): "Ein!"
Announcer: "to?"
Everyone: "Nul"
Announcer: "Danke!"
Everyone: "Bitte!"
It was pretty funny!
Bayern Munchen won the game by trei to nul. According to the 10 year old next to me, almost all of the players for Bayern Munchen are on the German National team. I recognized only Oliver Kahn (their keeper) - but I have only seen Germany play once against Brazil in the world cup.
Friday, November 05, 2004
Now in Munich
I am now in Munich. Today I went and walked around in the centre of town and checked out main Neuhausen Strasse, the Hofbrauhaus as well as the Viktuahan (sp?) market.
There are a surprising number of people visiting Munich. Surprising because it is a very dark and rainy day and it is over a month since Oktoberfest.
I visited the Hofbrauhaus which is the most famous of the German beer drinking houses. It was mostly full of bloated looking people. I might just be jealous though ... because I did not feel comfortable drinking on my own so I just had a look and took a picture. Perhaps tomorrow, I´ll find someone to go with.
The Viktuahan market was very impressive and a surprise. This market has an amazing selection of tasty things. Tasty things such as all sort of different mushrooms, truffles (the mushroom type), olives, figs, nuts, cheeze, pickles and fresh pasta. I have never seen such a variety of food in such a small place. I think this market would be a major benefit for living here. I was tempted to buy a truffle (the mushroom type) but I wasn´t sure what to do with it. Do you just eat it? It looked like it wanted to be prepared, so I opted for a huge Buffallo Mozzerella ball. Picture someone eating a Mozzeralla like an apple. An apple the size of an orange.
Tomorrow´s plan is to go see their top football team FC Banyern Munchen play and take a walking tour. Football is more German than Hockey, so buying the football ticket made more sense. I hope the weather clears up tho.
There are a surprising number of people visiting Munich. Surprising because it is a very dark and rainy day and it is over a month since Oktoberfest.
I visited the Hofbrauhaus which is the most famous of the German beer drinking houses. It was mostly full of bloated looking people. I might just be jealous though ... because I did not feel comfortable drinking on my own so I just had a look and took a picture. Perhaps tomorrow, I´ll find someone to go with.
The Viktuahan market was very impressive and a surprise. This market has an amazing selection of tasty things. Tasty things such as all sort of different mushrooms, truffles (the mushroom type), olives, figs, nuts, cheeze, pickles and fresh pasta. I have never seen such a variety of food in such a small place. I think this market would be a major benefit for living here. I was tempted to buy a truffle (the mushroom type) but I wasn´t sure what to do with it. Do you just eat it? It looked like it wanted to be prepared, so I opted for a huge Buffallo Mozzerella ball. Picture someone eating a Mozzeralla like an apple. An apple the size of an orange.
Tomorrow´s plan is to go see their top football team FC Banyern Munchen play and take a walking tour. Football is more German than Hockey, so buying the football ticket made more sense. I hope the weather clears up tho.
Janosch and his Tiger Duck in Heilbronn
After Ritter Sport, I took the train to Heilbronn where I was going to meet Jessy (a friend from meet in Vancouver who has returned to Germany).
We were just going to go have dinner, but we saw that there was a gallery opening and thought we should join in. Janosch - a famous German animator - who I have never heard of was there displaying some of his works. His most famous character is this Wooden duck that is painted with tiger stripes.
Anyway we got stuck in the Gallery as the speeches started up. Next time I go to a gallery opening I am going to keep my eye on the exits.
We were just going to go have dinner, but we saw that there was a gallery opening and thought we should join in. Janosch - a famous German animator - who I have never heard of was there displaying some of his works. His most famous character is this Wooden duck that is painted with tiger stripes.
Anyway we got stuck in the Gallery as the speeches started up. Next time I go to a gallery opening I am going to keep my eye on the exits.
Ritter Sport near Stuttgart
After seeing the Porsches being built I went to the Ritter Sport chocolate factory. I discovered Ritter Sport in the local IGA in Burnaby. I like their product and figured it would be cool to see the factory.
The factory was way out in the country side in a town called Waldenbuch. From what I understand about the history of the company, the wife of the founder suggested that he make a chocolate bar in a rectangular shape that fit properly into the pocket of a sport jacket - hence the ´sport´ in Ritter Sport chocolate.
The factory is still constructing a museam right now. What they did have was a few displays about how chocolate is processed and a cheezy kids movie about chocolate and this boy´s sister who found it necessary to pose as some sort of ninja spy to design him a new kind of chocolate for his birthday.
What was interesting for me was to see a cocoa plant, the cocoa fruit and the inside of the cocoa fruits.
The factory was way out in the country side in a town called Waldenbuch. From what I understand about the history of the company, the wife of the founder suggested that he make a chocolate bar in a rectangular shape that fit properly into the pocket of a sport jacket - hence the ´sport´ in Ritter Sport chocolate.
The factory is still constructing a museam right now. What they did have was a few displays about how chocolate is processed and a cheezy kids movie about chocolate and this boy´s sister who found it necessary to pose as some sort of ninja spy to design him a new kind of chocolate for his birthday.
What was interesting for me was to see a cocoa plant, the cocoa fruit and the inside of the cocoa fruits.
Dangerous pretzels
I am now ordering Prezels in German. I know, it is not much but it is a start. I did pretty good yesterday.
I said: "Ein Bretzel, bitte"
The clerk replied with emphasis: "EinE Brezel?"
I said yes.
I was lucky that she asked. Or I might have accidentally ended up with a male pretzel!
I said: "Ein Bretzel, bitte"
The clerk replied with emphasis: "EinE Brezel?"
I said yes.
I was lucky that she asked. Or I might have accidentally ended up with a male pretzel!
Porches in Stuttgart
First I visited the Mercedes museam in Stuttgart. Stuttgart is the headquarters for Daimler Chrysler and is where the automobile was invented. The Mercedes museam was pretty good as it displays the original vehicles that were produced by Daimler and Benz as well as some of their race cars and current cars. There were alot of Japanese tourists here.
For some reason I thought that Germans would all be driving German cars, but that is not the case here. I am not sure if even the majority of cars are German. Maybe... There are alot of Mazdas, Renaults, Peugots, Fords as well.
Stuttgart is a beautiful city. The city centre is encircled by a steep valley. I learned pretty quick how steep it is, because the hostel is located up about 15 minutes of straight stairs (like a quarter grouse grind - say)
On my second day in Stuttgart I went to the Porsche museam and factory tour. The factory tour was very cool:
* At this location they produce about 150 911s a day
* Every station in the car assembly is timed to 5 minutes
* The car engines are each assembled by only one mechanic. The mechanics used to sign the engine, but when Porsche enthusiasts discovered that some mechanics were producing consistely better engines, and were then requesting certain engine mechanics to build their Porches, Porsche put an end to the signitures.
* The factory is very small and compact. The assembly line takes the cars between several different floors (I expected the factory to be all on one floor)
* There are these little robot carts that drive around and were bumping into us on the tour
* All engines for all the cars are built in Stuttgart (except one)
* The workers are required to have about 3 years experience before they are allowed on the assembly line
* All engines are stress tested before being put into the cars. Almost all cars are given road tests prior to delivery
* Porsche is out of real estate and they are operating at capacity in Stuttgart. There are a couple old buildings in the middle of their complex which they are not allowed to tear down and rebuild because of German heritage laws. The VW beetle was designed in these buildings. (Ferdinand Porshe was a famous designer for Mercedes and he then founded Porsche as a design company and, among other things, designed the Bug for VW).
* Two couples (of about 15 people) on our tour had just bought Porshes and had come here to see the assembly. I don´t know if they get to see their Porshes yet.
* The Porsche philosophy is based on the Japanese Kaisen principles:
1. Workers must see the product of their labour
2. Workers must be able to make improvements
Workers are required to suggest improvements and if the improvements are adopted, then the worker gets 30% of the savings earned by the company for one year. The tour guide said that either 3Million or 30Million euros were paid out of this plan last year (I don´t remember which)
* The tour guide was proud of what his CEO was doing.
For some reason I thought that Germans would all be driving German cars, but that is not the case here. I am not sure if even the majority of cars are German. Maybe... There are alot of Mazdas, Renaults, Peugots, Fords as well.
Stuttgart is a beautiful city. The city centre is encircled by a steep valley. I learned pretty quick how steep it is, because the hostel is located up about 15 minutes of straight stairs (like a quarter grouse grind - say)
On my second day in Stuttgart I went to the Porsche museam and factory tour. The factory tour was very cool:
* At this location they produce about 150 911s a day
* Every station in the car assembly is timed to 5 minutes
* The car engines are each assembled by only one mechanic. The mechanics used to sign the engine, but when Porsche enthusiasts discovered that some mechanics were producing consistely better engines, and were then requesting certain engine mechanics to build their Porches, Porsche put an end to the signitures.
* The factory is very small and compact. The assembly line takes the cars between several different floors (I expected the factory to be all on one floor)
* There are these little robot carts that drive around and were bumping into us on the tour
* All engines for all the cars are built in Stuttgart (except one)
* The workers are required to have about 3 years experience before they are allowed on the assembly line
* All engines are stress tested before being put into the cars. Almost all cars are given road tests prior to delivery
* Porsche is out of real estate and they are operating at capacity in Stuttgart. There are a couple old buildings in the middle of their complex which they are not allowed to tear down and rebuild because of German heritage laws. The VW beetle was designed in these buildings. (Ferdinand Porshe was a famous designer for Mercedes and he then founded Porsche as a design company and, among other things, designed the Bug for VW).
* Two couples (of about 15 people) on our tour had just bought Porshes and had come here to see the assembly. I don´t know if they get to see their Porshes yet.
* The Porsche philosophy is based on the Japanese Kaisen principles:
1. Workers must see the product of their labour
2. Workers must be able to make improvements
Workers are required to suggest improvements and if the improvements are adopted, then the worker gets 30% of the savings earned by the company for one year. The tour guide said that either 3Million or 30Million euros were paid out of this plan last year (I don´t remember which)
* The tour guide was proud of what his CEO was doing.
Trip to Darmstadt
On the way to Darmstadt, I sat next to an Architect who worked in Berlin and in Frankfurt (and had a girlfriend in Dresden). We talked about a few things.
One was the difference between East and West Germans. His opinion was that right now East Germany is being used to soften the west German unions. i.e. if the West Germans do not agree to terms than work is moved East. He also mentioned that for East Germans things have been difficult in three areas:
1. Trust. The GDR was not a very good environment to live in and people did not trust each other. One of his close friends was being spied on by a climbing friend of his that was working for the Stasi. This mistrust of others is still part of the East German culture. This manifests itself in business where East Germans do not want anything in writing. They prefer all agreements to be verbal, therefore harder to be tracked.
2. Savings. East Germans do not have any savings. What this means is that compared to West Germans they are very insecure about their jobs and position. Under communism you did not have to have money saved in case of hard times, like you do in a capitalist society.
3. Inheritence and inherited money. Similar to number 2 - East Germans do not have family money that the West Germans do.
He was a pretty interesting guy and was very interested in things that were timeless. For example, doors are timeless according to him. His Apple IMac that died completly was not timeless. He got rid of his TV years ago and is now memorizing poetry in his spare time. (Poetry being more timeless than TV)
One was the difference between East and West Germans. His opinion was that right now East Germany is being used to soften the west German unions. i.e. if the West Germans do not agree to terms than work is moved East. He also mentioned that for East Germans things have been difficult in three areas:
1. Trust. The GDR was not a very good environment to live in and people did not trust each other. One of his close friends was being spied on by a climbing friend of his that was working for the Stasi. This mistrust of others is still part of the East German culture. This manifests itself in business where East Germans do not want anything in writing. They prefer all agreements to be verbal, therefore harder to be tracked.
2. Savings. East Germans do not have any savings. What this means is that compared to West Germans they are very insecure about their jobs and position. Under communism you did not have to have money saved in case of hard times, like you do in a capitalist society.
3. Inheritence and inherited money. Similar to number 2 - East Germans do not have family money that the West Germans do.
He was a pretty interesting guy and was very interested in things that were timeless. For example, doors are timeless according to him. His Apple IMac that died completly was not timeless. He got rid of his TV years ago and is now memorizing poetry in his spare time. (Poetry being more timeless than TV)
Visiting Alexandra in Darmstadt
After Leipsig, I took the train to Darmstadt which is near where Alexandra lives. Alexandra is a friend that I met this year while doing the west coast trail.
Getting a hold of Alexandra was a bit complicated. Alexandra was not at home when I called and her parents number her parents did not speak English.
I was able to get the clerk at the phone centre to translate for me and we agreed that I should call back at 8. In the meantime, I went and did my laundry.
When I finished my laundry and got back to the hostel, the hostel clerk asked if I was Sean and when I said yes, she said that she had a funny story to tell. While I was out, Alexandra called for me and the clerks went to go look for the ´Canadian´ (Alex asked for Sean, but they translated that into the Canadian). Anyway, through these translations, they went and accidentally got an Englishman (John) to come and answer the phone. Apparently John and Alexandra talked on the phone for 5 or 10 minutes!
Naturally, later that evening, John, Alexandra and I went out to dinner together.
Getting a hold of Alexandra was a bit complicated. Alexandra was not at home when I called and her parents number her parents did not speak English.
I was able to get the clerk at the phone centre to translate for me and we agreed that I should call back at 8. In the meantime, I went and did my laundry.
When I finished my laundry and got back to the hostel, the hostel clerk asked if I was Sean and when I said yes, she said that she had a funny story to tell. While I was out, Alexandra called for me and the clerks went to go look for the ´Canadian´ (Alex asked for Sean, but they translated that into the Canadian). Anyway, through these translations, they went and accidentally got an Englishman (John) to come and answer the phone. Apparently John and Alexandra talked on the phone for 5 or 10 minutes!
Naturally, later that evening, John, Alexandra and I went out to dinner together.
Matt and Amanda in Leipsig
I did meet Matt from Winnipeg and Amanda from Sacramento while in the Hostel. Amanda and I went to the Bach Museum, the Stasi Museam (German Secret Police) and the GDR museam. The GDR museam was very cool especially considering it was free.
Bach spent his latter years in Leipsig and raised his family there. He was quite prolific. He had 20 kids from two marriages. Bach is now buried in the Altar of the Thomaskilne church in the centre of Leipsig.
Amanda was an interesting person to meet. She is 17 years old and had no money. Because I wanted to go to the Bach museum, I insisted on paying for her. When she left to go to Paris, the hostel woman gave her some free food. At the last second when Matt and I walked her to the train, Matt gave her 5 Euros to buy something to eat.
After Amanda left, Matt and I went to the Auerbachs Keller Restaurant which is famous because it was a favourite of Goethe and is featured in the opening act of Faust. Being halloween night, it seemed to be semi appropriate as there are many paintings of Damocles there.
Bach spent his latter years in Leipsig and raised his family there. He was quite prolific. He had 20 kids from two marriages. Bach is now buried in the Altar of the Thomaskilne church in the centre of Leipsig.
Amanda was an interesting person to meet. She is 17 years old and had no money. Because I wanted to go to the Bach museum, I insisted on paying for her. When she left to go to Paris, the hostel woman gave her some free food. At the last second when Matt and I walked her to the train, Matt gave her 5 Euros to buy something to eat.
After Amanda left, Matt and I went to the Auerbachs Keller Restaurant which is famous because it was a favourite of Goethe and is featured in the opening act of Faust. Being halloween night, it seemed to be semi appropriate as there are many paintings of Damocles there.
Leipsig and German hostels
Ok. First it is not pronounced Lip Sig. It is pronounced Lype Sitch. I have had about four people explain to me how it is pronounced and when the g suffix is pronounced as a ch in German. Now you know.
I got to the hostel fairly late. I had planned to go to Berlin but ended up here because I missed the train. This hostel, like the one in Dresden, was primarily occupied by Germans. A couple German families that looked like they were travelling together and a group of german students. That there are ´locals´ in the hostel is something very different to Germany compared to other countries I have visited. In fact, in none of the hostels I have been in to date (man - it has to be over 15 by now) I cannot recall meeting anyone who was staying there that was the same country. Everyone has been from foreign countries and speaking English in the hostel. Here German is much more popular. Alex told me that the Germans invented the hostel concept so that is why it is quite popular with Germans. Because I am actually writing this in the future, I know now that the official hostels are frequented by a higher percentage of Germans than the independent ones.
I think this difference is interesting. Normally I would not think of a hostel as a place to bring a family, however I have seen it done here in Leipsig.
I got to the hostel fairly late. I had planned to go to Berlin but ended up here because I missed the train. This hostel, like the one in Dresden, was primarily occupied by Germans. A couple German families that looked like they were travelling together and a group of german students. That there are ´locals´ in the hostel is something very different to Germany compared to other countries I have visited. In fact, in none of the hostels I have been in to date (man - it has to be over 15 by now) I cannot recall meeting anyone who was staying there that was the same country. Everyone has been from foreign countries and speaking English in the hostel. Here German is much more popular. Alex told me that the Germans invented the hostel concept so that is why it is quite popular with Germans. Because I am actually writing this in the future, I know now that the official hostels are frequented by a higher percentage of Germans than the independent ones.
I think this difference is interesting. Normally I would not think of a hostel as a place to bring a family, however I have seen it done here in Leipsig.
Saturday, October 30, 2004
Hello from Leipzig (Germany)
I missed my train to Berlin because the trams took longer than expected to get to the station in Dresden. So I took the next train that sounded like it was going somewhere interesting... Leipzig! I guess I'm now 'surfing' with my rail pass.
Hello from Dresden (Germany)
I left Prague yesterday. Still feeling a bit hungover from the "Room 5 on tour" escapades that Kaz, Nigel, Michelle, Korin and I got into while in Prague and then in Chesky Krumlov. We are called "Room 5" because we all met in Room 5 of the Elf hostel in Prague and did a bunch of things (partying, hockey, checsky krumlov, hanging out, frisbee, ultimate, cards and theatre sports) together.
I'm now shifting back to travelling on my own in Dresden, Germany and I'm re-adjusting to the requirement that I make my own mind up about what to do next. I'm thinking of going to Berlin or Munich - assuming I can get a train tonight.
The Neustadt neighbourhood of Dresden is very cool. Tons of young people hanging around in the streets, in and out of the clubs and the ever present Kebap restaurants. Being the hip and happening traveller I went to bed at around 10pm.
I woke up to see that there was a beautiful blonde in the next bed. Nice surprise! She and her friend (behind my head) was in for some sort of hip-hop and jazz fusion concert last night and didn't get in until late. I didn't wake up at all.
Dresden looks like many other European cities with huge old and impressive buildings along the Elbe river. The buildings all look very black, except for the brightly polished copper stars or moons at the end of spires on the buildings.
My ideas for things to see in Germany are: Porsche factory, a chocolate factory (Ritter Sport?), Berlin Wall and perhaps a football game.
I'm now shifting back to travelling on my own in Dresden, Germany and I'm re-adjusting to the requirement that I make my own mind up about what to do next. I'm thinking of going to Berlin or Munich - assuming I can get a train tonight.
The Neustadt neighbourhood of Dresden is very cool. Tons of young people hanging around in the streets, in and out of the clubs and the ever present Kebap restaurants. Being the hip and happening traveller I went to bed at around 10pm.
I woke up to see that there was a beautiful blonde in the next bed. Nice surprise! She and her friend (behind my head) was in for some sort of hip-hop and jazz fusion concert last night and didn't get in until late. I didn't wake up at all.
Dresden looks like many other European cities with huge old and impressive buildings along the Elbe river. The buildings all look very black, except for the brightly polished copper stars or moons at the end of spires on the buildings.
My ideas for things to see in Germany are: Porsche factory, a chocolate factory (Ritter Sport?), Berlin Wall and perhaps a football game.
Wednesday, October 27, 2004
Hello from Chesky Krumlov
Hello from Chesky Krumlov. I've been here for the last couple days with Koren and Michelle from Canada, Nigel and Mass from England and Kaz from Australia. Yesterday we went and played Ultimate in a park and then charades in an open air stadium. Today I think most of us all all going back to Prague.
No robberies or major incidents to report yet.
No robberies or major incidents to report yet.
Sunday, October 24, 2004
Prague Rocks!
Having a great time in Prague. Last night a ton of people from the hostel went to a five story club with different dance floors on each. Got back home after 5AM.
Today I went to go see a hockey game and 5 others from the hostel wanted to go too, so I arranged the tickets. A great game I think. Petr Nedved (who used to play for the Canucks) scored two goals. The game and the setup was similar to other european games I've seen: cheerleaders, fan sections. Beer was cheap: about $1.10 Canadian for a beer.
I'm going on a trip tomorrow with these 5. I forget what it is called, so I'll have to post that later.
Today I went to go see a hockey game and 5 others from the hostel wanted to go too, so I arranged the tickets. A great game I think. Petr Nedved (who used to play for the Canucks) scored two goals. The game and the setup was similar to other european games I've seen: cheerleaders, fan sections. Beer was cheap: about $1.10 Canadian for a beer.
I'm going on a trip tomorrow with these 5. I forget what it is called, so I'll have to post that later.
Saturday, October 23, 2004
Hello from Prague! (and train robbery)
Hello from Prague!
Today is an awesome day here. The sun is shining and it is warm enough to wear a T-shirt around town. The city is bigger than I expected and quite beautiful. I went and saw St. Basil's cathedral and went up the Petrinska Rozhledra Tower which are separated by a beautiful Mala Strana park.
The tourists in town are very different than the ones encountered before. Much more fashionable and smell good. Probably alot of honeymooners. And people with oversize sunglasses.
Last night I took the night train to get here. The lonely planet and some other tourists warned about stories of the cabins being filled with sleeping gas and thieves rifling through posessions. Some people suggested that it happened mostly on the Polish side of the border.
Anyway, when I got to my cabin, I met a Czech there named Looba who was returning from a week of work at his companies division in Poland. He had not heard of these gassings, but this was his first week on the train. We did lock the room up and in fact I almost fell out of my top bunk when trying to open it in the middle of the night when the customs guy came to check our passports.
I was surprised that at 6:30 this morning that the conductor opened our door and was asking for our passports and wallets. Our cabin had been broken into! Looba's jacket was missing. I did not notice any of my possessions missing. Looba showed me in the door where they had separated the rubber seals so that they could get access to the chain. I don't think we were gassed, I think the theives opened up the door quickly and snatched the first small, good thing they could find which was his jacket (and fortunately for me - not my daypack or pants which was in the corner above my head).
The conducter did recover his jacket with Looba's ID, but his cash was gone. About 150 CDN worth of Polish currency. I felt bad and Looba wasn't too upset but he may have been in shock. It was nice and a bit surprising to me that they only took his cash. If it had happened to me, I wouldn't have minded the cash being gone as much as my passort and recently re-aquired ATM card (thanks to my Dad who was able to pick one up from CIBC and Fedex to me in Warsaw).
I had heard that people have used belts as additional protection to try and keep the cabins closed on Russian trains. I think on my next night train, I'm doing something else (like a combo lock or small bike chain or alarm) that should slow the thieves down enough to get the attention of the car attendant. The conductor told Looba that there are gangs operating on these trains and trains to Bratislava (I think it was Bratislava) and that this usually happens once a day.
I met a couple English guys (Nigel and Mara) this morning and we may be going to go see a hockey game together tomorrow. They originally were going to go see a soccer game, but are now keen on hockey - they just need to make a final decision on whether or not to spend the extra day here. I met a couple Aussies last night who recommened a two day tour out and around Prague, so I may do that on Monday.
Today is an awesome day here. The sun is shining and it is warm enough to wear a T-shirt around town. The city is bigger than I expected and quite beautiful. I went and saw St. Basil's cathedral and went up the Petrinska Rozhledra Tower which are separated by a beautiful Mala Strana park.
The tourists in town are very different than the ones encountered before. Much more fashionable and smell good. Probably alot of honeymooners. And people with oversize sunglasses.
Last night I took the night train to get here. The lonely planet and some other tourists warned about stories of the cabins being filled with sleeping gas and thieves rifling through posessions. Some people suggested that it happened mostly on the Polish side of the border.
Anyway, when I got to my cabin, I met a Czech there named Looba who was returning from a week of work at his companies division in Poland. He had not heard of these gassings, but this was his first week on the train. We did lock the room up and in fact I almost fell out of my top bunk when trying to open it in the middle of the night when the customs guy came to check our passports.
I was surprised that at 6:30 this morning that the conductor opened our door and was asking for our passports and wallets. Our cabin had been broken into! Looba's jacket was missing. I did not notice any of my possessions missing. Looba showed me in the door where they had separated the rubber seals so that they could get access to the chain. I don't think we were gassed, I think the theives opened up the door quickly and snatched the first small, good thing they could find which was his jacket (and fortunately for me - not my daypack or pants which was in the corner above my head).
The conducter did recover his jacket with Looba's ID, but his cash was gone. About 150 CDN worth of Polish currency. I felt bad and Looba wasn't too upset but he may have been in shock. It was nice and a bit surprising to me that they only took his cash. If it had happened to me, I wouldn't have minded the cash being gone as much as my passort and recently re-aquired ATM card (thanks to my Dad who was able to pick one up from CIBC and Fedex to me in Warsaw).
I had heard that people have used belts as additional protection to try and keep the cabins closed on Russian trains. I think on my next night train, I'm doing something else (like a combo lock or small bike chain or alarm) that should slow the thieves down enough to get the attention of the car attendant. The conductor told Looba that there are gangs operating on these trains and trains to Bratislava (I think it was Bratislava) and that this usually happens once a day.
I met a couple English guys (Nigel and Mara) this morning and we may be going to go see a hockey game together tomorrow. They originally were going to go see a soccer game, but are now keen on hockey - they just need to make a final decision on whether or not to spend the extra day here. I met a couple Aussies last night who recommened a two day tour out and around Prague, so I may do that on Monday.
Thursday, October 21, 2004
tomorrow's plan
Probably going to the Tratras mountain range tomorrow with Amelie and Eric. After that, Prague or Slovania!
Went to Auschwitz today
Today I went to Auschwitz with Eric and Amelie: A couple new Canadian friends from Montreal that I met last night at the hostel.
My expectation was that it would be a couple buildings on a site somewhere near a town.
Actually, it (there are actually 3 Auschwitz sites) is quite huge with over 400 buildings not including the set of gas chambers, crematoriums and ash pits.
The size of the compounds was the biggest surprise for me. One site was reported to be holding 100,000 people at one location and it looks plausible based on the size of this site.
Other than that, the following had the biggest impacts:
1. The layout maps of the gas chamber which showed the engineering and design that went into doing such evil as efficiently as possible. i.e. the staging areas where the victims would strip their clothes, the gas chamber, the area where they would recover gold fillings etc, the crematoriums and the ash pits formed a bit of a pipeline so that they could process up to 1000 people this way in each of their facilities (4 in parallel at the Birkenaw site.)
2. The Nazi picture which showed the rows of crematoriums that were inside the execution chambers. The chambers have been destroyed somewhat, but the Nazi's kept pictures of the facilities which show vivid details of their facilities.
3. The two ton collection collection of women's hair in the museum. Basically there is a huge 30 foot long by 10 foot high pile of hair behind glass (and preserved with what smells like mothballs) on display. This hair was used to create fabric to support the Reich. There was also a sign which indicated that they have tested the hair and it does contain some level of cyanide which supports the notion that it came from people killed within the gas chambers.
4. The collection of people's shoes. There are three mountains of shoes also on display. Some fancy high heels, some childrens shoes, mostly basic black leather shoes.
Visiting the site was strange because I spent alot of the time trying to figure it out. At the start, actually I was trying to find my own evidence. Later, I was trying to sort out what it meant at the time and what a place like this means today. For example, later in the afternoon, the sun came out and Aushwitz actually looked beautiful.
On display in one of the museaums was the following quote from Adolf Hitler: "I freed Germany from the stupid and degrading fallacies of conscience, morality... we will train young people whom the world will tremble. I want young people capable of violence, imperious, relentless, cruel."
My expectation was that it would be a couple buildings on a site somewhere near a town.
Actually, it (there are actually 3 Auschwitz sites) is quite huge with over 400 buildings not including the set of gas chambers, crematoriums and ash pits.
The size of the compounds was the biggest surprise for me. One site was reported to be holding 100,000 people at one location and it looks plausible based on the size of this site.
Other than that, the following had the biggest impacts:
1. The layout maps of the gas chamber which showed the engineering and design that went into doing such evil as efficiently as possible. i.e. the staging areas where the victims would strip their clothes, the gas chamber, the area where they would recover gold fillings etc, the crematoriums and the ash pits formed a bit of a pipeline so that they could process up to 1000 people this way in each of their facilities (4 in parallel at the Birkenaw site.)
2. The Nazi picture which showed the rows of crematoriums that were inside the execution chambers. The chambers have been destroyed somewhat, but the Nazi's kept pictures of the facilities which show vivid details of their facilities.
3. The two ton collection collection of women's hair in the museum. Basically there is a huge 30 foot long by 10 foot high pile of hair behind glass (and preserved with what smells like mothballs) on display. This hair was used to create fabric to support the Reich. There was also a sign which indicated that they have tested the hair and it does contain some level of cyanide which supports the notion that it came from people killed within the gas chambers.
4. The collection of people's shoes. There are three mountains of shoes also on display. Some fancy high heels, some childrens shoes, mostly basic black leather shoes.
Visiting the site was strange because I spent alot of the time trying to figure it out. At the start, actually I was trying to find my own evidence. Later, I was trying to sort out what it meant at the time and what a place like this means today. For example, later in the afternoon, the sun came out and Aushwitz actually looked beautiful.
On display in one of the museaums was the following quote from Adolf Hitler: "I freed Germany from the stupid and degrading fallacies of conscience, morality... we will train young people whom the world will tremble. I want young people capable of violence, imperious, relentless, cruel."
Tuesday, October 19, 2004
Going to Auschwitz tomorrow
Sounds weird, eh? I was wondering today if it is appropriate to even visit there.
Usually when I go to a place I go to learn enjoy or celebrate their history or culture. Now this place is a bit different. Would you go?
Usually when I go to a place I go to learn enjoy or celebrate their history or culture. Now this place is a bit different. Would you go?
Monday, October 18, 2004
Hello from Warsaw
Just got into Warsaw this evening. Long bus ride from Villenus, Lithuania to get here.
I'm still working on communication skills. I went to buy a kebab from the local vendor (there are turkish restaurants all over Europe):
* I asked the girl in front of me if she normally has the number 1: shishkebab and she assured me that, yes, this is the number 1 shishkebab restaurant in Warsaw
* I ordered the number 2 item: the super shishkebab, but the guy charged me 14 zlots (about 6 dollars) instead of 7 zlots. I figured out why later when I had a shishkebab in each hand trying to eat them double fisted while walking down the main street.
I'm still working on communication skills. I went to buy a kebab from the local vendor (there are turkish restaurants all over Europe):
* I asked the girl in front of me if she normally has the number 1: shishkebab and she assured me that, yes, this is the number 1 shishkebab restaurant in Warsaw
* I ordered the number 2 item: the super shishkebab, but the guy charged me 14 zlots (about 6 dollars) instead of 7 zlots. I figured out why later when I had a shishkebab in each hand trying to eat them double fisted while walking down the main street.
Friday, October 15, 2004
Communication skills
Since travelling to Russia, I've increased my travelling communication skills.
Scandinavia was too easy. It was easiest to just speak English and most people there could understand you well - their english being far superior to my Norweigian, Swedish or Finnish. In Russia and the Baltics, English is not so well understood so I've learned.
So I've progressed to stage three...
Stage one is:
Speaking English. Looking for English people. Doing charades with the locals.
Stage two is:
More games. Don't just stop at Charades, play Pictionary and do Fill in the blanks!
For example, at the train station in Riga I said "Engleski?" and the clerk said no, then as she went to read her book ... I pulled out my notebook which I had carefully built up a game of fill in the blank mixed with pictionary!
The fill in the blank was stuff I could get from my Europe on a shoe string guide:
e.g. Atiesanas laiks vilciens Riga->Vilinus sodien? ____________
(What time is the train from here to Villenus today?)
And the pictionary part was a two part sketch of a stick man sitting down, then sleeping - used so I could ask for a sleeping bunk or perhaps to proposition someone.
In this case, the lady told me that that train didn't run anymore. While I didn't get what I wanted, it was interesting in two ways. One I got my message across and second... she answered in English.
Stage three:
I don't know if this is stage three or not, as I arrived at this scheme at around the same time as stage two... Anyway, I now have common words written on my left hand. Mostly I use the word thank you alot. "Paldies" in Latvian and "Aciu" in Lithuanian. It works pretty well and some find it funny that I've got it written on my hand.
Alot of the time I think I should be saying sorry, but that isn't in my book. I guess it was not written by a Canadian.
Scandinavia was too easy. It was easiest to just speak English and most people there could understand you well - their english being far superior to my Norweigian, Swedish or Finnish. In Russia and the Baltics, English is not so well understood so I've learned.
So I've progressed to stage three...
Stage one is:
Speaking English. Looking for English people. Doing charades with the locals.
Stage two is:
More games. Don't just stop at Charades, play Pictionary and do Fill in the blanks!
For example, at the train station in Riga I said "Engleski?" and the clerk said no, then as she went to read her book ... I pulled out my notebook which I had carefully built up a game of fill in the blank mixed with pictionary!
The fill in the blank was stuff I could get from my Europe on a shoe string guide:
e.g. Atiesanas laiks vilciens Riga->Vilinus sodien? ____________
(What time is the train from here to Villenus today?)
And the pictionary part was a two part sketch of a stick man sitting down, then sleeping - used so I could ask for a sleeping bunk or perhaps to proposition someone.
In this case, the lady told me that that train didn't run anymore. While I didn't get what I wanted, it was interesting in two ways. One I got my message across and second... she answered in English.
Stage three:
I don't know if this is stage three or not, as I arrived at this scheme at around the same time as stage two... Anyway, I now have common words written on my left hand. Mostly I use the word thank you alot. "Paldies" in Latvian and "Aciu" in Lithuanian. It works pretty well and some find it funny that I've got it written on my hand.
Alot of the time I think I should be saying sorry, but that isn't in my book. I guess it was not written by a Canadian.
Welcome to Villenus, Lithuania
I arrived in Villenus last night and have spent about a day here. I went to one of the three genocide museums in town this morning, so I can tell I'm getting closer to WWII land. I mentioned before that I thought the Latvians resented the Russian presence more than the German one (perhaps because the German one was much shorter).
For Lithuania I feel that things are a bit more current - that is I feel that there might be more anti-semitic or skin-head activity going on so these museums and other Jewish presence is here to combat it. This is just an impression I get: I may be completly wrong on this.
Anyway, where Latvia was complaining about being occupied by the Russians and Germans, the Lithuanians had the same, plus they were occupied by the Poles at one point as well!
The town of Villenus is a bit like Tallin (blocks of boutique stores separated by pubs, bars, casinos or strip tieze bars) but more spread out. Riga is much more beautiful than Villenus: Any city with canals running through the middle of it like Riga, St. Petersburg and Stockholm makes a pretty city.
Me? I've got a cold so I'm taking it easy today. Tomorrow I'll go to Kaunas in Lithuania or take the long bus to Warsaw.
For Lithuania I feel that things are a bit more current - that is I feel that there might be more anti-semitic or skin-head activity going on so these museums and other Jewish presence is here to combat it. This is just an impression I get: I may be completly wrong on this.
Anyway, where Latvia was complaining about being occupied by the Russians and Germans, the Lithuanians had the same, plus they were occupied by the Poles at one point as well!
The town of Villenus is a bit like Tallin (blocks of boutique stores separated by pubs, bars, casinos or strip tieze bars) but more spread out. Riga is much more beautiful than Villenus: Any city with canals running through the middle of it like Riga, St. Petersburg and Stockholm makes a pretty city.
Me? I've got a cold so I'm taking it easy today. Tomorrow I'll go to Kaunas in Lithuania or take the long bus to Warsaw.
Sick day in Riga
My last day in Riga was spent in bed and not in a good way. I have cold.
Well anyway, you may be interested to hear that they have Ren and Stimpy, South Park, Punk'd etc in English. Sponge Bob Squarepants can speak Latvian and the Simpsons speak German. Also David Beckham is on every second station complaining about his ribs.
They had that spanish movie "Et tu Madre?" I think that is what it is called on TV too. Which surprised me a bit because it is pretty racy.
Well anyway, you may be interested to hear that they have Ren and Stimpy, South Park, Punk'd etc in English. Sponge Bob Squarepants can speak Latvian and the Simpsons speak German. Also David Beckham is on every second station complaining about his ribs.
They had that spanish movie "Et tu Madre?" I think that is what it is called on TV too. Which surprised me a bit because it is pretty racy.
Signing Hockey Autographs in Latvia
Almost my last night in Latvia, I travelled to a small town called Ogre to watch the local team play against one of the only two 'real' teams in Latvia.
The rink was very small and the crowd was very local. I heard that Karlis Skrastins and Darby Hendriksons from the NHL were playing so I thought it would be neat to see them.
At one point I decided to poke my camera through a hole in the netting and take a couple pictures. When I looked down, I was surrounded by about 7 ten year old kids. One with long blond hair asked me something in Latvian and I responded with "Engleski?" (Speak english?). They left excitedly only to come back and ask in broken English to see if I had come to see Darby. I said yes and they pointed him out to me as well as Skrastich who was sitting two rows behind me wearing goofy looking cornrows. (At least I assume that was Skrastich - Everyone else had the russian style buzz cuts, so he did stand out a bit).
They were very cute and some had these black marker pens and would crowd the players bench, presumably looking for autographs.
Three of them asked me for my autograph. I don't know why - perhaps they imagined I was some sort of scout from the NHL. So I signed two programs and one picture of Darby Hendrikson "Sean from Canada". I should have written something more personal or funny ("keep your stick on the ice" , "nice game eh?", or something) but I hadn't been asked to sign autographs before and therefore didn't have my own catch phrases ready.
The rink was very small and the crowd was very local. I heard that Karlis Skrastins and Darby Hendriksons from the NHL were playing so I thought it would be neat to see them.
At one point I decided to poke my camera through a hole in the netting and take a couple pictures. When I looked down, I was surrounded by about 7 ten year old kids. One with long blond hair asked me something in Latvian and I responded with "Engleski?" (Speak english?). They left excitedly only to come back and ask in broken English to see if I had come to see Darby. I said yes and they pointed him out to me as well as Skrastich who was sitting two rows behind me wearing goofy looking cornrows. (At least I assume that was Skrastich - Everyone else had the russian style buzz cuts, so he did stand out a bit).
They were very cute and some had these black marker pens and would crowd the players bench, presumably looking for autographs.
Three of them asked me for my autograph. I don't know why - perhaps they imagined I was some sort of scout from the NHL. So I signed two programs and one picture of Darby Hendrikson "Sean from Canada". I should have written something more personal or funny ("keep your stick on the ice" , "nice game eh?", or something) but I hadn't been asked to sign autographs before and therefore didn't have my own catch phrases ready.
Tuesday, October 12, 2004
Svieki from Riga (Latvia)
Hello from Latvia. I took the bus here from Tallin yesterday noon. The impression I had of Tallin was that it was a pure tourist town, but I don't think that is 100% true. The parts of Estonia and Latvia that I have travelled in so far all appear to be prospering quickly. If my measure of prosperity is accurate.
Well I look at the cars they drive...is that an accurate measure of prosperity???. Anyway everyone drives better cars than me. Same as in Canada, though. Anyway I saw lots of nice Mercedes, SUVs, Volvos, Peugots, Suzukis, Skodas, Dodge Minivans, Mitusubishis, 1 Hummer, Opels, Citroens, Toyotas, Mazdas, Kias, Lexus and Serts on my trip between Tallin and Riga.
The Latvian country side was beautiful. Picture riding along the highway passing reds, yellows and fading green leaves on the trees in front of small quaint single story farm houses in a row. Some leaves shine briliantly as the setting sun breaks through the filter of the trees on the other side of the road. You can see the Gulf of Riga shining through the other side of the trees.
Riga itself is a big flat and pretty city with canals and trees changing their colours. As we enter the outskirts of Riga (still one hour away from the bus stop), you could sense the excitement on the bus.
This morning I went to a Museum of Latvian Occupation which explains the occupation of Latvia by Russian and German forces from 1940s to 1990. What is interesting to me is that there is more resentment towards the Russian occupation than the German one. In fact, when the Germans where invading Latvia during WWII many Latvians welcomed them, hoping that they would help Latvia become independent from Russia.
The city does have Russian and Scandinavian influences. I notice that alot of the women walk arm in arm here (Russian influence), the stores and candy are the same as in Scandinavia (Stockmanns and Narvesi). Also the lineups are very scandinavian: you don't line up in banks or other places. You go to a machine and get a number. When your number comes up, you walk to your till. I had gotten used to this in Sweden/Finland and was shocked - I'd forgotten what to do - when I had to face big lineups in Russian bus depots.
My money situation is better now. I figured out that I can just go to a bank and get cash advances from my Visa card. I thought I needed a PIN to do this, but turns out I was wrong. All I needed to do was pay a 3% commision (less than 2 dollars so I can have 60 dollars cash is a good deal for me right now!) Anyway I'm quite happy that I have some Latvian money. The first thing I did was to buy some candy!
Tonight I'm thinking of going to go see a hockey game here. It means travelling to a small town called Ogre (really!). If so, I need to go catch a train in about 40 minutes. Apparently Karlis Skrastins and Hendrinksons from the NHL are playing for "RIGA 2000" tonight.
Tonight or tomorrow I'm going to Villenus, Lithuania.
Well I look at the cars they drive...is that an accurate measure of prosperity???. Anyway everyone drives better cars than me. Same as in Canada, though. Anyway I saw lots of nice Mercedes, SUVs, Volvos, Peugots, Suzukis, Skodas, Dodge Minivans, Mitusubishis, 1 Hummer, Opels, Citroens, Toyotas, Mazdas, Kias, Lexus and Serts on my trip between Tallin and Riga.
The Latvian country side was beautiful. Picture riding along the highway passing reds, yellows and fading green leaves on the trees in front of small quaint single story farm houses in a row. Some leaves shine briliantly as the setting sun breaks through the filter of the trees on the other side of the road. You can see the Gulf of Riga shining through the other side of the trees.
Riga itself is a big flat and pretty city with canals and trees changing their colours. As we enter the outskirts of Riga (still one hour away from the bus stop), you could sense the excitement on the bus.
This morning I went to a Museum of Latvian Occupation which explains the occupation of Latvia by Russian and German forces from 1940s to 1990. What is interesting to me is that there is more resentment towards the Russian occupation than the German one. In fact, when the Germans where invading Latvia during WWII many Latvians welcomed them, hoping that they would help Latvia become independent from Russia.
The city does have Russian and Scandinavian influences. I notice that alot of the women walk arm in arm here (Russian influence), the stores and candy are the same as in Scandinavia (Stockmanns and Narvesi). Also the lineups are very scandinavian: you don't line up in banks or other places. You go to a machine and get a number. When your number comes up, you walk to your till. I had gotten used to this in Sweden/Finland and was shocked - I'd forgotten what to do - when I had to face big lineups in Russian bus depots.
My money situation is better now. I figured out that I can just go to a bank and get cash advances from my Visa card. I thought I needed a PIN to do this, but turns out I was wrong. All I needed to do was pay a 3% commision (less than 2 dollars so I can have 60 dollars cash is a good deal for me right now!) Anyway I'm quite happy that I have some Latvian money. The first thing I did was to buy some candy!
Tonight I'm thinking of going to go see a hockey game here. It means travelling to a small town called Ogre (really!). If so, I need to go catch a train in about 40 minutes. Apparently Karlis Skrastins and Hendrinksons from the NHL are playing for "RIGA 2000" tonight.
Tonight or tomorrow I'm going to Villenus, Lithuania.
Sunday, October 10, 2004
Welcome to Estonia
With a name like Estonia and the fact it is one of the Baltic states, I did not expect much. Well I don't know much and with a name like Estonia, and knowing that it is an East European country, you might expect a bit of a Stone age country. Or at least thats what I guy I know expected.
Anyway, Estonia *TALLIN I should say* is nothing like that. It is very modern, extremely touristy, very well paved and very well kept. You know, when I was in Russia I was begging for some sort of tourist information centre. I never found one there. Well I got my wish. But like most wishes, you have to be careful.
Tallin is way too touristy. I cannot separtate the staged from the authentic. There are 100s of stores like Esprit and Zara. Lots of English restaurants selling English breakfasts and tons of Casinos (there were tons of Casinos in Russia, BTW) and maybe a dozen topless bars. It looks alot like Oslo or another Scandinavian city, but without the high prices. In Oslo, a beer might cost you 10 dollars CDN. Here it is about 2 or 3 dollars.
Outside of one of the English Pubs and/or Casino there was a guy dressed up like an English bobby on the street. I thought about taking a picture of him, but thought that would be embarassing. So I took a picture of an English Taxi that was propped up on a stand around the corner.
When walking back towards the Bobby, there were two cars on the street that had collided. It was a very strange situation. Here you have the scene of an accident, right in front of a fake Bobby. I'm sure the fake Bobby felt a little embarrassed too. Shouldn't he, as he IS in uniform, go do something...
Anyway, this place is too much on the touristy side and I won't be here long. I'll decide tomorrow if I go to Riga in Latvia or head to Germany.
Anyway, Estonia *TALLIN I should say* is nothing like that. It is very modern, extremely touristy, very well paved and very well kept. You know, when I was in Russia I was begging for some sort of tourist information centre. I never found one there. Well I got my wish. But like most wishes, you have to be careful.
Tallin is way too touristy. I cannot separtate the staged from the authentic. There are 100s of stores like Esprit and Zara. Lots of English restaurants selling English breakfasts and tons of Casinos (there were tons of Casinos in Russia, BTW) and maybe a dozen topless bars. It looks alot like Oslo or another Scandinavian city, but without the high prices. In Oslo, a beer might cost you 10 dollars CDN. Here it is about 2 or 3 dollars.
Outside of one of the English Pubs and/or Casino there was a guy dressed up like an English bobby on the street. I thought about taking a picture of him, but thought that would be embarassing. So I took a picture of an English Taxi that was propped up on a stand around the corner.
When walking back towards the Bobby, there were two cars on the street that had collided. It was a very strange situation. Here you have the scene of an accident, right in front of a fake Bobby. I'm sure the fake Bobby felt a little embarrassed too. Shouldn't he, as he IS in uniform, go do something...
Anyway, this place is too much on the touristy side and I won't be here long. I'll decide tomorrow if I go to Riga in Latvia or head to Germany.
Russian notes
I've been a bit grumpy lately. Not having any access to cash has made me, well, grumpy. Also it was pouring with freezing cold rain at 6:30 AM when I arrived here in Tallin (Estonia). The rain reminded me of some of the worst kinds of downpours we have in Vancouver.
Later it was snowing here in Tallin so I've been thinking I need to get further south. Before talking anymore about Tallin, I should mention my last day in Russia - if only to try and maintain some sort of chronological coherence.
On the last day I signed up for a guided walking tour of St. Petersburg. It cost 400 Rubles- 20CDN for about 4 hours. I was the only person who signed up that day so I got shown around the city by a tourguide and an her understudy (also a her). It was pretty casual, I wanted to try taking the bus as I'd figured out the metro by then and wanted to become more 'functional'. Anyway we toured the big sights together and went to a couple cafes which was cool.
What was funny is that the russian guide (I don't remember her name) had been on an exchange to Melbourne, Australia for a year or so, so she had an australian accent and would use certain phrases which just made me laugh before she could finish her stories. For example, "this cathedral was built by the famous italian architect XXX, who, poor bugger, died only 4 days before it was complete."
She also worked in the St. Petersburg hostel and we were talking about what people do in the dorm rooms *that they should not* and she told me that everytime they had an italian guests they knew to watch for extra guests... I have not run into any Italian tourists actually. Lots from Melbourne though *or Melbin as some pronounce it*
Getting out of Russia, I decided to take a bus to Tallin and check out the Baltic states. I went to the bus station early *about 4 hours early* to make sure I did not miss my train. While waiting in the station I did notice a couple kissing. They were kissing before I arrived and after I left. The Lonely Planet guide suggests that pubic displays of affection are not that common in Russia. I saw them everywhere. In my weaker momements, you might understand if I thought about learning how to say *get a room* in Russian :)
On the bus trip back, my seat was right at the back of the bus. Three other Russian guys joined me back there (dressed in the usual black leather jackets, jeans and black shoes). The only reason I mention them is that when we got close the the Russian border a military guy with a big hat with a red band got on the bus, walked down the aisle and gave these guys a lets-go-head-gesture and they got off the bus with him right before the border. I have no idea what that was about. My imaginiation is also unable to explain the situation (rationally).
Later it was snowing here in Tallin so I've been thinking I need to get further south. Before talking anymore about Tallin, I should mention my last day in Russia - if only to try and maintain some sort of chronological coherence.
On the last day I signed up for a guided walking tour of St. Petersburg. It cost 400 Rubles- 20CDN for about 4 hours. I was the only person who signed up that day so I got shown around the city by a tourguide and an her understudy (also a her). It was pretty casual, I wanted to try taking the bus as I'd figured out the metro by then and wanted to become more 'functional'. Anyway we toured the big sights together and went to a couple cafes which was cool.
What was funny is that the russian guide (I don't remember her name) had been on an exchange to Melbourne, Australia for a year or so, so she had an australian accent and would use certain phrases which just made me laugh before she could finish her stories. For example, "this cathedral was built by the famous italian architect XXX, who, poor bugger, died only 4 days before it was complete."
She also worked in the St. Petersburg hostel and we were talking about what people do in the dorm rooms *that they should not* and she told me that everytime they had an italian guests they knew to watch for extra guests... I have not run into any Italian tourists actually. Lots from Melbourne though *or Melbin as some pronounce it*
Getting out of Russia, I decided to take a bus to Tallin and check out the Baltic states. I went to the bus station early *about 4 hours early* to make sure I did not miss my train. While waiting in the station I did notice a couple kissing. They were kissing before I arrived and after I left. The Lonely Planet guide suggests that pubic displays of affection are not that common in Russia. I saw them everywhere. In my weaker momements, you might understand if I thought about learning how to say *get a room* in Russian :)
On the bus trip back, my seat was right at the back of the bus. Three other Russian guys joined me back there (dressed in the usual black leather jackets, jeans and black shoes). The only reason I mention them is that when we got close the the Russian border a military guy with a big hat with a red band got on the bus, walked down the aisle and gave these guys a lets-go-head-gesture and they got off the bus with him right before the border. I have no idea what that was about. My imaginiation is also unable to explain the situation (rationally).
ATM update
I called CIBC and they cancelled my card. I have to 'contact my branch on Tuesday' to try and get another one. Apparently you don't get the same level of service with ATM cards that you get with Visa cards. In the meantime, I sold some stock that I have attached to another card so I should be able to get some cash soon.
Too bad... Estonia is a good place to go shopping. It is very touristy, very scandinavian but with very low prices. I just had a steak dinner and a beer for less than 10 dollars (charged to Visa).
Too bad... Estonia is a good place to go shopping. It is very touristy, very scandinavian but with very low prices. I just had a steak dinner and a beer for less than 10 dollars (charged to Visa).
Hello from Estonia - lost ATM card in Russia
I just went to go buy some Estoinan EEs and can't find my bank card. I think I lost in last night in St. Petersburg. Um...rats!
I converted my left over rubles and some Euros to EEs so I've got about 27CDN + 50EURO till I can sort this out...
I converted my left over rubles and some Euros to EEs so I've got about 27CDN + 50EURO till I can sort this out...
Friday, October 08, 2004
Day two in Russia
Ok. So I found out that my experience yesterday with no English at all was because I was outside of the core of St. Petersburg. I'm finding more and more people in the heart of the city that can speak some English. I'm also now used to living without speaking the language. I usually pick restaurants and stores where I can point to things and I can get by. By being quiet all day though, I notice that I talk ALOT and FAST when I meet someone who can speak English fluently. It's like I'm pressurizing all these words in my head...
So St. Petersburg is a big city. Kinda like New York. Like New York they have their oral fixations: smoking and cell phones... But here they also have drinking. It is very common to see young couples walking down the street in the afternoon and all evening carrying and drinking from bottles of beer. There are alot of beer bottles on the ground and on the window sills. I haven't seen any overly drunk people, but I have not gone out to any clubs yet.
Like New York, travelling here is to come in to real contact with something that is constructed in my mind by media. It kinda blows me away that I'm saying "Nyet" and "Da" and buying things in Rubels which heretofor were movie props. I've yet to use the word "Comrade" or ask for "Mr. Bond".
Fashion for men in St. Petersburg is pretty simple: buzz cut hair, Leather coat, blue jeans, black square point shoes and some sort of sweater or T-shirt is almost a
Female fashion is more interesting. Lots of short skirts and boots! Boots are usually thoese ones with the extra pointed tip and come in all sorts of types. On the first day I saw some really gaudy looking big-yet-matted-died-black-hair older ladies, but that was on the outskirts of town. In town women are dressed nicely. Cannot really categorize them as easily as the men. The women all walk arm in arm which is very different. I also notice that they give me alot of eye contact which is unusual (and good for the ego!). Last night I met a Swedish tour guide in the hostel who said that at night clubs it is more 'tiring for the men' - which means that women are apparently more aggressive here.
I've given up talking to pure (non-travel or restaurant industry related) locals here (male or female) though. The odds are that their English is so poor or non-existent that the conversations become embarrassing. I talk to tourists more now. (hee hee, all of a sudden I like tourists!). I emailed a russian friend back home and he is going to try and get me a guide - hopefully someone who can speak russian and english. I think that would be best because I'm really limited in my interaction with the city. If I can find one I'll stay another day, otherwise I'm heading back west tomorrow.
I tried to buy tickets for the ballet and for a hockey game here but the next hockey game in town that I could find mention of is in a week. Most people - locals or people in tourist offices know nothing about hockey or how to get tickets so I imply that they don't take hockey very seriously here. There are Pepsi advertisements for David Beckham (an overrated English soccer star) on many vendor umbrellas so maybe they are more interested in soccer. Or not interested in sport at all.
Regarding the ballet, the shows are sold out for the most famous theatre in town (called the Mariinsky). I tried to get there in time for tonight to see if I could get tickets from outside but got there too late. I did learn how to get through the Russian subway though. As I don't have grasp of cyrillic names, so I need to translate into my own language to remember them. For example, the Moscow train station terminal is named something else in cyrillic (I don't have a guidebook right now), but if you look at the words, to me it kinda looks like R. Boccachini. So I look for the Boccachini Railway to get to Moscow station. The word for Exit looks like 'Biloxi' (which reminds me of the movie 'Biloxy Blues' starring Ferris Bueler).
The cyrillic names for things is one of the reasons the Lonely Planet book I am using is pretty useless. It only has the roman spellings for items and even worse for road names on the map. I bought another map which shows both, so I can translate from what I want to see, to what I do see on the street.
Things are pretty cheap here. A big (half litre I think) beer costs about 17 rubels which is less than 1 dollar. A Big Mac dinner is $4, a chocolate bar is about 50 cents. The chocolate isn't very good though: mostly sugar. A token for the subway is about 25 cents.
As for the sights there are tons of palaces and interesting buildings. I went to the Hermitage and the Peter and Paul fortress. The hermitage has tons of artwork collected in bourgois times when Russia was a pretty hip European place to be. The Peter and Paul fortress was never used for defense, but was used as a jail for criminals such as Doesteovsky and the children of some royalty. Right now it holds the tombs of some roalty.
Speaking of sights, there are lots of blue things which is nice. It's pretty sad that I think the only blue picture I took in Sweden was some umbrellas and the side of an Ikea.
So St. Petersburg is a big city. Kinda like New York. Like New York they have their oral fixations: smoking and cell phones... But here they also have drinking. It is very common to see young couples walking down the street in the afternoon and all evening carrying and drinking from bottles of beer. There are alot of beer bottles on the ground and on the window sills. I haven't seen any overly drunk people, but I have not gone out to any clubs yet.
Like New York, travelling here is to come in to real contact with something that is constructed in my mind by media. It kinda blows me away that I'm saying "Nyet" and "Da" and buying things in Rubels which heretofor were movie props. I've yet to use the word "Comrade" or ask for "Mr. Bond".
Fashion for men in St. Petersburg is pretty simple: buzz cut hair, Leather coat, blue jeans, black square point shoes and some sort of sweater or T-shirt is almost a
Female fashion is more interesting. Lots of short skirts and boots! Boots are usually thoese ones with the extra pointed tip and come in all sorts of types. On the first day I saw some really gaudy looking big-yet-matted-died-black-hair older ladies, but that was on the outskirts of town. In town women are dressed nicely. Cannot really categorize them as easily as the men. The women all walk arm in arm which is very different. I also notice that they give me alot of eye contact which is unusual (and good for the ego!). Last night I met a Swedish tour guide in the hostel who said that at night clubs it is more 'tiring for the men' - which means that women are apparently more aggressive here.
I've given up talking to pure (non-travel or restaurant industry related) locals here (male or female) though. The odds are that their English is so poor or non-existent that the conversations become embarrassing. I talk to tourists more now. (hee hee, all of a sudden I like tourists!). I emailed a russian friend back home and he is going to try and get me a guide - hopefully someone who can speak russian and english. I think that would be best because I'm really limited in my interaction with the city. If I can find one I'll stay another day, otherwise I'm heading back west tomorrow.
I tried to buy tickets for the ballet and for a hockey game here but the next hockey game in town that I could find mention of is in a week. Most people - locals or people in tourist offices know nothing about hockey or how to get tickets so I imply that they don't take hockey very seriously here. There are Pepsi advertisements for David Beckham (an overrated English soccer star) on many vendor umbrellas so maybe they are more interested in soccer. Or not interested in sport at all.
Regarding the ballet, the shows are sold out for the most famous theatre in town (called the Mariinsky). I tried to get there in time for tonight to see if I could get tickets from outside but got there too late. I did learn how to get through the Russian subway though. As I don't have grasp of cyrillic names, so I need to translate into my own language to remember them. For example, the Moscow train station terminal is named something else in cyrillic (I don't have a guidebook right now), but if you look at the words, to me it kinda looks like R. Boccachini. So I look for the Boccachini Railway to get to Moscow station. The word for Exit looks like 'Biloxi' (which reminds me of the movie 'Biloxy Blues' starring Ferris Bueler).
The cyrillic names for things is one of the reasons the Lonely Planet book I am using is pretty useless. It only has the roman spellings for items and even worse for road names on the map. I bought another map which shows both, so I can translate from what I want to see, to what I do see on the street.
Things are pretty cheap here. A big (half litre I think) beer costs about 17 rubels which is less than 1 dollar. A Big Mac dinner is $4, a chocolate bar is about 50 cents. The chocolate isn't very good though: mostly sugar. A token for the subway is about 25 cents.
As for the sights there are tons of palaces and interesting buildings. I went to the Hermitage and the Peter and Paul fortress. The hermitage has tons of artwork collected in bourgois times when Russia was a pretty hip European place to be. The Peter and Paul fortress was never used for defense, but was used as a jail for criminals such as Doesteovsky and the children of some royalty. Right now it holds the tombs of some roalty.
Speaking of sights, there are lots of blue things which is nice. It's pretty sad that I think the only blue picture I took in Sweden was some umbrellas and the side of an Ikea.
Thursday, October 07, 2004
Hello from Russia!
Well I'm in shock.
I did not expect a huge cultural difference between the geographically close cities of Helsinki and St. Petersburg. For me, the cultural shifts between Norway, Sweden and Finland have been small. I was wrong about Russia! When I got off the train I could find no one (including the information desks) that could speak any English at all.
Pretty much everyone under the age of 40 speaks some pretty good English in Finland.
After getting off the train I literally did 3 circuits of the train station trying to absorbe -something-. I then wandered around outside, to try and get my bearings and see if it would become obvious where the hostel might be from where I was standing.
Eventually I went back in to the train station to try and figure out a subway to the Moscow station (it is still in St. Petersburg). Again the clerks could not speak any English. I was lucky though and found a Finn who could speak some Russian and German (German being their second language) who was going my way. He helped me get to the right part of the city.
The Finnish guy was impressed that I would go to Russia with absolutely no Russian or Cyrillic knowledge. He was intimidated by only being able to speak some Russian.
After leaving the Finn, I was able through pointing at my book and doing three sets of charades for three different audiences, get myself to the hostel.
After about 4 hours here, St. Petersburg gives me the impression of a very big city, like New York. But at the same time a 3rd world city: with stray dogs and warnings not to drink the water.
Once I settle down a bit I'll decide if I'm staying here for much longer. I may just try and find a ticket for a train to Estonia from here.
I did not expect a huge cultural difference between the geographically close cities of Helsinki and St. Petersburg. For me, the cultural shifts between Norway, Sweden and Finland have been small. I was wrong about Russia! When I got off the train I could find no one (including the information desks) that could speak any English at all.
Pretty much everyone under the age of 40 speaks some pretty good English in Finland.
After getting off the train I literally did 3 circuits of the train station trying to absorbe -something-. I then wandered around outside, to try and get my bearings and see if it would become obvious where the hostel might be from where I was standing.
Eventually I went back in to the train station to try and figure out a subway to the Moscow station (it is still in St. Petersburg). Again the clerks could not speak any English. I was lucky though and found a Finn who could speak some Russian and German (German being their second language) who was going my way. He helped me get to the right part of the city.
The Finnish guy was impressed that I would go to Russia with absolutely no Russian or Cyrillic knowledge. He was intimidated by only being able to speak some Russian.
After leaving the Finn, I was able through pointing at my book and doing three sets of charades for three different audiences, get myself to the hostel.
After about 4 hours here, St. Petersburg gives me the impression of a very big city, like New York. But at the same time a 3rd world city: with stray dogs and warnings not to drink the water.
Once I settle down a bit I'll decide if I'm staying here for much longer. I may just try and find a ticket for a train to Estonia from here.
Wednesday, October 06, 2004
Bit the bullet - got a Russian Visa
I decided to spring for the Visa! I'm now taking the train tommorrow morning at 7:42 AM to St. Petersburg. I'm at the library now, trying to cram as much about Catherine the Great, Alexander the Great, Dostoyovsky etc.
Hockey night in Helsinki
After my enjoyable visit to a Swedish hockey game, I thought I'd try the same here in Helsinki. So last night I went and saw a Jokerit vs Saipa game in the largest stadium in Finland: Hartwell Arena.
The game was not as exciting as the one in Sweden. There was only about 50% attendence in the stands.
Here is some trivia:
* Referrees have EA Sports patches on their uniforms
* A finnish guy told me that lots of Finnish players who are not playing in the NHL are playing in the Swedish league. He wasn't sure why, but thought that it might be related to taxes.
* No english was spoken at all during the game. Most of the music was in english though.
* They had about 10 cheerleaders who formed a path for the players to skate by at the beginning. The cheerleaders then went up into the stands and did their cheers between any breaks in the play.
* One player on each team was wearing a reflective gold helmet. Why you ask? I thought it might be the captain, but noticed that other players had the C on their jersey. I asked someone and he said it was the best player. I asked if that meant he scored the most goals (as opposed to say points or plus/minus or something) and he agreed. I'm pretty sure he didn't understand my question and would have agreed to anything.
* At the end of the game, they hand out player of the game awards and each player shakes the hand of each opposing player.
The game was not as exciting as the one in Sweden. There was only about 50% attendence in the stands.
Here is some trivia:
* Referrees have EA Sports patches on their uniforms
* A finnish guy told me that lots of Finnish players who are not playing in the NHL are playing in the Swedish league. He wasn't sure why, but thought that it might be related to taxes.
* No english was spoken at all during the game. Most of the music was in english though.
* They had about 10 cheerleaders who formed a path for the players to skate by at the beginning. The cheerleaders then went up into the stands and did their cheers between any breaks in the play.
* One player on each team was wearing a reflective gold helmet. Why you ask? I thought it might be the captain, but noticed that other players had the C on their jersey. I asked someone and he said it was the best player. I asked if that meant he scored the most goals (as opposed to say points or plus/minus or something) and he agreed. I'm pretty sure he didn't understand my question and would have agreed to anything.
* At the end of the game, they hand out player of the game awards and each player shakes the hand of each opposing player.
Tuesday, October 05, 2004
Getting naked (with other men)
Finnish saunas are a national pastime. Apparently lots of Finns have their own saunas and are supposedly the ones who came up with the idea to jump in the snow and back into the sauna.
So there are a few Saunas here in Helsinki. Two of them were reccomended to me by one of the Hostel employees. One called 'Sauna Bar' and another one called Yrjonkadun Uimahalli. Both of these places apparently require that you do the Sauna's naked and there is someone there to check that you are doing it right.
I wandered though the streets trying to find Sauna Bar last night and I was able to find it. The entrance was at the back of a building, down some sketchy looking stairs with lots of grungy looking paper posters on the wall. In the bar there was about 3 people in one smoky corner and about 2 in another corner. In between was about 12 empty tables. Very much a dive bar. Not a place I would want to take my clothes off in. I 'high tailed' it out of there.
Today I went to the other one. I had seen a picture of it before hand and it looked far nicer. It has huge ceilings which are reminicent of greek baths or buildings. On certain days only the women are allowed to go. On other days only men are allowed to go. Today was Man's day... And it sure was.
After paying my fee and walking upstairs a female clerk yelled at me. Then in english she told me to put on these shoe covers before entering the change area. I told her I was new and she offered to show me around a little.
From the second floor, I could look down to the pool in on the first floor. Yes there were naked bums in the pool. Also I noticed the lifeguard was female. The lifeguard looked bored.
She showed me a to a little personal change room, where I could undress and put on a dressing gown and showed me where the sauna was and where I could get coffee.
The sauna was a wood fired one, which is apparenlty the best kind to find and is becoming more scarce. There was another guy in there. I noticed by his posture that he was not an exhibitionist. I was curious about what the philosophy would be. But basically, I think it is appropriate to keep your legs together in the sauna. I also noticed that often people would sit with one leg folded towards their chest while sitting down, which provides a bit of a shield. I tried this once, but I thought I was a bit more exposed in this pose so stopped fooling around and stared at the wall.
Actually I talked a bit to the guy in the room. He was Russian and figured that in Canada, being nordic we should have lots of Saunas then.
He told me about the buckets of cold water, where you go out of the sauna and dump a cold bucket of water on your head to cool off. I actually did try this and found it did feel really good. I also noticed - about a minute later it also helped shrink my uh pores.
After trying that I went to the Turkish sauna, which is the kind of sauna you see on TV (or I do) where it is all very steamy and hard to see the person next to you. One rather muscular guy sat next to me and I was able to tell that he was doing some strange kinds of stretches involving pointing his toes, however.
Finally after that I went for a swim in the big pool on the first floor. I carefully selected the side away from the lifeguard, in case she started some sort of small talk - which might be a bit uncomfortable.
After jumping in it felt nice to be skinny dipping. I swam around breast stroke way and then as I was about to flip over to do the back stroke - I decided against it as no one else was doing this. Is it obvious why???
Actually later I did see someone doing the backstroke, so if I go again, I might try that.
Anyway, I thought it was great and I felt really good and relaxed afterwards. So far this was the highlight of my time in Finland.
P.S. A minor benefit of this system is you don't have to deal with that bothersome wet swimsuit afterwards.
P.P.S. I now know what a Finn looks like - really.
So there are a few Saunas here in Helsinki. Two of them were reccomended to me by one of the Hostel employees. One called 'Sauna Bar' and another one called Yrjonkadun Uimahalli. Both of these places apparently require that you do the Sauna's naked and there is someone there to check that you are doing it right.
I wandered though the streets trying to find Sauna Bar last night and I was able to find it. The entrance was at the back of a building, down some sketchy looking stairs with lots of grungy looking paper posters on the wall. In the bar there was about 3 people in one smoky corner and about 2 in another corner. In between was about 12 empty tables. Very much a dive bar. Not a place I would want to take my clothes off in. I 'high tailed' it out of there.
Today I went to the other one. I had seen a picture of it before hand and it looked far nicer. It has huge ceilings which are reminicent of greek baths or buildings. On certain days only the women are allowed to go. On other days only men are allowed to go. Today was Man's day... And it sure was.
After paying my fee and walking upstairs a female clerk yelled at me. Then in english she told me to put on these shoe covers before entering the change area. I told her I was new and she offered to show me around a little.
From the second floor, I could look down to the pool in on the first floor. Yes there were naked bums in the pool. Also I noticed the lifeguard was female. The lifeguard looked bored.
She showed me a to a little personal change room, where I could undress and put on a dressing gown and showed me where the sauna was and where I could get coffee.
The sauna was a wood fired one, which is apparenlty the best kind to find and is becoming more scarce. There was another guy in there. I noticed by his posture that he was not an exhibitionist. I was curious about what the philosophy would be. But basically, I think it is appropriate to keep your legs together in the sauna. I also noticed that often people would sit with one leg folded towards their chest while sitting down, which provides a bit of a shield. I tried this once, but I thought I was a bit more exposed in this pose so stopped fooling around and stared at the wall.
Actually I talked a bit to the guy in the room. He was Russian and figured that in Canada, being nordic we should have lots of Saunas then.
He told me about the buckets of cold water, where you go out of the sauna and dump a cold bucket of water on your head to cool off. I actually did try this and found it did feel really good. I also noticed - about a minute later it also helped shrink my uh pores.
After trying that I went to the Turkish sauna, which is the kind of sauna you see on TV (or I do) where it is all very steamy and hard to see the person next to you. One rather muscular guy sat next to me and I was able to tell that he was doing some strange kinds of stretches involving pointing his toes, however.
Finally after that I went for a swim in the big pool on the first floor. I carefully selected the side away from the lifeguard, in case she started some sort of small talk - which might be a bit uncomfortable.
After jumping in it felt nice to be skinny dipping. I swam around breast stroke way and then as I was about to flip over to do the back stroke - I decided against it as no one else was doing this. Is it obvious why???
Actually later I did see someone doing the backstroke, so if I go again, I might try that.
Anyway, I thought it was great and I felt really good and relaxed afterwards. So far this was the highlight of my time in Finland.
P.S. A minor benefit of this system is you don't have to deal with that bothersome wet swimsuit afterwards.
P.P.S. I now know what a Finn looks like - really.
Russian Schemes
I'm in Helsinki which is very close to the Russian border... Therefore I had what I thought would be a very cool scheme: rent a motorcycle and ride to St. Petersburg or Moscow even.
I spent awhile researching this and it does not look feasible yet. The rental rates are insanely high: 500Euros for a weekend + gear rental. Also the Russian Visas are also a bit of a scam: 220Euros for a visa (one day processing) or 100Euros for a 6 work-day-processing visa.
I considered doing the 6 work-day option, but the application requires that I surrender my passport which means I cannot leave Finland. So I'd be trapped here. Also the motorcycle rental places have not returned my emails asking about if they would even let me cross the border with their bikes (the travel bureau thought no)
Anyway, two grand (canadian) to ride a motorcycle for a few hundred kms does not make sense. Because I'm so close I'll probably bite the 220Euro bullet for the Visa and take the train there (about 50 Euros). Or steal a motorcycle. After that, I'll probably go to Tallin (in Estonia) before starting back west.
I spent awhile researching this and it does not look feasible yet. The rental rates are insanely high: 500Euros for a weekend + gear rental. Also the Russian Visas are also a bit of a scam: 220Euros for a visa (one day processing) or 100Euros for a 6 work-day-processing visa.
I considered doing the 6 work-day option, but the application requires that I surrender my passport which means I cannot leave Finland. So I'd be trapped here. Also the motorcycle rental places have not returned my emails asking about if they would even let me cross the border with their bikes (the travel bureau thought no)
Anyway, two grand (canadian) to ride a motorcycle for a few hundred kms does not make sense. Because I'm so close I'll probably bite the 220Euro bullet for the Visa and take the train there (about 50 Euros). Or steal a motorcycle. After that, I'll probably go to Tallin (in Estonia) before starting back west.
Strange situation / fight last night
Last night I was looking for something to eat, so I was walking through a mall and into a food court. As I passed a Turkish guy and a tall blonde I heard a bit of shouting and turned around in time to see a hamburger hit the floor.
The woman was about 3 metres away and the guy had apparently lost his temper and threw his hamburger at her. This could be a funny story, but unfortunately it wasn't. There was this air of violence and anger which was very threatening and I felt that I should do something.
The girl, then returned to the table and continued to talk to him. I walked away and kept my eyes on them. Later she was leaving and he started yelling at her.
... at this point I should point out I have no clue what they were saying as I don't speak any Finnish ...
She then started to sprint across the floor of the mall. He jumped up out of his chair and started sprinting after her. Like I implied before this was not a 'ha ha' chase through the mall, but rather a someone is going to get violent kind of chase.
She ducked into a pharmacy, which fooled him for a bit. I asked the clerk to call the police, but she and on reflection I did not even know if that was the right thing to do. Basically I and imagine the rest of the pharmacy was waiting for some sort of signal from the girl to see if she needed help. After a few minutes I slowly wandered through the mall and upstairs and waited a bit more to see if there would be something to do.
Anyway, this was a bit upsetting and again (like the seizure in New York) where you just try and be available for help, but things are really outside of your control. It would have been easier if this conflict would have been in English.
The woman was about 3 metres away and the guy had apparently lost his temper and threw his hamburger at her. This could be a funny story, but unfortunately it wasn't. There was this air of violence and anger which was very threatening and I felt that I should do something.
The girl, then returned to the table and continued to talk to him. I walked away and kept my eyes on them. Later she was leaving and he started yelling at her.
... at this point I should point out I have no clue what they were saying as I don't speak any Finnish ...
She then started to sprint across the floor of the mall. He jumped up out of his chair and started sprinting after her. Like I implied before this was not a 'ha ha' chase through the mall, but rather a someone is going to get violent kind of chase.
She ducked into a pharmacy, which fooled him for a bit. I asked the clerk to call the police, but she and on reflection I did not even know if that was the right thing to do. Basically I and imagine the rest of the pharmacy was waiting for some sort of signal from the girl to see if she needed help. After a few minutes I slowly wandered through the mall and upstairs and waited a bit more to see if there would be something to do.
Anyway, this was a bit upsetting and again (like the seizure in New York) where you just try and be available for help, but things are really outside of your control. It would have been easier if this conflict would have been in English.
Monday, October 04, 2004
Hello from Helsinki!
I took the ferry into Helsinki today. Or last night. It left Stockholm at 5pm and arrived here in Helsinki at 9:30 AM Finland time. I haven't had much time to check out Finland yet.
The ferry trip over was a big surprise. I expected it to be some sort of dumpy, damp, cold diesel ship with maybe about 50 people on it, being tossed around in the ocean.
Boy was I wrong. It was a big fancy cruise ship, about 15 stories tall, with stores, restaurants, discos, bars etc, etc.
My shared room did not cost me anything because of my Eurail pass and had it's own bathroom!
My own bathroom is a very big luxury! I spent the first two hours taking a shower, doing some laundry in the sink and trying to dry it using a hairdryer.
The guy on the bunk underneath me said that lots of Swedish and Findlanders take these as mini booze cruises where they can get duty+free booze. I wasn't in to that and enjoyed my comfy bed.
Anyway, the only real news I have from Helsinki is that I found a place with free internet (30 min - not sure if there is a limit on times per day yet). So you might have noticed a few more posts today.
The ferry trip over was a big surprise. I expected it to be some sort of dumpy, damp, cold diesel ship with maybe about 50 people on it, being tossed around in the ocean.
Boy was I wrong. It was a big fancy cruise ship, about 15 stories tall, with stores, restaurants, discos, bars etc, etc.
My shared room did not cost me anything because of my Eurail pass and had it's own bathroom!
My own bathroom is a very big luxury! I spent the first two hours taking a shower, doing some laundry in the sink and trying to dry it using a hairdryer.
The guy on the bunk underneath me said that lots of Swedish and Findlanders take these as mini booze cruises where they can get duty+free booze. I wasn't in to that and enjoyed my comfy bed.
Anyway, the only real news I have from Helsinki is that I found a place with free internet (30 min - not sure if there is a limit on times per day yet). So you might have noticed a few more posts today.
Stockholm buildings
Stockholm is a big city - much bigger than I expected. As mentioned before the train station is very busy and very rushed: Coming into the train station, Stockholm welcomes you with a nice punch in the face of human traffic.
The city is very beautiful and is arranged across about 14 islands connected by 53 bridges. The building all look like our parliment buildings/castles/museams. You know: europeanish. Sidewalks are all cobblestone.
There is also alot of park land, canals, low buildings, and sea walls which contribute to a nice city.
The city is very beautiful and is arranged across about 14 islands connected by 53 bridges. The building all look like our parliment buildings/castles/museams. You know: europeanish. Sidewalks are all cobblestone.
There is also alot of park land, canals, low buildings, and sea walls which contribute to a nice city.
Learning about Culture
Coming to Europe I wanted to learn more about my culture and - being Eurocentric - about my historic cultural framework.
What I've found is that every town has got a bunch of Museums. Even New York has a museum. In fact the New York museum is better than most museums I've seen. So it kinda makes you wonder why you (or I) travel so far away to find a museum in the home country.
Anyway, I visit museums because they give some context and history to a place and that is handy to have. Organized tours are also a way to get this but are so much more crass with the tourist trap/bathroom stops that drive me a bit crazy.
What I find most interesting is just to walk around and look at people. And visiting magazine stores. In someways visiting a magazine/drug store is equivalent, culture wise, to visiting a museum. You get a sense of what language they speak/read, what they eat, what kind of candy they have, what things cost and some other subtleties of the current culture.
For example, in Sweden I bought something and it came to 17Kr. I had 20Kr, but didn't want to get 3Kr back in change so I tried to hand the guy 22Kr (a 20kr bill and 2 kr coins). He took the 20Kr and said something. I looked at him stupidly and he pointed to a box. Well after pointing at the box a couple more times, I figured that he wanted me to put the change in the box. I did and the box gave me a 5kr coin. I find this kind of thin interesting. Our change boxes in Safeways etc. only give coins - this machine took and gave them.
Also there is alot of licorice eaten in Scandinavia. Hot dogs are very popular too.
What I've found is that every town has got a bunch of Museums. Even New York has a museum. In fact the New York museum is better than most museums I've seen. So it kinda makes you wonder why you (or I) travel so far away to find a museum in the home country.
Anyway, I visit museums because they give some context and history to a place and that is handy to have. Organized tours are also a way to get this but are so much more crass with the tourist trap/bathroom stops that drive me a bit crazy.
What I find most interesting is just to walk around and look at people. And visiting magazine stores. In someways visiting a magazine/drug store is equivalent, culture wise, to visiting a museum. You get a sense of what language they speak/read, what they eat, what kind of candy they have, what things cost and some other subtleties of the current culture.
For example, in Sweden I bought something and it came to 17Kr. I had 20Kr, but didn't want to get 3Kr back in change so I tried to hand the guy 22Kr (a 20kr bill and 2 kr coins). He took the 20Kr and said something. I looked at him stupidly and he pointed to a box. Well after pointing at the box a couple more times, I figured that he wanted me to put the change in the box. I did and the box gave me a 5kr coin. I find this kind of thin interesting. Our change boxes in Safeways etc. only give coins - this machine took and gave them.
Also there is alot of licorice eaten in Scandinavia. Hot dogs are very popular too.
Fashion Notes
I check out how people dress when I travel to see if I can get a sense of what is fasionable here.
I haven't figured anything out.
In New York it seems like there is more of an Anything goes kinda fashion sense. This constrasts with a small town like Karlstad where a 'Von Dutch' baseball cap is popular and represents something to the wearer and their peers. I wonder if this is because a 'Von Dutch' cap in New York is sold for about 5 bucks (all over the place in china town) and therefore does not represent the same thing here - sold for a higher price - therefore you might be able to ascribe a different meaning to it.
In Sweden, everyone wears scarves and women whear these triangular wool ponchos.
As for me, I'm lucky if I get to wear clean clothes. Actually I do wear clean clothes almost everyday, but I don't get the same selection. Yesterday I wore black socks in running shoes!
I haven't figured anything out.
In New York it seems like there is more of an Anything goes kinda fashion sense. This constrasts with a small town like Karlstad where a 'Von Dutch' baseball cap is popular and represents something to the wearer and their peers. I wonder if this is because a 'Von Dutch' cap in New York is sold for about 5 bucks (all over the place in china town) and therefore does not represent the same thing here - sold for a higher price - therefore you might be able to ascribe a different meaning to it.
In Sweden, everyone wears scarves and women whear these triangular wool ponchos.
As for me, I'm lucky if I get to wear clean clothes. Actually I do wear clean clothes almost everyday, but I don't get the same selection. Yesterday I wore black socks in running shoes!
IKEA in Sweden
I went to the IKEA in Sweden. It's like the one back home, but slightly bigger and the prices looked cheaper (almost half). I could be wrong about the prices though.
Everyone pronounces it 'eekea' here.
I had swedish meatballs in their cafeteria. There were a bunch of other tourists from France there who where having difficulty speaking to the cafeteria people.
This made me realize that with English as my native language, I have an advantage over many Europeans here. This is because the international language is English. If you go to a hostel: Everyone speaks English to each other(unless the people speaking all know their own home tongue). Sometimes I find myself translating peoples English: or basically just repeating it with my Canadian accent which is clearer than a rough European one.
It's a bit ironic I think because France, Germany and Spain are so much closer to Scandinavia, but my English is better understood and accepted than their languages.
Everyone pronounces it 'eekea' here.
I had swedish meatballs in their cafeteria. There were a bunch of other tourists from France there who where having difficulty speaking to the cafeteria people.
This made me realize that with English as my native language, I have an advantage over many Europeans here. This is because the international language is English. If you go to a hostel: Everyone speaks English to each other(unless the people speaking all know their own home tongue). Sometimes I find myself translating peoples English: or basically just repeating it with my Canadian accent which is clearer than a rough European one.
It's a bit ironic I think because France, Germany and Spain are so much closer to Scandinavia, but my English is better understood and accepted than their languages.
Hockey night in Sweden
I just went and saw a hockey game between MODO and Farjestad. I picked this game because I knew that the Sedin twins (and Peter Forsberg and Tommy Salo) are playing for MODO.
Farjestad is pretty far away from Stockholm. In fact I practically took the train back across Sweden to close to the Norweigian border to get there. Farjestad is a suburb of Karlsberg, which is a pretty small town (supposedly 80K people compared to Stockholm's supposed 750K people). I think I saw gypsies. Or atleast I saw some really drunk people at a bus stop.
Anyway it was a pain and a rush to get to the game on time. I managed to walk to the stadium and had this 'Im in backwater Sweden bias going' So when I saw a bunch of kids playing hackey-football outside the stadium, I thought that's pretty casual.
As I walked by, it registered to me that they were all wearing MODO track suits and yes, there was Forsberg and one of the Sedins standing next to me (I can't tell them apart - I took a picture so you could tell me). So anyway, everyone was pretty much just walking by these guys ignoring them (the away team) and I was just a little surprised. I thought about talking to the Sedin, but I'd have to interrupt and figured I wouldn't bother.
Here are some notes on the game
* Ticket cost 40 dollars. I was lucky to get it as it was a sold out game.
* Hot dog costs 2 dollars
* Stadium is warm inside, I was wearing a t-shirt
* Fans ride their bikes to the game. There were about 1000 bikes parked outside the stadium. Lots of young fans and families.
* Music was the same to a Canucks game: 'Panama', 'Rock the night', 'Boys are back in town', 'Pump up the jam'.
* Smell of the stadium was burning metal - like when you turn on electric heat elements. The stadium was only 3 years old so maybe it's still being broken in.
* There was a huge fan section behind home goal. This fan section had everyone all dressed in Farjestad colours, drums and two guys leading the chants. It was incredible - it is what I expected to see at a Football game, not a hockey game. The two guys leading the chants would stand up and say something like 'kung liver' and everyone in the stands would thrust their hands forward (ala Hail Hitler) and say Ra (thurst hand) Ra (thrust hand) Ra (thrust hand). They had about 5 different chants I think. After awhile I did notice that there was a very small section further away from the game but near this fan section for the MODO fans.
* No english was spoken during the announcements. Norway is very bilingual compared to Sweden.
* I lied a bit about the english. These were the phrases that were used in English (bracketed in Swedish dialogue):
* 'Welcome to the big show!'
* 'Let's get ready to rumble!'
* 'Offside' (the PA announces announce this)
* 'Icing'
* There was no shot clock. Farjestad was outshooting MODO by about 2 to 1, but I could not see the stats anywhere.
* The Sedin twins did not score. In fact they took 3 penalties and give me the impression that they are a bit rougher than the swedish players.
* No beer is allowed in the stands! Between periods, people would rush into these small beer gardens and presumably down a beer in the 15 minutes before the next period started.
This was one of the most exciting games I've ever been to and was the highlight of my trip to Sweden. I think it is because of the rabid home cheering stands which put out sooo much energy during the game. I will try and go to another Hockey game on my travels.
Farjestad is pretty far away from Stockholm. In fact I practically took the train back across Sweden to close to the Norweigian border to get there. Farjestad is a suburb of Karlsberg, which is a pretty small town (supposedly 80K people compared to Stockholm's supposed 750K people). I think I saw gypsies. Or atleast I saw some really drunk people at a bus stop.
Anyway it was a pain and a rush to get to the game on time. I managed to walk to the stadium and had this 'Im in backwater Sweden bias going' So when I saw a bunch of kids playing hackey-football outside the stadium, I thought that's pretty casual.
As I walked by, it registered to me that they were all wearing MODO track suits and yes, there was Forsberg and one of the Sedins standing next to me (I can't tell them apart - I took a picture so you could tell me). So anyway, everyone was pretty much just walking by these guys ignoring them (the away team) and I was just a little surprised. I thought about talking to the Sedin, but I'd have to interrupt and figured I wouldn't bother.
Here are some notes on the game
* Ticket cost 40 dollars. I was lucky to get it as it was a sold out game.
* Hot dog costs 2 dollars
* Stadium is warm inside, I was wearing a t-shirt
* Fans ride their bikes to the game. There were about 1000 bikes parked outside the stadium. Lots of young fans and families.
* Music was the same to a Canucks game: 'Panama', 'Rock the night', 'Boys are back in town', 'Pump up the jam'.
* Smell of the stadium was burning metal - like when you turn on electric heat elements. The stadium was only 3 years old so maybe it's still being broken in.
* There was a huge fan section behind home goal. This fan section had everyone all dressed in Farjestad colours, drums and two guys leading the chants. It was incredible - it is what I expected to see at a Football game, not a hockey game. The two guys leading the chants would stand up and say something like 'kung liver' and everyone in the stands would thrust their hands forward (ala Hail Hitler) and say Ra (thurst hand) Ra (thrust hand) Ra (thrust hand). They had about 5 different chants I think. After awhile I did notice that there was a very small section further away from the game but near this fan section for the MODO fans.
* No english was spoken during the announcements. Norway is very bilingual compared to Sweden.
* I lied a bit about the english. These were the phrases that were used in English (bracketed in Swedish dialogue):
* 'Welcome to the big show!'
* 'Let's get ready to rumble!'
* 'Offside' (the PA announces announce this)
* 'Icing'
* There was no shot clock. Farjestad was outshooting MODO by about 2 to 1, but I could not see the stats anywhere.
* The Sedin twins did not score. In fact they took 3 penalties and give me the impression that they are a bit rougher than the swedish players.
* No beer is allowed in the stands! Between periods, people would rush into these small beer gardens and presumably down a beer in the 15 minutes before the next period started.
This was one of the most exciting games I've ever been to and was the highlight of my trip to Sweden. I think it is because of the rabid home cheering stands which put out sooo much energy during the game. I will try and go to another Hockey game on my travels.
Friday, October 01, 2004
In Stockholm now
After that wild trip to Bergen and back to Oslo... I and Maki took the train to Stockholm.
Stockholm really shocked me. We arrived in the central station and it was busier than anything I saw in New York. Ok maybe it was AS busy, I just did not expect to be trapped in it. Walking across a hallway was difficult. I asked someone a question and was litterally about 30cm from his face and he completely ignored me and walked quickly away like he was blind. Blind and able to walk really quickly through foot traffic...
Maki and I spent yesterday going to a bunch of museams because we bought a 'Stockholm card'. Saw a national museam (saw my first real Monet there), a dance museam and a music museam (yay Abba!)
Stockholm prices are more sane than Norway or Iceland. We are now able to get coffee for about 2.00 and dinner entrees are about 20. Speaking of which we went to a swedish restaurant and I had reindeer and herring in three sauces.
Today I said goodbye and booked a ticket to see the MODO hockey team play in Karlstad tommorrow. MODO is where the Sudin Twins and Forsberg are playing now. Markus Nasuld should be playing for them in December or January.
Stockholm really shocked me. We arrived in the central station and it was busier than anything I saw in New York. Ok maybe it was AS busy, I just did not expect to be trapped in it. Walking across a hallway was difficult. I asked someone a question and was litterally about 30cm from his face and he completely ignored me and walked quickly away like he was blind. Blind and able to walk really quickly through foot traffic...
Maki and I spent yesterday going to a bunch of museams because we bought a 'Stockholm card'. Saw a national museam (saw my first real Monet there), a dance museam and a music museam (yay Abba!)
Stockholm prices are more sane than Norway or Iceland. We are now able to get coffee for about 2.00 and dinner entrees are about 20. Speaking of which we went to a swedish restaurant and I had reindeer and herring in three sauces.
Today I said goodbye and booked a ticket to see the MODO hockey team play in Karlstad tommorrow. MODO is where the Sudin Twins and Forsberg are playing now. Markus Nasuld should be playing for them in December or January.
Norway in a Nutshell
Rick Steeves says that anyone that doesn't see the fjords of Norway should have his passport revoked.
With that and other people's recommendation, I signed up for a day trip through the fjords from Oslo to Bergen (from the far east side of Norway to the West Coast and back).
Norway is very beautiful, the fjords are very beautiful. But very reminicent of B.C. so I cannot help but take it for granted. For me I thought it looked like Vancouver Island, another Canadian guy Lorne from Calgary behind me thought it looked like the interior. We later met a Canadian girl Ann-Claude (from Toronto) who said it looked like (actually I don't remember what she said). The three of us later met a Japanese girl (Maki from Osaka) who said it looked like some places in Japan.
From all of that, it is very beatiful in a way that might remind you of a beatiful place you might already know.
That night I, Ann-Claude and Maki went for Indian food and took the night train back to Oslo. The night train was a pretty wild experience. You know that dream state you are not quite asleep, but your mind gets all of these crazy ideas and makes these funny stories? Maybe it is just me... But anyway the train put me in that state for about 3 hours straight... Pretty trippy. I was able to sleep for some solid hours and that was good considering. I wish there was a shower though - I was stinky boy for the rest of the day after arriving in Oslo at around 6AM.
With that and other people's recommendation, I signed up for a day trip through the fjords from Oslo to Bergen (from the far east side of Norway to the West Coast and back).
Norway is very beautiful, the fjords are very beautiful. But very reminicent of B.C. so I cannot help but take it for granted. For me I thought it looked like Vancouver Island, another Canadian guy Lorne from Calgary behind me thought it looked like the interior. We later met a Canadian girl Ann-Claude (from Toronto) who said it looked like (actually I don't remember what she said). The three of us later met a Japanese girl (Maki from Osaka) who said it looked like some places in Japan.
From all of that, it is very beatiful in a way that might remind you of a beatiful place you might already know.
That night I, Ann-Claude and Maki went for Indian food and took the night train back to Oslo. The night train was a pretty wild experience. You know that dream state you are not quite asleep, but your mind gets all of these crazy ideas and makes these funny stories? Maybe it is just me... But anyway the train put me in that state for about 3 hours straight... Pretty trippy. I was able to sleep for some solid hours and that was good considering. I wish there was a shower though - I was stinky boy for the rest of the day after arriving in Oslo at around 6AM.
Seemier Oslo?
For my second night I wanted to find a hostel to save money. The night before I stayed at a 'Pension' which is like a hotel but with shared bath. The pension cost about 80CDN, and a hostel is usually around 50CDN.
The place I found was in East Oslo. Here is the scummier side of Oslo. What I didnot realize the first night, was that I was staying in a place kitty-corner to the King's residence and the high-street: a european version of Robson and 4th ave.
East Oslo was a bit scummier. I passed a few beggars on the way to the Hostel. When I got to the hostel there was three people ahead of me. While in line a man stood behind me. He smelled like he had been pickled. It was really bad and is probably hard to imagine, but it was difficult to actually stand nearby. It was at that point that I wondered how the Hostels allocated shared rooms... i.e. If there are two beds available and two random people show up at the same time do they get sent to the same room or do they get distributed throughout the hostel...
The East side is not bad. No worse than what we have in Vancouver.
The place I found was in East Oslo. Here is the scummier side of Oslo. What I didnot realize the first night, was that I was staying in a place kitty-corner to the King's residence and the high-street: a european version of Robson and 4th ave.
East Oslo was a bit scummier. I passed a few beggars on the way to the Hostel. When I got to the hostel there was three people ahead of me. While in line a man stood behind me. He smelled like he had been pickled. It was really bad and is probably hard to imagine, but it was difficult to actually stand nearby. It was at that point that I wondered how the Hostels allocated shared rooms... i.e. If there are two beds available and two random people show up at the same time do they get sent to the same room or do they get distributed throughout the hostel...
The East side is not bad. No worse than what we have in Vancouver.
Museums of Oslo
I took a ferry across to the island of Bygdoy which has alot of nautical museams. On the way I met a woman and her two children who were going over for a visit as well. She was originally from Poland and thought that Oslo was a good place to raise a family.
The museums were pretty cool. I went to a Viking ship museum, a folk museam where they have moved original homes from around the country to this single place and the Con-Tiki museum.
The Con-Tiki museum was very cool. I had not heard abouth Thor Heyerdahl (1914-2002) but this guy built very old fashioned boats out of straw or balsa and then sailed them across oceans. He sailed the balsa craft from Peru to Polynesia, the Tigris around the Indian Ocean, The RA1 sank while he was trying to get from Morroco to America so he built and sailed the RA2 the next year to finish the trip.
It was cool because the ships were so small and old fashioned and the idea sounded pretty crazy. If I get time I'll check out his biography.
The museums were pretty cool. I went to a Viking ship museum, a folk museam where they have moved original homes from around the country to this single place and the Con-Tiki museum.
The Con-Tiki museum was very cool. I had not heard abouth Thor Heyerdahl (1914-2002) but this guy built very old fashioned boats out of straw or balsa and then sailed them across oceans. He sailed the balsa craft from Peru to Polynesia, the Tigris around the Indian Ocean, The RA1 sank while he was trying to get from Morroco to America so he built and sailed the RA2 the next year to finish the trip.
It was cool because the ships were so small and old fashioned and the idea sounded pretty crazy. If I get time I'll check out his biography.
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