Friday, November 05, 2004

Trip to Darmstadt

On the way to Darmstadt, I sat next to an Architect who worked in Berlin and in Frankfurt (and had a girlfriend in Dresden). We talked about a few things.

One was the difference between East and West Germans. His opinion was that right now East Germany is being used to soften the west German unions. i.e. if the West Germans do not agree to terms than work is moved East. He also mentioned that for East Germans things have been difficult in three areas:
1. Trust. The GDR was not a very good environment to live in and people did not trust each other. One of his close friends was being spied on by a climbing friend of his that was working for the Stasi. This mistrust of others is still part of the East German culture. This manifests itself in business where East Germans do not want anything in writing. They prefer all agreements to be verbal, therefore harder to be tracked.

2. Savings. East Germans do not have any savings. What this means is that compared to West Germans they are very insecure about their jobs and position. Under communism you did not have to have money saved in case of hard times, like you do in a capitalist society.

3. Inheritence and inherited money. Similar to number 2 - East Germans do not have family money that the West Germans do.

He was a pretty interesting guy and was very interested in things that were timeless. For example, doors are timeless according to him. His Apple IMac that died completly was not timeless. He got rid of his TV years ago and is now memorizing poetry in his spare time. (Poetry being more timeless than TV)

Visiting Alexandra in Darmstadt

After Leipsig, I took the train to Darmstadt which is near where Alexandra lives. Alexandra is a friend that I met this year while doing the west coast trail.

Getting a hold of Alexandra was a bit complicated. Alexandra was not at home when I called and her parents number her parents did not speak English.

I was able to get the clerk at the phone centre to translate for me and we agreed that I should call back at 8. In the meantime, I went and did my laundry.

When I finished my laundry and got back to the hostel, the hostel clerk asked if I was Sean and when I said yes, she said that she had a funny story to tell. While I was out, Alexandra called for me and the clerks went to go look for the ´Canadian´ (Alex asked for Sean, but they translated that into the Canadian). Anyway, through these translations, they went and accidentally got an Englishman (John) to come and answer the phone. Apparently John and Alexandra talked on the phone for 5 or 10 minutes!

Naturally, later that evening, John, Alexandra and I went out to dinner together.

Matt and Amanda in Leipsig

I did meet Matt from Winnipeg and Amanda from Sacramento while in the Hostel. Amanda and I went to the Bach Museum, the Stasi Museam (German Secret Police) and the GDR museam. The GDR museam was very cool especially considering it was free.

Bach spent his latter years in Leipsig and raised his family there. He was quite prolific. He had 20 kids from two marriages. Bach is now buried in the Altar of the Thomaskilne church in the centre of Leipsig.

Amanda was an interesting person to meet. She is 17 years old and had no money. Because I wanted to go to the Bach museum, I insisted on paying for her. When she left to go to Paris, the hostel woman gave her some free food. At the last second when Matt and I walked her to the train, Matt gave her 5 Euros to buy something to eat.

After Amanda left, Matt and I went to the Auerbachs Keller Restaurant which is famous because it was a favourite of Goethe and is featured in the opening act of Faust. Being halloween night, it seemed to be semi appropriate as there are many paintings of Damocles there.

Leipsig and German hostels

Ok. First it is not pronounced Lip Sig. It is pronounced Lype Sitch. I have had about four people explain to me how it is pronounced and when the g suffix is pronounced as a ch in German. Now you know.

I got to the hostel fairly late. I had planned to go to Berlin but ended up here because I missed the train. This hostel, like the one in Dresden, was primarily occupied by Germans. A couple German families that looked like they were travelling together and a group of german students. That there are ´locals´ in the hostel is something very different to Germany compared to other countries I have visited. In fact, in none of the hostels I have been in to date (man - it has to be over 15 by now) I cannot recall meeting anyone who was staying there that was the same country. Everyone has been from foreign countries and speaking English in the hostel. Here German is much more popular. Alex told me that the Germans invented the hostel concept so that is why it is quite popular with Germans. Because I am actually writing this in the future, I know now that the official hostels are frequented by a higher percentage of Germans than the independent ones.

I think this difference is interesting. Normally I would not think of a hostel as a place to bring a family, however I have seen it done here in Leipsig.

Hello! Having some technical difficulties...

I will post soon...

Saturday, October 30, 2004

Hello from Leipzig (Germany)

I missed my train to Berlin because the trams took longer than expected to get to the station in Dresden. So I took the next train that sounded like it was going somewhere interesting... Leipzig! I guess I'm now 'surfing' with my rail pass.

Hello from Dresden (Germany)

I left Prague yesterday. Still feeling a bit hungover from the "Room 5 on tour" escapades that Kaz, Nigel, Michelle, Korin and I got into while in Prague and then in Chesky Krumlov. We are called "Room 5" because we all met in Room 5 of the Elf hostel in Prague and did a bunch of things (partying, hockey, checsky krumlov, hanging out, frisbee, ultimate, cards and theatre sports) together.

I'm now shifting back to travelling on my own in Dresden, Germany and I'm re-adjusting to the requirement that I make my own mind up about what to do next. I'm thinking of going to Berlin or Munich - assuming I can get a train tonight.

The Neustadt neighbourhood of Dresden is very cool. Tons of young people hanging around in the streets, in and out of the clubs and the ever present Kebap restaurants. Being the hip and happening traveller I went to bed at around 10pm.

I woke up to see that there was a beautiful blonde in the next bed. Nice surprise! She and her friend (behind my head) was in for some sort of hip-hop and jazz fusion concert last night and didn't get in until late. I didn't wake up at all.

Dresden looks like many other European cities with huge old and impressive buildings along the Elbe river. The buildings all look very black, except for the brightly polished copper stars or moons at the end of spires on the buildings.

My ideas for things to see in Germany are: Porsche factory, a chocolate factory (Ritter Sport?), Berlin Wall and perhaps a football game.

Wednesday, October 27, 2004

Hello from Chesky Krumlov

Hello from Chesky Krumlov. I've been here for the last couple days with Koren and Michelle from Canada, Nigel and Mass from England and Kaz from Australia. Yesterday we went and played Ultimate in a park and then charades in an open air stadium. Today I think most of us all all going back to Prague.

No robberies or major incidents to report yet.

Sunday, October 24, 2004

Prague Rocks!

Having a great time in Prague. Last night a ton of people from the hostel went to a five story club with different dance floors on each. Got back home after 5AM.

Today I went to go see a hockey game and 5 others from the hostel wanted to go too, so I arranged the tickets. A great game I think. Petr Nedved (who used to play for the Canucks) scored two goals. The game and the setup was similar to other european games I've seen: cheerleaders, fan sections. Beer was cheap: about $1.10 Canadian for a beer.

I'm going on a trip tomorrow with these 5. I forget what it is called, so I'll have to post that later.

Saturday, October 23, 2004

Hello from Prague! (and train robbery)

Hello from Prague!

Today is an awesome day here. The sun is shining and it is warm enough to wear a T-shirt around town. The city is bigger than I expected and quite beautiful. I went and saw St. Basil's cathedral and went up the Petrinska Rozhledra Tower which are separated by a beautiful Mala Strana park.

The tourists in town are very different than the ones encountered before. Much more fashionable and smell good. Probably alot of honeymooners. And people with oversize sunglasses.

Last night I took the night train to get here. The lonely planet and some other tourists warned about stories of the cabins being filled with sleeping gas and thieves rifling through posessions. Some people suggested that it happened mostly on the Polish side of the border.

Anyway, when I got to my cabin, I met a Czech there named Looba who was returning from a week of work at his companies division in Poland. He had not heard of these gassings, but this was his first week on the train. We did lock the room up and in fact I almost fell out of my top bunk when trying to open it in the middle of the night when the customs guy came to check our passports.

I was surprised that at 6:30 this morning that the conductor opened our door and was asking for our passports and wallets. Our cabin had been broken into! Looba's jacket was missing. I did not notice any of my possessions missing. Looba showed me in the door where they had separated the rubber seals so that they could get access to the chain. I don't think we were gassed, I think the theives opened up the door quickly and snatched the first small, good thing they could find which was his jacket (and fortunately for me - not my daypack or pants which was in the corner above my head).

The conducter did recover his jacket with Looba's ID, but his cash was gone. About 150 CDN worth of Polish currency. I felt bad and Looba wasn't too upset but he may have been in shock. It was nice and a bit surprising to me that they only took his cash. If it had happened to me, I wouldn't have minded the cash being gone as much as my passort and recently re-aquired ATM card (thanks to my Dad who was able to pick one up from CIBC and Fedex to me in Warsaw).

I had heard that people have used belts as additional protection to try and keep the cabins closed on Russian trains. I think on my next night train, I'm doing something else (like a combo lock or small bike chain or alarm) that should slow the thieves down enough to get the attention of the car attendant. The conductor told Looba that there are gangs operating on these trains and trains to Bratislava (I think it was Bratislava) and that this usually happens once a day.

I met a couple English guys (Nigel and Mara) this morning and we may be going to go see a hockey game together tomorrow. They originally were going to go see a soccer game, but are now keen on hockey - they just need to make a final decision on whether or not to spend the extra day here. I met a couple Aussies last night who recommened a two day tour out and around Prague, so I may do that on Monday.

Thursday, October 21, 2004

tomorrow's plan

Probably going to the Tratras mountain range tomorrow with Amelie and Eric. After that, Prague or Slovania!

Went to Auschwitz today

Today I went to Auschwitz with Eric and Amelie: A couple new Canadian friends from Montreal that I met last night at the hostel.

My expectation was that it would be a couple buildings on a site somewhere near a town.

Actually, it (there are actually 3 Auschwitz sites) is quite huge with over 400 buildings not including the set of gas chambers, crematoriums and ash pits.

The size of the compounds was the biggest surprise for me. One site was reported to be holding 100,000 people at one location and it looks plausible based on the size of this site.

Other than that, the following had the biggest impacts:
1. The layout maps of the gas chamber which showed the engineering and design that went into doing such evil as efficiently as possible. i.e. the staging areas where the victims would strip their clothes, the gas chamber, the area where they would recover gold fillings etc, the crematoriums and the ash pits formed a bit of a pipeline so that they could process up to 1000 people this way in each of their facilities (4 in parallel at the Birkenaw site.)

2. The Nazi picture which showed the rows of crematoriums that were inside the execution chambers. The chambers have been destroyed somewhat, but the Nazi's kept pictures of the facilities which show vivid details of their facilities.

3. The two ton collection collection of women's hair in the museum. Basically there is a huge 30 foot long by 10 foot high pile of hair behind glass (and preserved with what smells like mothballs) on display. This hair was used to create fabric to support the Reich. There was also a sign which indicated that they have tested the hair and it does contain some level of cyanide which supports the notion that it came from people killed within the gas chambers.

4. The collection of people's shoes. There are three mountains of shoes also on display. Some fancy high heels, some childrens shoes, mostly basic black leather shoes.

Visiting the site was strange because I spent alot of the time trying to figure it out. At the start, actually I was trying to find my own evidence. Later, I was trying to sort out what it meant at the time and what a place like this means today. For example, later in the afternoon, the sun came out and Aushwitz actually looked beautiful.

On display in one of the museaums was the following quote from Adolf Hitler: "I freed Germany from the stupid and degrading fallacies of conscience, morality... we will train young people whom the world will tremble. I want young people capable of violence, imperious, relentless, cruel."

Tuesday, October 19, 2004

Going to Auschwitz tomorrow

Sounds weird, eh? I was wondering today if it is appropriate to even visit there.

Usually when I go to a place I go to learn enjoy or celebrate their history or culture. Now this place is a bit different. Would you go?

Monday, October 18, 2004

Hello from Warsaw

Just got into Warsaw this evening. Long bus ride from Villenus, Lithuania to get here.

I'm still working on communication skills. I went to buy a kebab from the local vendor (there are turkish restaurants all over Europe):
* I asked the girl in front of me if she normally has the number 1: shishkebab and she assured me that, yes, this is the number 1 shishkebab restaurant in Warsaw

* I ordered the number 2 item: the super shishkebab, but the guy charged me 14 zlots (about 6 dollars) instead of 7 zlots. I figured out why later when I had a shishkebab in each hand trying to eat them double fisted while walking down the main street.

Friday, October 15, 2004

Communication skills

Since travelling to Russia, I've increased my travelling communication skills.

Scandinavia was too easy. It was easiest to just speak English and most people there could understand you well - their english being far superior to my Norweigian, Swedish or Finnish. In Russia and the Baltics, English is not so well understood so I've learned.

So I've progressed to stage three...

Stage one is:
Speaking English. Looking for English people. Doing charades with the locals.

Stage two is:
More games. Don't just stop at Charades, play Pictionary and do Fill in the blanks!

For example, at the train station in Riga I said "Engleski?" and the clerk said no, then as she went to read her book ... I pulled out my notebook which I had carefully built up a game of fill in the blank mixed with pictionary!

The fill in the blank was stuff I could get from my Europe on a shoe string guide:

e.g. Atiesanas laiks vilciens Riga->Vilinus sodien? ____________
(What time is the train from here to Villenus today?)

And the pictionary part was a two part sketch of a stick man sitting down, then sleeping - used so I could ask for a sleeping bunk or perhaps to proposition someone.

In this case, the lady told me that that train didn't run anymore. While I didn't get what I wanted, it was interesting in two ways. One I got my message across and second... she answered in English.

Stage three:
I don't know if this is stage three or not, as I arrived at this scheme at around the same time as stage two... Anyway, I now have common words written on my left hand. Mostly I use the word thank you alot. "Paldies" in Latvian and "Aciu" in Lithuanian. It works pretty well and some find it funny that I've got it written on my hand.

Alot of the time I think I should be saying sorry, but that isn't in my book. I guess it was not written by a Canadian.

Welcome to Villenus, Lithuania

I arrived in Villenus last night and have spent about a day here. I went to one of the three genocide museums in town this morning, so I can tell I'm getting closer to WWII land. I mentioned before that I thought the Latvians resented the Russian presence more than the German one (perhaps because the German one was much shorter).

For Lithuania I feel that things are a bit more current - that is I feel that there might be more anti-semitic or skin-head activity going on so these museums and other Jewish presence is here to combat it. This is just an impression I get: I may be completly wrong on this.

Anyway, where Latvia was complaining about being occupied by the Russians and Germans, the Lithuanians had the same, plus they were occupied by the Poles at one point as well!

The town of Villenus is a bit like Tallin (blocks of boutique stores separated by pubs, bars, casinos or strip tieze bars) but more spread out. Riga is much more beautiful than Villenus: Any city with canals running through the middle of it like Riga, St. Petersburg and Stockholm makes a pretty city.

Me? I've got a cold so I'm taking it easy today. Tomorrow I'll go to Kaunas in Lithuania or take the long bus to Warsaw.

Sick day in Riga

My last day in Riga was spent in bed and not in a good way. I have cold.

Well anyway, you may be interested to hear that they have Ren and Stimpy, South Park, Punk'd etc in English. Sponge Bob Squarepants can speak Latvian and the Simpsons speak German. Also David Beckham is on every second station complaining about his ribs.

They had that spanish movie "Et tu Madre?" I think that is what it is called on TV too. Which surprised me a bit because it is pretty racy.

Signing Hockey Autographs in Latvia

Almost my last night in Latvia, I travelled to a small town called Ogre to watch the local team play against one of the only two 'real' teams in Latvia.

The rink was very small and the crowd was very local. I heard that Karlis Skrastins and Darby Hendriksons from the NHL were playing so I thought it would be neat to see them.

At one point I decided to poke my camera through a hole in the netting and take a couple pictures. When I looked down, I was surrounded by about 7 ten year old kids. One with long blond hair asked me something in Latvian and I responded with "Engleski?" (Speak english?). They left excitedly only to come back and ask in broken English to see if I had come to see Darby. I said yes and they pointed him out to me as well as Skrastich who was sitting two rows behind me wearing goofy looking cornrows. (At least I assume that was Skrastich - Everyone else had the russian style buzz cuts, so he did stand out a bit).

They were very cute and some had these black marker pens and would crowd the players bench, presumably looking for autographs.

Three of them asked me for my autograph. I don't know why - perhaps they imagined I was some sort of scout from the NHL. So I signed two programs and one picture of Darby Hendrikson "Sean from Canada". I should have written something more personal or funny ("keep your stick on the ice" , "nice game eh?", or something) but I hadn't been asked to sign autographs before and therefore didn't have my own catch phrases ready.

Tuesday, October 12, 2004

Svieki from Riga (Latvia)

Hello from Latvia. I took the bus here from Tallin yesterday noon. The impression I had of Tallin was that it was a pure tourist town, but I don't think that is 100% true. The parts of Estonia and Latvia that I have travelled in so far all appear to be prospering quickly. If my measure of prosperity is accurate.

Well I look at the cars they drive...is that an accurate measure of prosperity???. Anyway everyone drives better cars than me. Same as in Canada, though. Anyway I saw lots of nice Mercedes, SUVs, Volvos, Peugots, Suzukis, Skodas, Dodge Minivans, Mitusubishis, 1 Hummer, Opels, Citroens, Toyotas, Mazdas, Kias, Lexus and Serts on my trip between Tallin and Riga.

The Latvian country side was beautiful. Picture riding along the highway passing reds, yellows and fading green leaves on the trees in front of small quaint single story farm houses in a row. Some leaves shine briliantly as the setting sun breaks through the filter of the trees on the other side of the road. You can see the Gulf of Riga shining through the other side of the trees.

Riga itself is a big flat and pretty city with canals and trees changing their colours. As we enter the outskirts of Riga (still one hour away from the bus stop), you could sense the excitement on the bus.

This morning I went to a Museum of Latvian Occupation which explains the occupation of Latvia by Russian and German forces from 1940s to 1990. What is interesting to me is that there is more resentment towards the Russian occupation than the German one. In fact, when the Germans where invading Latvia during WWII many Latvians welcomed them, hoping that they would help Latvia become independent from Russia.

The city does have Russian and Scandinavian influences. I notice that alot of the women walk arm in arm here (Russian influence), the stores and candy are the same as in Scandinavia (Stockmanns and Narvesi). Also the lineups are very scandinavian: you don't line up in banks or other places. You go to a machine and get a number. When your number comes up, you walk to your till. I had gotten used to this in Sweden/Finland and was shocked - I'd forgotten what to do - when I had to face big lineups in Russian bus depots.

My money situation is better now. I figured out that I can just go to a bank and get cash advances from my Visa card. I thought I needed a PIN to do this, but turns out I was wrong. All I needed to do was pay a 3% commision (less than 2 dollars so I can have 60 dollars cash is a good deal for me right now!) Anyway I'm quite happy that I have some Latvian money. The first thing I did was to buy some candy!

Tonight I'm thinking of going to go see a hockey game here. It means travelling to a small town called Ogre (really!). If so, I need to go catch a train in about 40 minutes. Apparently Karlis Skrastins and Hendrinksons from the NHL are playing for "RIGA 2000" tonight.

Tonight or tomorrow I'm going to Villenus, Lithuania.

Sunday, October 10, 2004

Welcome to Estonia

With a name like Estonia and the fact it is one of the Baltic states, I did not expect much. Well I don't know much and with a name like Estonia, and knowing that it is an East European country, you might expect a bit of a Stone age country. Or at least thats what I guy I know expected.

Anyway, Estonia *TALLIN I should say* is nothing like that. It is very modern, extremely touristy, very well paved and very well kept. You know, when I was in Russia I was begging for some sort of tourist information centre. I never found one there. Well I got my wish. But like most wishes, you have to be careful.

Tallin is way too touristy. I cannot separtate the staged from the authentic. There are 100s of stores like Esprit and Zara. Lots of English restaurants selling English breakfasts and tons of Casinos (there were tons of Casinos in Russia, BTW) and maybe a dozen topless bars. It looks alot like Oslo or another Scandinavian city, but without the high prices. In Oslo, a beer might cost you 10 dollars CDN. Here it is about 2 or 3 dollars.

Outside of one of the English Pubs and/or Casino there was a guy dressed up like an English bobby on the street. I thought about taking a picture of him, but thought that would be embarassing. So I took a picture of an English Taxi that was propped up on a stand around the corner.

When walking back towards the Bobby, there were two cars on the street that had collided. It was a very strange situation. Here you have the scene of an accident, right in front of a fake Bobby. I'm sure the fake Bobby felt a little embarrassed too. Shouldn't he, as he IS in uniform, go do something...

Anyway, this place is too much on the touristy side and I won't be here long. I'll decide tomorrow if I go to Riga in Latvia or head to Germany.